Headers or VAFC
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,724
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From: CT
just leave everything at zero. thats base because all youre really doing is fine tuning with the afc. its not like your car is running bad or anything right now your pretty much stock. meaning intake and exhaust dont change a/f that much
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by CrankDatVtec,Jan 11 2008, 06:11 AM
i obviously know we have one header..Does it really bother you so much you guys have to post 152346 reply's mentioning this. It must be the new cool thing fan boys are doing.
I will be taking the VAFC2 to the DYNO some time next week, as for installation I'll be doing it myself. I have a solder and everything else I'll require, It wont be the first time I install one so im pretty confident.
I just need some base AP2 settings, I dont plan on lowering VTEC under 5,400.
I will be taking the VAFC2 to the DYNO some time next week, as for installation I'll be doing it myself. I have a solder and everything else I'll require, It wont be the first time I install one so im pretty confident.
I just need some base AP2 settings, I dont plan on lowering VTEC under 5,400.
I have been seeing this alot too. I still say headers most of the time though. My car may only have 1 header but there are a number of HEADERS to choose from. If I ask a question about headers that doesn't mean that I think that I have more then one, it just means that there is more then 1 type/brand header I could buy/install.
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 31,070
Likes: 566
I've been reading the post to this point and felt there is a bit of confusion regarding some of the aspects of tuning with a Vafc, and thought I would help clear some things up for you guys and also share my personal experience with you. This is some of what I have learned
Closed loop or "wide throttle" is where you can affect your ECU via Vafc without reset, but this doesn't mean you have to be at WOT. You have two % setting points that monitor your throttle position, the VAFC adjust your fuel settings to this percentage, establish how far you have to push the throttle to go from partial (open loop) to closed loop which could be less then half throttle if you want. Tuning to this is really where you can maximize your gains throughout the power band and without worrie of resetting your computer.
You can also adjust partial throttle or known as "narrow throttle" for much better response characteristics and bottom end tq where are cars really need, these settings slowly start to diminish back to stock after about a week. I utilize this as well because narrow throttle makes such a noticeable difference on my rich running 01, but I do not ever reset the ecu. When you reset the ecu, the car runs lean partial and WOT for several days before it learns and centers the proper stock afr again. When your car is tuned to a leaner setting on the VAFC for performance, the ECU from being reset is also now running leaner, so you are compiling double lean conditions. DO NOT RE SET YOUR ECU WILE UTILIZING VAFC ADJUSTMENTS.
Tune for narrow throttle, but instead of resetting the ecu, just adjust your narrow throttle settings back to 0 for a few days on the VAFC, let your ecu relearn back to stock and then re adjust cutting fuel again. You cannot utilize your full tuning potential such as this for example without an on board wide band a/f monitor and adjust yourself on the fly. You need realtime monitoring of your afr or you run the risk of the very least not maximizing your performance and at the most, burn a piston.
The only way to safely and fully learn and maximize a VAFC is to invest in utilizing a wide band afr in the car and learn to tune it yourself to the a/f ratio you need and want. A Dyno is good to get things started and get a couple base runs, establish where your car runs best ie: 13.1 -13.7) These can fluctuate daily depending on the temperature and moisture content that day, so making adjustments on the fly is very important for this reason as well and cannot be done without a Wide band afr monitor.
Just because you tune it to 13.3 on the dyno one day doesn't mean it will stay there from then on, they will just be a new center point for the conditions that you tuned for that particular day. Outside conditions will change your AFR. I make adjustments to my Vafc regularly to maximize the proper ratios. On hot day your car will run richer, on a cool day it will run leaner. Getting it tuned and left alone is not the best idea and will certainly not maximize your full power potential.
Hope this helps some of you guys get some more clarification on some of the tuning and VAFC mistery. peace
Closed loop or "wide throttle" is where you can affect your ECU via Vafc without reset, but this doesn't mean you have to be at WOT. You have two % setting points that monitor your throttle position, the VAFC adjust your fuel settings to this percentage, establish how far you have to push the throttle to go from partial (open loop) to closed loop which could be less then half throttle if you want. Tuning to this is really where you can maximize your gains throughout the power band and without worrie of resetting your computer.
You can also adjust partial throttle or known as "narrow throttle" for much better response characteristics and bottom end tq where are cars really need, these settings slowly start to diminish back to stock after about a week. I utilize this as well because narrow throttle makes such a noticeable difference on my rich running 01, but I do not ever reset the ecu. When you reset the ecu, the car runs lean partial and WOT for several days before it learns and centers the proper stock afr again. When your car is tuned to a leaner setting on the VAFC for performance, the ECU from being reset is also now running leaner, so you are compiling double lean conditions. DO NOT RE SET YOUR ECU WILE UTILIZING VAFC ADJUSTMENTS.
Tune for narrow throttle, but instead of resetting the ecu, just adjust your narrow throttle settings back to 0 for a few days on the VAFC, let your ecu relearn back to stock and then re adjust cutting fuel again. You cannot utilize your full tuning potential such as this for example without an on board wide band a/f monitor and adjust yourself on the fly. You need realtime monitoring of your afr or you run the risk of the very least not maximizing your performance and at the most, burn a piston.
The only way to safely and fully learn and maximize a VAFC is to invest in utilizing a wide band afr in the car and learn to tune it yourself to the a/f ratio you need and want. A Dyno is good to get things started and get a couple base runs, establish where your car runs best ie: 13.1 -13.7) These can fluctuate daily depending on the temperature and moisture content that day, so making adjustments on the fly is very important for this reason as well and cannot be done without a Wide band afr monitor.
Just because you tune it to 13.3 on the dyno one day doesn't mean it will stay there from then on, they will just be a new center point for the conditions that you tuned for that particular day. Outside conditions will change your AFR. I make adjustments to my Vafc regularly to maximize the proper ratios. On hot day your car will run richer, on a cool day it will run leaner. Getting it tuned and left alone is not the best idea and will certainly not maximize your full power potential.
Hope this helps some of you guys get some more clarification on some of the tuning and VAFC mistery. peace
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 21,333
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From: Woodbine, GA
No tuning yet. I will be getting my vafc tuned at the end of the month. I don't think it is much louder than stock, but then again I always have my stereo blaring. There are no heat shield tabs but you can get it jet hot coated to take care of the heat issue.
