Going to be installing my brand new from Honda 2.2L short block into my Ap1 within the next couple of weeks hopefully and have some questions. Yes guys I do know how to use the search button on this site when it comes to the questions i have and have done so for a very long time. Think of it as a hypothetical or " What If I already had a brand new 2.2L short block to install in my S? what supporting and performance mods would I do from the start? " I'll tell you guys what I have already and what additional I'm thinking of purchasing at this time in two separate lists. Post your ideas and a small explanation as to why you would do or not do certain things. Thanks everyone!!

- What I already have -
1-New 2.2L short block
2-Ap1 head freshened with supertech valves,springs, retainers.
3-Ap1 cams
4-New Ap1 TCT (not sure if it'll work on 2.2L)
5-stock header
6-stock intake mani and throttle body
7-Ap1 flywheel(I've read it works well with the 2.2L)
8-Ap1 transmission
9-Hondata Kpro
10-ID 1000's
11-255 Walbro fuel pump
12-ARP head studs
13- original '01 engine mounts with only 12,xxx miles
14- new Honda transmission mounts

- What I'm thinking of purchasing -
1-Clutch (either Competition stage 2 or ACT hd pressure plate with stock disk)
2-Headgasket(was gonna do stock but maybe I should do one for more compression?)
3-Baffled oil pan (not yet sure which one)
4-Gern pipe with custom single 2.5" exhaust or 3" test pipe with an off the shelf single 3" exhaust
5- Urge design individual throttle bodies ( if someone knows of someone near NYC that can properly tune them)
6-Intake( if I don't go itb's)
7-Fluidampr crank damper

Let me know what you guys would add, replace or just delete.
Thanks again.

 

I would drop the ARP head studs because I seem to recall hearing about issues with them maintaining torque specs, I would advise against the headgasket because I have also seen a lot of posts of people having issues with aftermarket ones and then moving back to the OEM ones.

I would also consider boring out the throttle body and then port matching the intake manifold if you don't end up doing the ITBs.
as far as the cams, since you are already upgrading the valvetrain I would see if you could find a set of cams. other than that looks pretty good IMO.
cant say I have heard anything about the crank damper other than that it exists.

 

Let me know if you need help deciding what to do about #4!

 

Chime in guys we could have some decent debates with new info come out of this post

 

the problem with arp studs and cometic gaskets is that most people cant read directions. lube the shit out of the nuts and washers, you wont have any problems. make sure the surface on the head is under 30ra (your machine shop should have an ra gauge)

go on ebay and get the cheapest biggest tubed header you can.. it wont make any difference in power, but you'll loose a ton of weight and be able to get the tranny in and out w/o having to remove the header.

You have no need for id1000's, if you must upgrade and you are not running e85 use rdx 410's or id750's with an aem ems. Kpro does funny things and is not ITB friendly if you do go that route... for all motor you wont need to upgrade the fuel pump either

while its apart put some aftermarket valve springs and retainers in it. I have been using the supertech beehive stuff with great results.. and for ~$360 bux its cheap insurance... put some bc2 cams in it while you're at it... while your at that send me your head.. I'll cart it down to RLZ for some cnc treatment and you can really make some power

dont worry with the damper.. you arent making 1000hp, you dont need one.

If you do ITB's go with kinsler or someone thats been doing itb's for a long time. Kinsler will sell them to you ready to go. If you dont go with itb's then get your stock intake ported to match a 70-74mm throttle body (bigger is better here) and build a long 3.5 or 4 inch cold air intake.

 

If its not one thing it's the other. Wadzii what is the problem with Kpro and Itb's??? WTH I can't win!
I already have the ID 1000's. is it a problem if I use them?
Head already has supertech stuff but tell me more about RLZ and their Cnc head work
Oh and my arp studs were torqued down on my previous motor that was never ran or installed in my car. Is it a problem if I use them? Are they stretched?

 

kpro only uses map readings to tune the car. to get ITB's running perfectly you need to combine map and tps. This is very easy to do with aem.

the studs are fine. For all motor you can use them a number of times, just follow the arp instructions, torque them down exactly how they say and make sure to use enough lube on the washers and nuts.

RLZ's headwork speaks for itself.. ALL the fast imports at the track have RLZ heads. Just his valve job picks up around 10-15hp on a stockish car.

there is nothing wrong with using the id1000, they just wont idle and drive as good as a small injector. They are amazing for a 1000cc injector, but they are still a big injector.

 

hondata allows you to tune via alpha n as well. i actually got an itb car running this past weekend with aem series 2. the car drives smooth.

i'd probably go with a full standalone with itb's. like you said a mix of both is needed. it makes idle a lot easier especially for street car with a/c.

 

So I should sell the Hondata and get aem if I want itb's then. On the same motor how much of a benefit will I have with itb's ? I'm probably going to go with the gernpipe so I will have a better mid range already. I wonder if I did both what my dyno graph would look like. Has anyone with itb's used the gernpipe?

 

If you are dead set on ITB's aem is a far better way to tune the car. Max power wont be any different but with aem you can make the car drive like it came with ITB's.. with kpro its not so easy.

With aem you can blend the tbs and map sensor over the entire rpm and load range.. you cant do that with kpro