What did you use to lube up the mounts?

 

KY

 

I just did this install the other day and have a few notes.

1. Sway Bar
   I didn't have to remove this. I just undid the mount bolts and let it hang down, you may have to maneuver it around a bit when actually pulling the mounts but you don't have to uninstall the end links and remove it.
2. Exhaust
   I did this entire install without removing any hangers or anything. I did have to use different length extensions to get to the bolts on the rear, and have a single exhaust not a dual.
3. Rear mounts
   The gas tank gets in the way of a deep socket or much of anything larger than a shallow socket and ratchet or a wrench on two of the bolts, the rest are simple. Same with the 19mm mount nut, i just had to use a wrench since i didn't have a 19mm shallow socket.
4. Front Mounts
   This is WAY easier if you just leave the mounts bolted to the car and remove the brackets. Hard to explain, but if you loosen the 19mm nut on the front of the mounts, then remove the two bolts holding Mount A (labeled in the diagram below) then you can just slide the backets back and put the collars on. The reason for doing it this way instead of pulling the mounts off the car is that the exhaust/other stuff blocks those bolts and its just easier/faster to take the mount off.

 

Sorry, forgot to write my impressions on how it feels. I only got to drive it for a short while since, but I can feel rev-matching WAY more, if i don't get it just right the car jerks easier.

I've read a lot on people complaining about a shudder in the car at low speeds when you don't give it enough gas, and i noticed a drastic decrease in that since the install. I didn't have broken mounts before either, so this may help with that.

No night/day handling or power difference that i noticed in the tiny bit of driving i did, granted nothing at the track though. Mostly, i just feel much more "connected" and able to read the throttle response, which is great. Worth the money for them for sure.

 

i read in some places about a clunking noise on acceleration. was this issued ever solved?

 

mine are still clucking away.

 

I haven't seen this. Granted I've only driven about 100 miles on them now, but I haven't noticed and drawbacks yet.

 

My eXediums have been in for a couple hundred miles and they're great so far, no odd noises.
They made a big difference when going from full throttle to part throttle, they got rid of the weird jerkiness that I was experiencing.

 

I realize I'm resurrecting an old thread. I did this mod on my car last night and wanted to post another "version" of this DIY. I have 2008 AP2 with stock exhaust with Eibach rear sway bar.

Rear Mount:
1. Remove the four rear exhaust hangers ( 2 on each side).

2. Remove the rear sway bar brackets.
3. Disconnect the RSB endlink. *Note that I tried to remove the mounts without this step but there just wasn't enough wiggle room. This maybe due to how much thicker my Eibach rear sway bars are compared to stock.
4. Jack up the rear differential from the "jacking point" to take the load off of the mounts.
5. Take the middle 19mm nut out.
6. Take the 4 smaller surrounding bolts out. *Swivel extension needed.
7. Repeat 5 and 6 for the right side.
8. Lower the Jack to let the differential droop. You will have to play with the height in order to wiggle the mounts out.
9. Install the collars the mounts.
10. Raise the jack and reinstall the mounts and collars installed.
11. Finger tighten the middle nut.
12. Play with the jack height in order to be able to bolt (atleast) one of the 4 nuts. Note that once you get the jack in the "sweet spot", the rest of the 3 bolts should tighten with just your fingers.

Front Mount:
1. Put a jack underneath the exhaust to support it. Remove the exhaust hanger next to the front right mount(passenger side). Move the exhaust to the side as much as possible.

2. Remove the rear crossbar. This is optional but it allowed so much more room to work.
3. Take the middle 19mm nut out.
4. Loosen the two bolts on the differential mount bracket to about 2 inches or more out. * Swivel extension needed.
5. Take out the two bolts on the differential mount itself.
6. With step 4 done, this will allow you to tilt the bracket and simultaneously twist the diff mount off of it.
*Note that my first attempt was to just remove the differential mount bracket completely off and do it that way. It worked however, when I went back to tighten the two bolts on the bracket to reinstall it, I could not align the two bolts back. I used a pry bar in an attempt to align the holes but I just ended up slightly cross threading the rear bolt and could not get the front bolt in at all.
7. Install the collars on the mount.
8. Wiggle the mount back in the same manner used to wiggle it out.
9. Tighten the middle 19mm nut.
10. Tighten the two bolts on the mount.
11. Tighten the two bolts on the mount bracket.
12. The left side (driver side) is pretty much the same procedure but you have to take Evap Canister cover and loosen the brackets in order to have enough room to get to the two mount bolts out.


To finish the installation:
1. With the exhaust and rear sway bars still loose, go back to the rear mount and torque all the bolts to spec. Do the same to the fronts.
2. Reinstall the rear crossbar.
3. Bolt the evap canister and its cover back in.
4. Bolt the RSB back on. Reinstall the endlinks.
5. Reinstall the exhaust hangers.