Dead Serious

[quote name='limited976' timestamp='1421349877' ]

Front bushings has just been replaced with SPOON's.
I was going to the alignment and it seemed my cambeer couldn't be adjusted at de rear since the bolt is stuck,
wich mean my upper bushings are stuck + other upper bushing. Lower bushings are fine.

Should I replaced them with poly? Or are these available OEM?
[/quote]
What is your budget? What do you use your car for? What are the driving conditions there? You need to post this info so we can help you.

limited976

Budget is not an issue. It has to be good and lasting.
I only do 4000 miles / year, mostly fast cornering (street-use) and in the future tracking for fun.. Kw VAR3 suspension rite now.

So, the rear the ones to adjust the camber/caster are these ones I suppose?
Tought it were the upper one but it are indeed the lower arms. (And 1 small bar at te top)

Mugens are these ones ?

1x 52353-XGS -S0N0 (2 bushings)
2x 52366-XGS -S0N0 (4 bushings?)

Spoon are these ones ?



1x 52353-AP1-000 (2 bushings)
2x 52366-AP1-000 (4 bushings?)

Or are the front rear bushing not replacable? (in the picture only nr.5 is marked in the back..?)
Or do I only need 1x 52366-AP1-000/52366-XGS -S0N0

I live in Belgium (shipment to belgium/europe, so a shop from the UK should also be fine?)
Thanks for all the help already

Dead Serious

You may be making more trouble of this situation than its worth. I doubt your bushings are in fact bad. If your issue is the seized cam bolt that adjusts the alignment, you can get it appart with any combination of heat, penetrant, and a good mechanic. Or its f@#ked and you need to get it replaced but nothing about a bad cam bolt means you have to replace the bushings.
Im trying to fill in the blanks here......
If this is a performance mod for you and you want to replace what are probably good bushings with better ones just buy the rest of the Spoon bushings to complete your set, especially since your budget is open. I dont have any experience with the Spoon parts but it does appear the rear lower control arm bushing in the forward position is not part of the Spoon or Mugen kits but yours are likely in good shape anyway.

limited976

Ok, thank alot mate, i'll dig into it!

slowd16

You know what size dies you need for this?

Dead Serious

I should have measured. A socket set going up to 30-38mm should get you through most of it. Theres at least one that requires either burning out followed by hammer and punch or sawsall because its two shells pressed from either end with a shoulder on both sides.

charliegq

Hey DS, would you mind lending me your knowledge. This is in regards to the front lca shock bushings. I originally ordered the prothane kit and realized it did not come with the lca shock bushings. I then ordered the energy kit but, with my luck, the kit is missing the shock bushings. I have the inner sleeve but no bushings (es pn#8381/8382).

Unfortunately I have already pressed out the lca shock bushings however the OEM metal shell is still in place. I am having a hard time finding the lca shock bushings. I don't have the time to wait for the place I ordered to remedy the missing bushings as I want to make track day this Saturday. I have been trying to resource from energy suspension but they don't seem to carry the shock bushing 8381/8382 individually. Or, if the do it is under a different pn.

Do you know off hand what the pns, energy or otherwise, for the front lca shock bushings? Will one of prothanes pivot bushing work? I have gone through your list (thank very much btw for pitting that and the dyi together) but no shock bushings mentioned.

Any help is much appreciated,
C

Fokker

Energy suspension doesn't list different part numbers for the shock bushings, they should be part of the front and rear kits. I replaced my shock bushings with HardRace hardened rubber bushings. They're OEM style, so you would have to push out the collars.

esracer

Quick Question. How did you manage to press in the compliance bushings for the front lower control arms. I'm having a hell of a time trying to get that sucker in.

Dead Serious

Due to multiple requests Im posting the compliance bushing install pics and procedure. Im obviously haven't been going back to the garage to take pics. You can always go to my photobucket where all the pics of the install are.

1. Lubricate the ID of the control arm. Prothane's instructions say to not use lubrication on the compliance bushing but I did anyway after having some difficulty. Do not lubricate the bushing in keeping with the direction from Prothane because if you only lube the control arm, most of the grease will squeegee out during the press. I've now done 350 miles and 6 hours on track without noticeable wear but I don't really understand what negative effects the grease causes.
2. Use a press adapter with a big enough hole in it to clear the center section. Use another adapter on top of the first one to accommodate the press rod. I made one from wood since my selection was limited at the time.
3. Attempt the press and once the bushing barely gets in there enough that it wont squish back out due to its own elasticity, release the pressure and adjust the press to favor the side that doesn't want to go.
4. Once the first adapter bottoms out release the press and replace the first adapter with something in the 34mm range to apply pressure on the conical middle section of the bushing. Doing this will smush the bushing past the bottom of the control arm ID in a prolapsing action. Don't press on the center section ever or the bushing could tare where the center meets the conical portion.