Can anyone throw up some details for swapping out my rear so i can push more psi and get a bigger turbo. Also how much does this usually run money wise? Anything usefull is appreciated.

 

puddymod?...usually sufficient

unless you are going crazy,...then 300Z TT rear end swap from inline pro

 

Nissan R200 diff?

 

You should be good with just a puddy mod diff.

 

Inline pro or I can help you. Inline pro makes a kit so, you can install a Nissan 300Z rear.

I build up the factory rear to hold more power. I have stages of rears to choose from, Stage 2 to Stage 4. You can PM me for information if you like

 

Just got back from Tampa last week and had the Puddy Mod Stage 4 diff installed. The difference is incredible. I decided to go with the Mazda 4.44 gearset. Ben and his install guru Dave made the swap look easy. Ultra professional and easy. WELL worth the trip!

The the Stage 4 replaced an AP2 diff with a set of 1st run 4.57 gears installed.
I bought the previous setup from the HardTop Guy with the gearset into diff install being done by someone at, or associated with Ganley Honda. I installed the diff into my car myself. To be completely honest, I wasn't happy with the 4.57 diff buy from the HTG from several points from the delay in receiving my diff to the fact it showed up on my doorstop falling halfway out of the inadequate cardboard box Jeff had shipped it in. To give credit - Jeff doesn't use the same installer any longer and has streamlined the process. I bought one of the early diffs he had prepared.
Nevertheless, the worst part - the diff was extremely noisy from the start - and when I say noisy, I mean I literally couldn't drive 55mph between the diff noise and the Comptech exhaust. Jeff told me that's just the way the gears were. Unfortunately, the problem was in fact the gearset install and setup in the diff. In fairness, the diff did get a little quieter after around 15,000 miles, however the last 10,000 miles the diff started to get ever so slightly noisier. I'm anxious to see how bad the old diff was inside.

From the bad to the good. The performance difference between the old 4.57 setup and the 4.44 Puddy Mod Stage 4 is across the board amazing - much more than anecdotal. You would think the 4.57s would be faster, but that's simply not the case. The performance of the Puddy Mod is largely in part to how well the setup is put together - the careful attention to detail and precise machining of all the necessary parts. My car was quick with the noisy 4.57s - but it's a different animal with the Stage 4. 0-60 times using the Rev program average 0.1 seconds faster - and that's with taller gears. The car now cruises effortlessly at highway speeds. With the old 4.57 diff the car would seemingly labor at speeds above 74 mph (noise and vibration). The car wants to cruise faster than the cops will let you slide.

I figured mileage would increase slightly over time (after the initial break-in). There isn't a huge change in cruising RPMs between the two gearsets - only a 2.4 mph adjustment was needed with the yellowbox. My average MPG going down to Tampa was 24.6 mpg and my return was a tick under 26 mpg. Speeds and conditions were comparable. I was actually surprised the brand new 4.44 set with 75W140 would give me better mileage than the old sloppy 4.57s with 75W110. It'll be interesting to see how well it improves as the diff completely breaks in.

Above all - the most amazing thing is how quiet the car is in comparison. My wife wore sound canceling headphones for the trip down. We actually carried on easy conversations on the way home - which hasn't happened for almost 40,000 miles in this car.

I went with the Puddy Mod diff based on his rock solid reputation. I can tell you his reputation lives on bolstered by my own experience. His attention to detail during the build is something you won't find in many places. He knows what he's doing and he takes the time to do it as close to perfection as you can. The problem with the OEM diff is not the design - it's the quality of the setup. Puddy Mod builds reliability and strength into the factory diff - there's no need to buy into a bulky kit produced by other companies that not only doesn't guarantee reliability - but adds nearly 15 lbs of weight to your car.
This is the only diff you'll need to buy.

 

How much power you looking to push? Putting in an r200 is pricey but worth it if you're looking to push power.

 

The top of the line Stage 4 Puddy Mod diff runs $3,300 and will handle just about anything you can throw at it - with the exception of utter stupidity and violent all-out abuse - and no diff can sustain those.
Puddy typically gives $350-$400 for diffs that are in serviceable condition - IOW: don't roll up in a tow-truck with a blown diff and expect anything for it

The huge benefit with the Puddy Mod diff is it's build to the most exacting standards a diff can be built to. Everything that can be in the Stage 4 is cryoed, balanced and fully blueprinted. The internal modifications to the diff are proven - proven to strengthen the diff, and only the strongest replacement components are used. The overall benefit is you have a diff every bit as strong as any of the other reasonable alternatives available, that costs less overall (no other mods needed for your car), weighs essentially the same as stock (unless you run the heavier Richmond 4.56 gears - and then only a couple pounds heavier).
The bottom line is if you drive your car on the street (your car is streetable) - the Puddy Mod diff is the absolute best option. If you drive your car on the track - SCCA type of track work - the Puddy Mod diff is the absolute best option. If your car is a purpose-built drag car - drag strip only - then you should start looking at another option.