Well honestly, there should be no holes whatsoever anywhere around where the hard top mates with the body of the car. If you wrapped the stripping correctly and evenly, there shouldn't be any issues where any air whatsoever can get in. I'm not accusing you of a bad install or anything, but I know that since you're using the same stripping that I used there shouldn't be any openings/gaps whatsoever.

I propose two different options for correcting the open holes...

1) Locate the holes while the top is still on the car, then take and cut a small piece of the weather stripping and fit it in to those holes so that they can be covered/sealed.

or

2) Remove the top from the car, take it inside and locate the two problem areas and fix it with the remainder of the stripping more properly, or take up the stripping since it is self adhesive and removable, and relay it again.

Just as a side note, the reason I do not have any open areas at all is due to the fact that when I wrapped the weather stripping, I mated it to the hard top all as one piece, so there are no overlapping separate pieces or areas whatsoever, just one complete "wall" so to say, from the drivers side window straight to the passengers side window, all flushed with the lines and curves of the hard tops design.

Also, when you are doing the high speed driving, you do have your windows up, correct? Not down? If down you are obviously going to create the draft that is going to come in to contact with the under body of the hard top, which could cause the lift, but also it'll be applying a hell of a lot of pressure to that rear window (i'm guessing you have the plexi glass window?) which will make it wobble, and could ultimately result in it coming out and flying in to the traffic behind you. It may sound like a stupid question, but I figure in order to solve your problem, I'm trying to brainstorm every possible scenario so that certain things can be ruled out.

In reference to the other issue though about the window hitting the top, where exactly did you purchase your top from?

 

Appreciate the help, it really is kinda annoying that i can't figure it out either. Regarding the small air leaks, this leak is actually coming from the window seal not the bottom seal. As you know the VIS weather stripping doesn't mold to the hardtop at all and you have to crease the weather strip to get it to line up. So i'm thinking either mine was just creased wrong or all VIS tops have that little leak.

Here are pics:

driver side:


pass side:

 

NO! my window was only tapping it on he passenger side! Seriously so strange! I think its the way these things are manufactured. I bought some weather stripping from autozone, and placed it under the front top, it solved my problem of the window hitting, but now it put a gap in between the hardtop, and the windshield.

I installed the new rear stripping, and front stripping at the same time. I want to take the front stripping off, and see if it closes the gap, but i think the passenger window will hit the hard top.

 

Oh, my bad! I didn't realize that you were referring to the side window pieces.

YES, all the VIS side window stripping pieces do that same crease.

I have found a trick that I do with mine though and it stays sealed with no issues...

1) Roll the window down just an inch or two, then take your finger and push up/out (away from the car) on that corner piece of the stripping where it creases and then roll the window back up and it'll actually push the glass up and seal it, at least that's how it's been working with mine.

A lot of people have found luck with fixing this issue though by purchasing the OEM hard top window stripping kit and mating it to the VIS top. My idea though is that you could probably save money if it's not the biggest of deals to you by taking and picking up one of the other heavier/thicker stripping kits from Magic Mounts at Pep Boys as I saw such while I was there picking up the stripping kit for the hard top.

Like I stated though, I've been using that trick that I mentioned above with rolling the window down/up and so I haven't really been in a rush to lay down new stripping since it works for me by doing that method.

 

What brand of stripping are you using for the front? The reason I ask because if what you're saying is happening, perhaps you could try a smaller width or design of stripping? That might possibly fix the gap/height issue and thus in the long run correct any issues with the window tapping and such.

 

One solution to the window hitting the HT or the fronts to low, maybe in the use of shims cut to the size of the latches and placed underneath between the latch and the inside of the HT. OEM and Mugen Ht's come with shims to make adjustments here.
The shims I made were just rectangular pieces of aluminium aprox 3mm. But rubber can be used as well for better sound deadening.
my 2 cents...

 

That's a great recommendation for the people who are experiencing these issues.

I'm guessing you had issues when you installed yours, thus the need for the shims? How bad of a fit was it for you before fixing the issue?

 

the 3mm made all the difference, took the pressure off the HT edge as well. I feel that with time could have cracked/ split up the edge. Now the pressure is being transferred more to the latches as opposed to the edge of the HT.

 

I must say that I'm definitely glad that I wasn't experiencing this issue because it seems that so many people who have picked up the Mugen/VIS/Seibon tops have run in to it. Either I just got extremely lucky with a good mold, or it was attributed to the fact of the stripping on the front being flawless.

None the less though, best of luck to all of you guys who choose to take the route that XOZ has proposed!

 

Doing my install today. Got the Magic Mounts weather stripping from Pep Boys last night so I probably won't even bother with the one that comes with the top. I'll let you guys know how it goes.