Intake Air Temps
TL;DR
Can you post some of your IAT's for some comparison? thanks
Backstory:
For years I have been curious about intake air temperatures and how it effects our cars. I have tried various intakes; from COTS to Frankenstein.
Main Goal:
+HP, eliminate heat-soak
Secondary Goal:
increase MPG, increase engine resiliency / life expectancy
Sources:
Manifold Gasket Install
Official s2ki Intake Thread
Current Setup:
[attachment=30103
SC00018.png]
[attachment=30104
SC00022.png]
[attachment=30105
SC00024.png]
[attachment=30106
SC00025.png]
Logged data:
Torque Log data - Day 1 *interactive graphs
Torque Log data - Day 2 *interactive graphs
Average Ambient = 65F
Average IAT = 120F
I have a few questions for all of you; as well as some minor discoveries I'd like to share.
1. Can any of you provide me with some raw IAT numbers w/ your intake setup? (including OEM air box)
2. I am still establishing a baseline for my numbers before I start to make some adjustments. However, I am beginning to see a trend. Once the manifold is soaked (via covection from the head or underhood temps), it has a tremendously hard time recovering.
3. RPM vs MPH. RPMs have substantially more effect on cooling than MPH does. For obvious reasons, the more cold air being sucked into the piping/manifold, the faster it 'cools'.
What's next:
--Matt
Can you post some of your IAT's for some comparison? thanks
Backstory:
For years I have been curious about intake air temperatures and how it effects our cars. I have tried various intakes; from COTS to Frankenstein.
Main Goal:
+HP, eliminate heat-soak
Secondary Goal:
increase MPG, increase engine resiliency / life expectancy
Sources:
Manifold Gasket Install
Official s2ki Intake Thread
Current Setup:
[attachment=30103
SC00018.png][attachment=30104
SC00022.png][attachment=30105
SC00024.png][attachment=30106
SC00025.png]Logged data:
Torque Log data - Day 1 *interactive graphs
Torque Log data - Day 2 *interactive graphs
Average Ambient = 65F
Average IAT = 120F
I have a few questions for all of you; as well as some minor discoveries I'd like to share.
1. Can any of you provide me with some raw IAT numbers w/ your intake setup? (including OEM air box)
2. I am still establishing a baseline for my numbers before I start to make some adjustments. However, I am beginning to see a trend. Once the manifold is soaked (via covection from the head or underhood temps), it has a tremendously hard time recovering.
3. RPM vs MPH. RPMs have substantially more effect on cooling than MPH does. For obvious reasons, the more cold air being sucked into the piping/manifold, the faster it 'cools'.
What's next:
- I am going to do more data logging to establish more baseline numbers
- Close up the hood vents
- Install Heat Shield
- re-install my remote temp sensor to gather under-hood temps
- purchase + install Hondata gasket
- Do more research on how IAT's relate to Timing Adjustments made by the ECU
--Matt
curious for what the research finds. It would be great to log temps and then the differences when you cancel out all the coolant that runs through the IM.
I am running the fipk+gold foil+coolant lines cancelled. Ambient temperature is obviously the biggest factor and should always be mentioned when talking any changes in iat readings. From what Ive seen, bypassing the coolant lines will let the IM temp clear out faster and you can actually rest your hand on it after a drive. (highly subjective and hard to quantize I know)
I am running the fipk+gold foil+coolant lines cancelled. Ambient temperature is obviously the biggest factor and should always be mentioned when talking any changes in iat readings. From what Ive seen, bypassing the coolant lines will let the IM temp clear out faster and you can actually rest your hand on it after a drive. (highly subjective and hard to quantize I know)
With aem v2 cai, hondata img, 68mm tb with no coolant provisions I average about 40 to 45celcius (104F in street driving).
WOT, temps drop about 10 to 15 degrees probably to 30C or actual ambient air (measured by iat at manifold) by the time I get to redline.
It's probably even lower now that socal is getting colder this last weekend.
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
WOT, temps drop about 10 to 15 degrees probably to 30C or actual ambient air (measured by iat at manifold) by the time I get to redline.
It's probably even lower now that socal is getting colder this last weekend.
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
curious for what the research finds. It would be great to log temps and then the differences when you cancel out all the coolant that runs through the IM.
I am running the fipk+gold foil+coolant lines cancelled. Ambient temperature is obviously the biggest factor and should always be mentioned when talking any changes in iat readings. From what Ive seen, bypassing the coolant lines will let the IM temp clear out faster and you can actually rest your hand on it after a drive. (highly subjective and hard to quantize I know)
I am running the fipk+gold foil+coolant lines cancelled. Ambient temperature is obviously the biggest factor and should always be mentioned when talking any changes in iat readings. From what Ive seen, bypassing the coolant lines will let the IM temp clear out faster and you can actually rest your hand on it after a drive. (highly subjective and hard to quantize I know)
With aem v2 cai, hondata img, 68mm tb with no coolant provisions I average about 40 to 45celcius (104F in street driving).
WOT, temps drop about 10 to 15 degrees probably to 30C or actual ambient air (measured by iat at manifold) by the time I get to redline.
It's probably even lower now that socal is getting colder this last weekend.
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
WOT, temps drop about 10 to 15 degrees probably to 30C or actual ambient air (measured by iat at manifold) by the time I get to redline.
It's probably even lower now that socal is getting colder this last weekend.
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
The CAI helps the most. I should also mention that driving in stop and go/socal urban the MEASURED benefit of cold air intake isn't very different compared to a shortram or stock even if you cut holes in the bumper. The air moves too slowly through the tubes and is heated by the engine bay and manifold.
When you are WOT (throttle plate fully open) the MEASURED temperature decreases rapidly since cold air rushes into the engine before it has a chance to heat up.
The hondata IMG helps by lowering the temperature max like 5 to 10C. Usually don't go over 50C in heavy traffic. It also greatly slows the intake temp from rising after doing a WOT run.
Both products are great.
I probably have some old logs that show iat during a wot pull on the street
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
When you are WOT (throttle plate fully open) the MEASURED temperature decreases rapidly since cold air rushes into the engine before it has a chance to heat up.
The hondata IMG helps by lowering the temperature max like 5 to 10C. Usually don't go over 50C in heavy traffic. It also greatly slows the intake temp from rising after doing a WOT run.
Both products are great.
I probably have some old logs that show iat during a wot pull on the street
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
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