PapiChulo

I have 119k miles and blown rings. I've decided im going to retire the car from daily use (but still would like to retain daily usability for when I want to take it out). I want to rebuild the engine with a little more kick to it. The car will be primarily used for HPDE and track days with the occasional street cruise when I get the itch to take it out.

Id like to keep the Parts cost to this around $3-5k if possible.

So what parts would you guys use?

thebattleforokc

Are you wanting to stay N/A with just bolt-ons or FI?

PapiChulo

stay NA

atomic

I would definitely start with having the block sleeved, which will allow you to run a huge range of pistons of your choice. You could for example sent it directly to Benson and have the Sleeves installed or you could go straight to Laskey Racing and have their standard build (http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/s2000.htm) which is very good though personally I prefer Carrillo Rods be them either Pro-A or Pro-H.

If you decide to go the individual parts route and have it built or do it yourself them my personal choice in parts are as follows.

Block Sleeves installed by Dan Benson
CP Pistons (CR 12.5:1)
Carrillo Tapered H-Beam or Super A-Beam Rods (Your choice)
Honda Bearings (Could use ACL but nothing wrong with Honda)
Ferrea Beahive Valve springs and Ti retainers
Head work by Larry at Endyn (Retain OE Honda Inconel Valves)
Cosworth Head Gasket (.38mm for staying NA)
ARP Head Studs
Modified Baffled Sump and Accusump fitted

Larry at Endyn would build you a very nice motor to your spec inc all head work etc.
or you could do the short block at once place say Laskey and the head at another for example Endyn/Portflow.

As for CAM's that's a difficult one as I've never been particularly impressed with any I've seen but then there are so many that I've not seen.

PapiChulo

Thanks Atomic. its a place to start now.

wadzii

or you could just go with some .25 over size Mahle pistons and keep everything else stock

do it on the cheap and still maintain excellent reliability.

atomic

True, you cold go that route but it limits you options. If you sleeve the block you can pick a piston design and therefore compression ratio to your requirements. If you stay with the FRM cylinders you are limited to either oe Honda or Mahle Gold pistons of 8.9/9.5:1 (std Honda is 11.0:1) as I don't think the currently offer any other ratios off the shelf for the F20C. These ratio's would be fine for Forced Induction but no good for staying Normally Aspirated and therefore you are back to square one.

Going the sleeve route allows you to run a large range of makes and designs with lots of options regarding bore size and compression ratio's ie higher CR for NA and lower for FI.

There are other reasons for recommending having the block sleeved. If you current bores need any attention when it's going to cost. Honing FRM cylinders is more complicated and time consuming that ductile iron bores and there are only a very few shops/people with the specialist knowledge and equipment to do it correctly. Non FRM pistons are 200-250 cheaper and in my mind this money would be better spent going towards getting the block sleeved by someone Like Dan Benson.

PapiChulo you may find these links interesting..
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/ht...ners/index.html
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=565375

wadzii

everything you said is incorrect. My machine shop charges the same to hone FRM or "normal" bores. the process is the same, you just have to use a specific stone to hone the block.

Mahle does stock a variety of pistons for the s2000. from 8.5:1 up to 13.5:1

I use aebs sleeves for everything, by the time you ship the block, etc.. then you are going to spend at least $1100-1200, Mahle pistons run about $250 more than a wiseco piston

atomic

Is that so. Most engine shops which can actually re-hone FRM cylinders inline with Honda's guidelines usually charge more than they would for a ductile iron hone as the FRM hone is a slower process as the Silicon carbide stones must be cleaned every 2 cycles and 1 set of stones is only good for 1-2 4 cylinder blocks and you would usually use two different grades in the process.

Honing FRM cylinders should be done as follows
materials and methods:
Use only a rigid hone.
Honings tones: GC-600-J or finer stones for non-ferrous metals
Pressure : 200- 300 kPa(2-3 kgf/cm2, 28-43 psi)
Honing rpm: 45-50
Honing thickness; Less than 0.02m m (0.0008in.) Do not hone more than 20 cycles
Honing pattern:60 degree cross-hatch

and again quite a lot of shops don't have bore honers which go down to the defined 40-50rpm, just check out the specs of the very popular Sunnen SV-10. So you check with your shop if they actually do it inline with Honda's guidelines?

By the time you factor in the ability to use cheaper pistons say for example 250 for CP's (but you could use any number for example JE which would be even cheaper) and let for arguments say you need to re-hone the std FRM cylinders which would be 200-300?? (not really sure as you're over the other side of the pond, so correct me on this) and you'll see you are already more then 1/2 way there to a sleeved setup.

And big deal so I didn't know Mahle now did higher compression pistons for the F20C than the ones I listed, I have no real dealing with Mahle as the projects I work on we use Omega a lot.

wadzii

idk why your machine shop cant do it, but mine can.. they had no problem doing it at all.

my shop doesn't charge anymore to hone the s2000 block than they do anything else.

an aebs block done by z10 costs $1250, Mahle pistons are 250 more than wiseco's, thats a $1000 difference.

plus you dont have to worry about the main alignment, resurfacing the the block, sleeves sinking, headgasket issues, etc