Yes, but the Megan / Mugan / Whatever header isn't going to get you past the BMW either...

And at least with driving lessons, you won't spin out trying to pull that maneuver on a banked ramp.

 

IMHO if you want a physical Mod/Part.


1. Gears
2. S/C
3. Turbo


Granted Turbo > S/C
But Turbo = ^$$$$$$

Not sure for the 06+cars.

 

How much would it cost to get 4.77 gears installed, at lets say a local transmission shop, though it may be expensive I would rather them do it then chance damaging my car

 

Yep, just as valid, however nobody on S2ki wants to hear about the "driving school mod" if that were the case we would have about 90% less activity on S2ki so how much fun is that. Its like saying the S is perfect out of the box, or the stock S can handle beyond 99% of all drivers so why mod it, go to "driving school"

Its true to a point, but such a lame cop out when someone is asking direct questions about how to increase the performance. The S is not perfect out of the box, i personally got comfortable pushing its abilities after driving it for a month. And started wanting more after 6. My 01 handles and excel the way I feel it should out f the box now and it is significant over any stock 08 S2000 (Cr or not). There is much room for performance potentual, but no one header or bolt on is going to get you there. You need to be prepared to put together a system of components that work together, not necisarely all from one brand, in fact through added time and research and depending on your goals, you can piece together a better performing custom set up for allot less $$. I sure did.

 

Gears make a really good noticeable improvement in excel response but are best with some power adders. 4.44'S are really what I feel to be the best choice and sweet spot for the S. Too much gearing can actually start to hinder your performance, especially as you increase your engine power. I run an effective ratio of 4.33 and find it to be almost perfect for my power curve. There are more factors involved in gearing a car then some people take into consideration. 4.77's cost the least amount and in my opinion offer you the least benifit to maximizing the factory power curve of the S. But if you are set on these, they are Kia gears and therefor can be had for about $200. You still need to spend another $300 or more to have them installed. Tire sizing can also effect your gearing and can be done for free on your next tire change. I think you have more options for tire sizing with Ap1 16s over the Ap2 17's however and is worth looking into.

 

get the intake and try drive out the potential of ur car before start adding minor stuffs.

 

heres the deal, I am going to buy a $1,000 beater to be my primary car, I have 65k on my '04 and it still looks great, I am going to be keeping it in the garage and slowly mod it, my plan is AEM V2 Intake/header-not sure thinking TODA?/Spugen Exhuast/gears (I want the best option for quick acceleration but not ridiculously high RPMS at 70mph. I'm an airplane guy, I know a lot about planes, cars I know the basics., looking here for some help, I will eventually cough up the money for either a Turbo or SC, probably the Vortech Supercharger. Any advice you guys can give me on the best gears/header would be great. I plan on lowering 1in with Eibach and keep the rims stock for now, I want to get some sort of lip for the front, (going for the sleeper look as of now). So any tips besides driving school(which I would like to check out not sure where to go in NJ) would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys!
Joe

 

[QUOTE=MikeyCB,Jan 9 2008, 01:06 PM]

An intake you could get away with if you don't mind swapping back the factory one every time there's service to be done at the dealer.

 

The Ap2 trans has a better overdrive then an Ap1 so this will help offset your higher gearing, but only to a reasonable point. Cosidering that your going FI later I'm really firm on the 4.44's now. Gears are a big debate topic on this forum so I mentioned tire sizing as an alternative to spending a bunch of money on gears and have no basis for comparison, find out better for yourself whats going to give the efect you want before down the raod regretting your choice, gears are not like an intake where you can just pull it off and get a new one relitivly cheep if you don't like it. gears efect so much of your experience in your car that you want to make the right choice for now and future mods.

There is a gear calculator floating around. I recomend finding it and running some tires options that work on your 17's as a simulation so you know what efective gearing you are trying out with your rear tires, then make a choice. Just get some used or an inexpesive set to try out. For me I found a tire size that works great for my car permenently so I got a good brand and just run it without spending $1000 on gears. This is my 4.33 effective ratio with Azenis 215/45/16's on factory wheels. Toyo T1R makes a 245/35/16 I just found out and am excited about because they are shorter profile yet and wider then my current. More expesive too but these will drop my effective gear ratio further to a 4.48 which should be about perfect. But if for some reason I am not happy with the results then I don't have to feel bad. At this point however I know what efect I will be getting.

Hope that helps give you some insight.

I still run the stock header and am pushing close to 230 to the wheels. Its one of the last mods I feel you can make with the s. Not alot of gain to be had there, avoid spending $1000 for 5hp and tq if you can. Do some other related mods first. look into the fuel tuning. Don't spend the money on a cold air intake unless its forced air from the outside utilizing a cooling plate and or a snorkel. I run the factory box gutted with a KN, it works great abviously and cost me $50 for the filter. I cut out the top portion of the factory radiator plate just under the intake opening to alow fresh are to be directed from to grill to the intake with utilizing a costom made directional forced air peice I fabed from cutting board plastic. If I had some pics I would send them to you. It looks pretty good but functional as hell with no money.

Lightened flywheel is another great mod, 8 pound Aluminum Findanza works awesome, next time you need a cluch this is highly recomended to free up a significant amount of power to the wheels. Great combination with your gears.

Test pipe is another cheep and worthy mod for 5 HP and a little throttle response, though I hate recomending this one because it polutes. Another 5 with a cat back duel and close to 10 with a single. I run a duel Tanabe.

An oil catch can and bypass filter breather removes all chance of oil blowby to your intake charge and increases response and power. You can get a very nice looking generic catch can on Ebay right now for $20 and go to your local schucks for a breather filter for you front vent. This was more noticeable then any intake. I gained better power throught the rpm range. I have yet to do my latest dyno on this mode but I would geustamet close to 10hp was achived.

 

You've been around long enough to read all of the posts of people attempting to get warranty work done, and Honda using any reason at all to avoid providing the warranty work or part. They point at any mod and claim it caused the issue. Comptech may have said that, but I'd love to hear how many people have had warranty work under the hood done with a supercharger installed.