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05' S NA Driveability thread
#13
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
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#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
OEM final drive is just fine. i got 35.2 MPG on the way to georgia. consumed about 4.01 gallons. car needed an alignment. also needs to have the suspension fasteners loosened on one side. preload the suspension and retorque. hehe the dang thing sits 3/4 low on the left side. and sometime this coming week i should be getting NGK fine tip iridium plugs.
so first thing i am going to do is redo the intake. *basically* i am going to chop up a V1 AEM CAI and add a plenum box/air filter setup. this will require the old man to draw it up on cad and do some airflow calcs(if im lucky) and then run the pickup back down to the CAI location will a bellmouth/velocity funnel.
then ill install an aftermarket/piggyback EMS. and tune it.
after that ill screw with the exhaust.
i think with an intake exhaust and a good tune with vtec starting lower the car will be more satisfying to my needs
so first thing i am going to do is redo the intake. *basically* i am going to chop up a V1 AEM CAI and add a plenum box/air filter setup. this will require the old man to draw it up on cad and do some airflow calcs(if im lucky) and then run the pickup back down to the CAI location will a bellmouth/velocity funnel.
then ill install an aftermarket/piggyback EMS. and tune it.
after that ill screw with the exhaust.
i think with an intake exhaust and a good tune with vtec starting lower the car will be more satisfying to my needs
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
so i read and read and read before i make modifications.
today i learned you can make the VAFC work when you add an Adjustable FPR. this allows you to add fuel in open loop mode, and remove it as needed with the VAFC. and with the VAFC you need to set the rpm window around 5000rpm ish.
but for the cost of all that PLUS the MANDATORY wideband o2 system. i might as well by an aem ems. blargh looks like im saving my pennies.
today i learned you can make the VAFC work when you add an Adjustable FPR. this allows you to add fuel in open loop mode, and remove it as needed with the VAFC. and with the VAFC you need to set the rpm window around 5000rpm ish.
but for the cost of all that PLUS the MANDATORY wideband o2 system. i might as well by an aem ems. blargh looks like im saving my pennies.
#17
Info on the Hondata KPro:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ter-power.aspx
Improved responsiveness of the AP1 flywheel vs. the AP2:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...rivetrain.aspx
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ter-power.aspx
Improved responsiveness of the AP1 flywheel vs. the AP2:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...rivetrain.aspx
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
im picking up some LE 1605 for the diff, but the distro says alot of the locals run it in the tranny, can i do this? what about yellow metal compatibility?
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
LE1605 is not to be used in the transmission. Use either honda mtf or some other quality compatible oil. Also I'm making the switch to 0w30. Should provide better economy and all the needed protection.
So 1qt LE1605 in the diff, 2qts redline Mtl in the tranny. 5+Qts in the engine and a Pcx-004.
Also I sold my trucks so say hello to two new oem rims and new tires!!!!! Yayyyyyyy
And the new airbox will be here on Tuesday. After that I'll replace the right rear control arm bushings with new ones, maybe poly, but I'd do all the corners. And then a valve adjustment. So I guess I need new valve cover gaskets too!
So 1qt LE1605 in the diff, 2qts redline Mtl in the tranny. 5+Qts in the engine and a Pcx-004.
Also I sold my trucks so say hello to two new oem rims and new tires!!!!! Yayyyyyyy
And the new airbox will be here on Tuesday. After that I'll replace the right rear control arm bushings with new ones, maybe poly, but I'd do all the corners. And then a valve adjustment. So I guess I need new valve cover gaskets too!
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
I ended up putting new honda mtf in the transmission. Saved some of the old for a UOA. Didn't look bad. But I don't know how old it was . I'd rather know for sure. It was pretty easy. 17 mm socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Knock it loose abruptly so as to not shear the threads. Torque to 33ft/lbs fill bolt, and 29ft/lbs drain bolt. I used 1.8qts. No noticeable change in shift feel. But it's fresh and clean.
Tomorrow I'll post some pics finally
Tomorrow I'll post some pics finally