Stroker Kits
nice avatar btw
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 48,203
Likes: 10
From: Lewisville, TX
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Dec 2 2007, 12:54 AM
What was your reasoning to go from a 100% bolt on SC that makes more HP&TQ and cost roughly half as much? Is this a valid question? Though the SC doesn't have the same power curve as stock or the 2.5, was it not trackable for you? Why would you spend more money to downgrade in engine output? People who don't have experience with a supercharger or stroker kit, which are likely 90% of the people on this thread, would like to know. Including myself. I have also reached a point where I have formed an opinion on the matter like several others. I have voiced it. Thank you very much!
I didn't just have a 100% bolt-on sc'er. It was never at stock boost. First install with 7psi pulley equated to 310 whp. After wrecking on the track(road course), I upped the boost, switched to AEM EMS, changed injectors, etc. 372whp. After a spark plug electrode broke off and melted a piston, I got another block, ERL headwork(which is farmed out), 2mm head gasket, and a 3" pulley- 398 whp. Snapping the sc'er belt and blowing a head gasket on the way to the Dragon in '06 was the final straw. Embarrassing C6's and various other machines on the highway was neat... for the first couple of times.
I took the old block that was scored to Inline and had them sleeve/stroke it. I sold the blown head gasket block. I'm only 12:1 CR, so it's very daily drivable- my suspension not so much.
I did laugh at your comment about "should last two years."
You name me ANY engine builder who would offer such a warranty for racing a motor. Just one. Sure, Honda does, but I'm talking about a company that goes beyond what Honda deemed the limit with reliability still at the forefront. Certainly you can see why, with all my background, I would find a 2-yr warranty very attractive. Until you've done, you and everyone else is required to base your opinions on what others have actually done. Until one has done both, opinions and experiences will be biased. I'm guessing I may be the only one. That's nothing against you, that's just how it is.
You wanna know what's fun?
Having folks come up to me after a run session at the track and asking, "You're sc'd/turbo'd, aren't you?" 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,403
Likes: 6
From: DFW, TX
Junky, I think you are taking this thread a little to personally. It honestly had nothing to do with you not knowing the cost.
Trust me, I understand that the cost is very high. In fact, I probably would not have done it if I didn't need a new block. Last year about this time of the year I was pretty much turning my car back to stock. I just wanted to do some bolt ons, a VAFC, some body stuff, suspension stuff. I had gauges previously. A Defi Oil pressure gauge and AEM UEGO...I was uninstalling these gauges. The way I installed the Oil pressure was as shown in DIY posts on the boards, using a brass T-fitting of the stock oil pressure sending area on the block. Well, the t-fitting I used had tapered threads. This was never a problem until removing it. The T-fitting by being tapered had cracked the block, it also stripped all the threads in the block. So, getting this repaired would have cost quite a bit if done right as the motor would need to be removed. A brand new F20 installed was around 6k. To repair this block would have been 2k+ and there was ~80k miles on it already, I really didn't see the point in repairing it. Though if I could go back in time, I would have JB welded that oil pressure sensor into the block and then taken the car to a machine shop or muffler shop and told them to just weld around the sensor then went and traded the car in. At the time though, I didn't see myself running into many problems.
For myself, I needed a new motor. I saw the 2.5 as an awesome opportunity to gain power and have everything I've always wanted out of the S2k. And that is what I have now. For me it was a difference of cost, and really the 2.5 in my position was only 3k more, so I guess that fits in with your 1/3 and where I sort of justified the price.
Now could you relax about the
Trust me, I understand that the cost is very high. In fact, I probably would not have done it if I didn't need a new block. Last year about this time of the year I was pretty much turning my car back to stock. I just wanted to do some bolt ons, a VAFC, some body stuff, suspension stuff. I had gauges previously. A Defi Oil pressure gauge and AEM UEGO...I was uninstalling these gauges. The way I installed the Oil pressure was as shown in DIY posts on the boards, using a brass T-fitting of the stock oil pressure sending area on the block. Well, the t-fitting I used had tapered threads. This was never a problem until removing it. The T-fitting by being tapered had cracked the block, it also stripped all the threads in the block. So, getting this repaired would have cost quite a bit if done right as the motor would need to be removed. A brand new F20 installed was around 6k. To repair this block would have been 2k+ and there was ~80k miles on it already, I really didn't see the point in repairing it. Though if I could go back in time, I would have JB welded that oil pressure sensor into the block and then taken the car to a machine shop or muffler shop and told them to just weld around the sensor then went and traded the car in. At the time though, I didn't see myself running into many problems.
For myself, I needed a new motor. I saw the 2.5 as an awesome opportunity to gain power and have everything I've always wanted out of the S2k. And that is what I have now. For me it was a difference of cost, and really the 2.5 in my position was only 3k more, so I guess that fits in with your 1/3 and where I sort of justified the price.
Now could you relax about the
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,403
Likes: 6
From: DFW, TX
Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Dec 2 2007, 08:25 AM
You have formed your opinion based on what you read. You have based your opinion on what others have told you. I have based my opinion on actually doing.
I didn't just have a 100% bolt-on sc'er. It was never at stock boost. First install with 7psi pulley equated to 310 whp. After wrecking on the track(road course), I upped the boost, switched to AEM EMS, changed injectors, etc. 372whp. After a spark plug electrode broke off and melted a piston, I got another block, ERL headwork(which is farmed out), 2mm head gasket, and a 3" pulley- 398 whp. Snapping the sc'er belt and blowing a head gasket on the way to the Dragon in '06 was the final straw. Embarrassing C6's and various other machines on the highway was neat... for the first couple of times.
I took the old block that was scored to Inline and had them sleeve/stroke it. I sold the blown head gasket block. I'm only 12:1 CR, so it's very daily drivable- my suspension not so much.
I did laugh at your comment about "should last two years." You name me ANY engine builder who would offer such a warranty for racing a motor. Just one. Sure, Honda does, but I'm talking about a company that goes beyond what Honda deemed the limit with reliability still at the forefront. Certainly you can see why, with all my background, I would find a 2-yr warranty very attractive.
Until you've done, you and everyone else is required to base your opinions on what others have actually done. Until one has done both, opinions and experiences will be biased. I'm guessing I may be the only one. That's nothing against you, that's just how it is.
You wanna know what's fun? Having folks come up to me after a run session at the track and asking, "You're sc'd/turbo'd, aren't you?"
I didn't just have a 100% bolt-on sc'er. It was never at stock boost. First install with 7psi pulley equated to 310 whp. After wrecking on the track(road course), I upped the boost, switched to AEM EMS, changed injectors, etc. 372whp. After a spark plug electrode broke off and melted a piston, I got another block, ERL headwork(which is farmed out), 2mm head gasket, and a 3" pulley- 398 whp. Snapping the sc'er belt and blowing a head gasket on the way to the Dragon in '06 was the final straw. Embarrassing C6's and various other machines on the highway was neat... for the first couple of times.
I took the old block that was scored to Inline and had them sleeve/stroke it. I sold the blown head gasket block. I'm only 12:1 CR, so it's very daily drivable- my suspension not so much.
I did laugh at your comment about "should last two years."
You name me ANY engine builder who would offer such a warranty for racing a motor. Just one. Sure, Honda does, but I'm talking about a company that goes beyond what Honda deemed the limit with reliability still at the forefront. Certainly you can see why, with all my background, I would find a 2-yr warranty very attractive. Until you've done, you and everyone else is required to base your opinions on what others have actually done. Until one has done both, opinions and experiences will be biased. I'm guessing I may be the only one. That's nothing against you, that's just how it is.
You wanna know what's fun?
Having folks come up to me after a run session at the track and asking, "You're sc'd/turbo'd, aren't you?" 
I cant wait to get my car on the track...but there just hasn't been a date out here that worked with me yet.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,403
Likes: 6
From: DFW, TX
Originally Posted by d-j,Dec 2 2007, 09:10 AM
InLine-Pro 2.5L owner checking in. 
^ ^ ^ ^ Fixed this.
^ ^ ^ ^ Fixed this.
And yes, I often wonder how cool it would be to have the 2.5L with a small turbo, something like the greddy kit.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
From: STL -> Tampa
Originally Posted by phatjo911,Nov 28 2007, 08:18 PM
Does that mean you can still rev up to 9k?
Originally Posted by phatjo911,Nov 28 2007, 08:18 PM
Since it's not a form of forced induction, it means it still has linear acceleration, right??
Originally Posted by phatjo911,Nov 28 2007, 08:18 PM
Would this be the way to go for a major power upgrade if I didn't want to go with a turbo? ( along with some other mods )