Newbie using F20C in a Lakester
#1
Newbie using F20C in a Lakester
I am UK based, building a Lakester (intended for Bonneville in 2020 or 2021) and will be competing in a N/A class - I have opted for the F20C motor and box (it will be rear engined) and will be making mods for top end power.
It is early days for the build; I have just kick started the head work, mocked up the engine and box in the chassis and started collecting parts. ITBs are on order. The body of the Lakester is 24" at its widest point (wheels are in the breeze) so its going to get tight.
I need to find my way around this forum as I am sure 99% of what I dont know will have been dealt with already so if I do post something that is bleedingly obvious to experienced S2000 folks please forgive me.
First question; I will not be running the Honda ECU so the alternator causes me a problem - it has a 4 pin pug and I gather the stock ECU 'manages it' - is there a known simple bolt on replacement that is more basic - i.e. IGN on, power via ign light to alternator to excite it, engine on, starts charging battery, feedback switches ign light off?
Thanks
It is early days for the build; I have just kick started the head work, mocked up the engine and box in the chassis and started collecting parts. ITBs are on order. The body of the Lakester is 24" at its widest point (wheels are in the breeze) so its going to get tight.
I need to find my way around this forum as I am sure 99% of what I dont know will have been dealt with already so if I do post something that is bleedingly obvious to experienced S2000 folks please forgive me.
First question; I will not be running the Honda ECU so the alternator causes me a problem - it has a 4 pin pug and I gather the stock ECU 'manages it' - is there a known simple bolt on replacement that is more basic - i.e. IGN on, power via ign light to alternator to excite it, engine on, starts charging battery, feedback switches ign light off?
Thanks
#2
Hello,
Some Super 7 kit guys have asked similar questions.
Usually the ALT is wiring using just the Blk/Yellow wiring and sometimes the Blue/White lamp wiring , along with the obvious battery wiring. That's all you should need .
Some Super 7 kit guys have asked similar questions.
Usually the ALT is wiring using just the Blk/Yellow wiring and sometimes the Blue/White lamp wiring , along with the obvious battery wiring. That's all you should need .
The following users liked this post:
Lemming Motors (01-03-2019)
#3
Thanks tehlonz
I dont have an S2000 wiring diag - is there a colour one available?
I assume the Blk/Yellow is 12 volt supply to the alternator to energise it and the Blue/White is an output dash lamp - or put another way, it does not energise through the dash lamp like a normal single wire internal rectifier alternator.
I dont have an S2000 wiring diag - is there a colour one available?
I assume the Blk/Yellow is 12 volt supply to the alternator to energise it and the Blue/White is an output dash lamp - or put another way, it does not energise through the dash lamp like a normal single wire internal rectifier alternator.
#4
Thanks tehlonz
I dont have an S2000 wiring diag - is there a colour one available?
I assume the Blk/Yellow is 12 volt supply to the alternator to energise it and the Blue/White is an output dash lamp - or put another way, it does not energise through the dash lamp like a normal single wire internal rectifier alternator.
I dont have an S2000 wiring diag - is there a colour one available?
I assume the Blk/Yellow is 12 volt supply to the alternator to energise it and the Blue/White is an output dash lamp - or put another way, it does not energise through the dash lamp like a normal single wire internal rectifier alternator.
The following users liked this post:
Lemming Motors (01-07-2019)
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#8
Hi Mike
Apologies for the radio silence. We relocated to NZ, redundancy, new job, started a new house build - I think that's enough excuses.
The Lakester progresses slowly- the engine is finally being assembled (bespoke head, AT Power ITB's, HyTech headers) and I just purchased a Link ECU popular here in NZ so well supported, an array of sensors and am starting to research that from a wiring point of view.
I am about a third of the way through the body work (bespoke fibreglass) and need to revisit some of the suspension decisions (like mounting the steering rack upside down!).
John
Apologies for the radio silence. We relocated to NZ, redundancy, new job, started a new house build - I think that's enough excuses.
The Lakester progresses slowly- the engine is finally being assembled (bespoke head, AT Power ITB's, HyTech headers) and I just purchased a Link ECU popular here in NZ so well supported, an array of sensors and am starting to research that from a wiring point of view.
I am about a third of the way through the body work (bespoke fibreglass) and need to revisit some of the suspension decisions (like mounting the steering rack upside down!).
John
#9
To back track a little: the Bonneville class is naturally aspirated on gas (probably VP Fuels C12). The compression will be increased, the cams are bespoke as the operating range is around 4,500 (push start,1st should be good to 60mph) through 10,000 rpm. The radiator is in a water tank (no through air) with iced water cooling for induction air and fuel (Bonneville gets hot).
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