weight reduction vs ride hieght vs ohlins road and track
#21
Preload for a stock weight S2000 on Ohlins with 10K rear springs is something like 9-10mm (IIRC).
On a stock car...front preload for 10K springs is fine at 0. But you need to measure to get the right number for your car and set your 8K springs.
Is there an actual shock travel measurement you're after?
I'm guessing you want the car to oversteer, judging by the spring rate choice?
I think you should probably weigh that car...
Idk about 2-300LB...
So...your car weighs 50-75lbs less per corner (on average), according to your predicted weight loss.
If your predicted weight loss is ALL sprung weight and is correct....do you believe those numbers to cause like a 4" lift? ehhh....
Like...if you took a stock height S2000 on 10K springs and you grabbed the fender well and lifted upward with 50-75LB of force...you wouldn't get a 4" lift...knowwhatImean? .....
Or...inversely, if you put a 50-75LB load onto a corner of a S2000 with 10K springs, would it sink 4"?
That ride height is not because of the weight loss, my main man.
The measurement you used for your setup is MASSIVELY wrong, is my point. Or there is something wrong with the install that you should probably check on.
On a stock car...front preload for 10K springs is fine at 0. But you need to measure to get the right number for your car and set your 8K springs.
Is there an actual shock travel measurement you're after?
I'm guessing you want the car to oversteer, judging by the spring rate choice?
I think you should probably weigh that car...
Idk about 2-300LB...
So...your car weighs 50-75lbs less per corner (on average), according to your predicted weight loss.
If your predicted weight loss is ALL sprung weight and is correct....do you believe those numbers to cause like a 4" lift? ehhh....
Like...if you took a stock height S2000 on 10K springs and you grabbed the fender well and lifted upward with 50-75LB of force...you wouldn't get a 4" lift...knowwhatImean? .....
Or...inversely, if you put a 50-75LB load onto a corner of a S2000 with 10K springs, would it sink 4"?
That ride height is not because of the weight loss, my main man.
The measurement you used for your setup is MASSIVELY wrong, is my point. Or there is something wrong with the install that you should probably check on.
in regards to you questioning the actual weight loss the car has been to scale frequently and its been weighed as low as 24xx and i have taken weight off since
the shocks are installed properly , theres no left over jack
theres also a big difference between oem 295 spring rate shock and the 595 spring thats in there now , that combined with 15 preload the shock barley compresses from full extension when the car weight is lowered down onto the tire , why is it so hard to believe a 3-4 inch lift when the shock is sitting at full stroke with the weight of the car on it ?
also add the car was at about 27.5-28 inches in the rear on the oem shocks with all the weight reduction and the weight reduction is not perfect 50/50 split front to back , way more on back
so the ohlins 595 spring rate added 2 inches over the 295 oem
im just trying to share my exprenines with others so they can learn from it and save them selves time and money , if you doubt my claims or "measurements" maybe you should try all this your self first hand
#22
A lot of guys here are not buying the information you're giving because a lot of them are very knowledgeable on suspension.
Please post a pic of the Ohlins DFV coilover as it is installed on your car in the previous pic. That should provide the answer.
Please post a pic of the Ohlins DFV coilover as it is installed on your car in the previous pic. That should provide the answer.
#26
As mentioned, throw the "recommended set up" out the window, remove all the pre load off the spring and measure how much droop you get ( you can set ride height later) If the spring is too firm for the weight of the car with no pre load, you will get very little droop and will need to add 0 weight helper springs so you can back off the spring from the perch and still have the spring seated but now using this to take up some of the ridiculous amount of up stroke you have, now you will be more "centered" in stroke from droop to compression stroke and can then set your desired ride height from the shock body length and balance the two to the desired stroke amount up and down. I had to do this on my coilovers when upping the spring rate from 10 to 14k ( then did not come with helper springs originally) Its all about calibrating spring weight to the weight of the car and the available stroke on your particular coilover, this goes for any coilover off the shelf, again throw the recommended settings out the window since they are based on a one size fits all approach and meant for the average consumer that has little understanding of cause/effect/influence of coilovers.
Side note, Also noticed in a couple pics your upper control arm bolt is loose just In case you weren't aware. Dont want to drive off like that.
Side note, Also noticed in a couple pics your upper control arm bolt is loose just In case you weren't aware. Dont want to drive off like that.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 04-30-2019 at 10:24 PM.
#27
As mentioned, throw the "recommended set up" out the window, remove all the pre load off the spring and measure how much droop you get ( you can set ride height later) If the spring is too firm for the weight of the car with no pre load, you will get very little droop and will need to add 0 weight helper springs so you can back off the spring from the perch and still have the spring seated but now using this to take up some of the ridiculous amount of up stroke you have, now you will be more "centered" in stroke from droop to compression stroke and can then set your desired ride height from the shock body length and balance the two to the desired stroke amount up and down. I had to do this on my coilovers when upping the spring rate from 10 to 14k ( then did not come with helper springs originally) Its all about calibrating spring weight to the weight of the car and the available stroke on your particular coilover, this goes for any coilover off the shelf, again throw the recommended settings out the window since they are based on a one size fits all approach and meant for the average consumer that has little understanding of cause/effect/influence of coilovers.
Side note, Also noticed in a couple pics your upper control arm bolt is loose just In case you weren't aware. Dont want to drive off like that.
Side note, Also noticed in a couple pics your upper control arm bolt is loose just In case you weren't aware. Dont want to drive off like that.
#28
Wow there can't be much thread engagement on the lower cups there.
You have those setup way beyond what is recommended in the Öhlins manual, have you read it at all?
Get them setup like it says bellow, then unthread the lower cups 10 turns so get get 37mm (instead of 22mm) in between the locking rings.
This should get you close to stock ride height and is also the highest recommended ride height setting unless you ad even more preload.
You have those setup way beyond what is recommended in the Öhlins manual, have you read it at all?
Get them setup like it says bellow, then unthread the lower cups 10 turns so get get 37mm (instead of 22mm) in between the locking rings.
This should get you close to stock ride height and is also the highest recommended ride height setting unless you ad even more preload.