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I read some years ago a very well put together analysis someone did online. I don't have a link. It was very convincing.
But I will say if you are doing things like regular oil analysis, and particulates, especially things like silicon (sand, grit) are within acceptable levels, you needn't be concerned.
That's a fair statement. It does make sense to me that to increase flow one would need to reduce restriction. Whether K&N is worth it personally would then depend on your driving environment (dirt roads or desert highways/daily driving). A routine oil analysis would likely provide some solid info. I personally am torn about if I will go full FIPK, kn drop in, or remain stock. I'll likely try all three and see what I enjoy the most. Keep my parts so I can always go back to stock.
With a cooling plate you can divert even more cool air directly to the FIPK and help with heat soak in the summer. Just be sure to cut a small area out of your stock plastic radiator cover housing so air is channeled through it. Otherwise the cooling plate is basically all for looks.
And this filter wrap will help keep it cleaner longer, prolonging required maintenance. It also makes it look better IMO.
If you want a really cheap alternative, use pantyhose. I'm not joking. The weave/mesh is perfect for max breathing wile eliminating all the sand and particles that get channeled off the road into the box/filter.
The stock air filter filters better than a K&N. If you took the stock air filter and replaced it with a K&N you won't get any more hp, if the stock filter lets in all the air the engine needs or wants(it does even at 90,000 miles) a filter that flows more cfm won't do anything but last longer before it does put a restriction on the cfm's. How many miles do you want before you change out/clean the filter? https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ilter-1163927/
You can't take off the stock intake, put on an aftermarket intake and say that the air filter gave you the hp. Some intakes make hp, most lose hp. That has been shown on this site and other S2000 sites for years now.
If someone on here can show me how a filter that causes no restriction cost the engine hp I'd like to hear your theory on that.
I'm getting curious about air filter restriction. What's the rating of the gauge in your old photo? I see 10" H20 and 25". 25" seems like a lot of suction.
Chuck S,
25" is for a diesel engine, I would only take a gas engine up to 15" at most. I was going to change out the filter when it got to 11" in the S but after 90k miles it still wasn't showing any restriction but it had been in the car for six years and that is as long as I will run a filter like the type the S uses. My gauge when it reads a restriction stays there until I reset it, and it does read 8" with the air filter lid on the air box. But take the lid off and the restriction goes away. You can fix this with a small air box mod.
I wish I had a junk hood that I could cut a (6")hole in and seal it to the top of the stock air box(with a hole in the lid) and seal it to the bottom of the hood, attach a hood scoop and see if I can get positive pressure at speed.
I guess it would look like an old Nissan that had the air scoop off to the side. I'm an old hot rodder and I like function over form. My wife and I had a show car and that was form over function, not a fun car to drive and if you drove it the way it looked like you should drive it you were taking your life in your hands. Needless to say that car was never push past first gear(could lift the front end any time I wated to) and that was the last of any show cars for us.
We might be in our 60's but we like to have fun in our cars and the S with it's flaws is still one of the best cars to take on a fun drive be it at a track or a 13 state 8000+ mile drive.
Oh, to your ? My gauge stops at 8", 11", 15", 22" and 25"
Is yours a threaded connector or press-in with a grommet? Looks like I can get 10" only from K&N. Everything else is at least 20". The K&N gauge appears to be the discontinued WIX mode (at less cost than what K&N wants).
Is yours a threaded connector or press-in with a grommet? Looks like I can get 10" only from K&N. Everything else is at least 20". The K&N gauge appears to be the discontinued WIX mode (at less cost than what K&N wants).
Is yours a threaded connector or press-in with a grommet? Looks like I can get 10" only from K&N. Everything else is at least 20". The K&N gauge appears to be the discontinued WIX mode (at less cost than what K&N wants).
-- Chuck
It's a press in, but on our '06 without that air tube that the earlier models had that is attached to the intake tube , I used that round ridge to help support the gauge. What I did was I put a very short piece of rubber fuel hose(less than 1/2" long) that fit that hole on our intake and when placed fully inserted only one nipple stuck through to the intake tube. My gauge is very stable and will not move, that round ridge with the added fuel hose really keeps the gauge stationary. Also on the inside of the intake tube there is a small ridge that keeps that one nipple from disrupting the flow of the air in the tube. I'll bet most have not looked inside of the intake tube to know what it even looks like. I had no idea that there was a ridge inside of the intake tube till I put this ristriction gauge on our S
My gauge is made by Filter Minder, they are the same Co. that made all the gauges that my over the road trucks had. I always said if its good enough for my $150k truck, it's good enough for my under 50k cars.
01-21-2019, 07:20 AM
. I'm not joking. The weave/mesh is perfect for max breathing wile eliminating all the sand and particles that get channeled off the road into the box/filter.
