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Installing new (used) header

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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #11  
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You guys are awesome, thanks a ton I'll just stop by my local dealership, hopefully they have them. I doubt the cost savings of majestic would make sense on bolts and a gasket
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #12  
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I didn't replace any of my bolts or gaskets. They are easy to replace later if there is a leak, so I would jjust install the thing using the original parts. I installed my T1R header from the top, and it just dropped right in with ease. I'm not familiar with the CT 4-1, so it could require a full engine removal for all I know.

I don't think you should worry about heat management at all if you have a decent CAI. Good luck!
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by gernby,Aug 12 2010, 08:47 AM
I didn't replace any of my bolts or gaskets. They are easy to replace later if there is a leak, so I would jjust install the thing using the original parts. I installed my T1R header from the top, and it just dropped right in with ease. I'm not familiar with the CT 4-1, so it could require a full engine removal for all I know.

I don't think you should worry about heat management at all if you have a decent CAI. Good luck!
Thanks man! I don't have jacks and the like, I'll be in my roommates shop which isn't the easiest to get time to get into. I'd much rather be prepared than have a car that isn't running on a Sunday and have to get to work the next day I mean, the gasket I might as well change (why not right?) and... maybe I'll have some extra bolts laying around *shrug*. I figure worst case, I have like 15$ in nonsense laying around for a rainy day, or a local forum member in need
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #14  
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I installed my PLM from the bottom, jacking up the passenger side about 2 inches.

I would change the gasket between the exhaust and the head.

The longest part of my install was the head shields. Somehow the bolts were seized and rusted to the header. Others were also cross threaded, but the previous owner had no mods to the car what so ever... something to do with a hot header then cooling cycles?

Good luck and take your time. Remember to have a tire under the frame rail.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by gernby,Aug 12 2010, 08:47 AM
I don't think you should worry about heat management at all if you have a decent CAI. Good luck!
The intake sucking in cold air is only half the battle. Even with a CAI you'll still be sucking in hotter than ambient air temperature. Why? Heat soak. YES heat soak happens when the car's moving. The header contributes to this the most, especially if it doesn't have a heat shield, a coated or a wrap.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 12:09 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by H22toF20,Aug 12 2010, 11:59 PM
The intake sucking in cold air is only half the battle. Even with a CAI you'll still be sucking in hotter than ambient air temperature. Why? Heat soak. YES heat soak happens when the car's moving. The header contributes to this the most, especially if it doesn't have a heat shield, a coated or a wrap.
Gernby knows all about that
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 03:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by H22toF20,Aug 12 2010, 11:59 PM
The intake sucking in cold air is only half the battle. Even with a CAI you'll still be sucking in hotter than ambient air temperature. Why? Heat soak. YES heat soak happens when the car's moving. The header contributes to this the most, especially if it doesn't have a heat shield, a coated or a wrap.
Ok
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 06:05 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by H22toF20,Aug 13 2010, 02:59 AM
The intake sucking in cold air is only half the battle. Even with a CAI you'll still be sucking in hotter than ambient air temperature. Why? Heat soak. YES heat soak happens when the car's moving. The header contributes to this the most, especially if it doesn't have a heat shield, a coated or a wrap.
I actually have to disagree with this. I think the header contributes very little to heat soak. I've done MANY heat soak tests during my "project", and swapping out my OEM header with an unsheilded, unwrapped, uncoated, thin-walled header made no noticeable change in heat soak or cool down.

My standard heat soak test is to drive on the highway until I reach normal operating temperature, then start a FlashPro datalog, then pull into a parking lot to idle for 5 minutes, then get back on the highway and continue datalogging for several minutes. Ever since I've had my CAI, my IAT's have dropped almost all the way back down within a minute.

The only problem with my test is that the IAT sensor on the '06+ is located in the intake tube, not in the intake manifold as it is on '00-'05 models. However, I haven't noticed any significant changes in power or AFR from the datalogs to show that heat soak sticks around for more than a minute either.

Of course, I also have a Hondata intake manifold gasket, which helps a lot, but that's just insulating the manifold from the head, which is what I believe to be the BIG heat soak contributor.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 06:10 AM
  #19  
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Gernby is that using the OEM heatshield or ?
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 06:58 AM
  #20  
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I used the OEM heatshield with the OEM header, but my T1R header has no heatshield at all.
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