spaded.racer

Don't bother. Looks cool, got lots of compliments, not good for HP.

JamesD89

Really? Gernby seemed to have excellent results with it a few years ago.

Fokker

Gernby's testing seemed to indicate otherwise.

spaded.racer

You dont one have to believe me. In my experience it was robbing power.

I can post my setup tomorrow but it’s a standard STR build. PLM header -> 70mm HFC -> 75mm HKS single. The PWJDM was choking my engine. My tuner found ~8hp in the mid range and 10-15 up top from swapping in a basic short ram he had laying around the shop over the PWJDM I had on my car.

the-moss

I was just talking to a tuner about this, this weekend. I had never heard of the password jdm being a power suck before. You’re not in IL are you?

spaded.racer

I am. It wasn’t the first one he had seen robbing power either. Mikey knows his shit and I trust his opinion/input.

the-moss

yeah I trust him too. I heard your car did very well on the dyno.

spaded.racer

MODEL: 2006 Honda S2000

SUSPENSION:
JRZ RS Pro 2-Way - 800/600 7" Hyperco Springs, Karcepts spherical upper mounts front/rear
Karcepts 0.250 Front Sway Bar
Karcepts 0.095 Rear Sway Bar
Origin Offset Bushings in front

WHEELS/TIRES:
TRM C3 17x9 +62
Conti ECS 255/40/17

Enkei PF01 SS 17x9 +60
Bridgestone RE71R 255/40/17

BRAKES:
OEM Calipers
OEM Pads

ENGINE:
Custom Intake
PLM Header - JetHot Coated
EVS 70mm HFC
HKS 75mm Single
Radium Dual Catch Can
Megan Racing engine and transmission mounts

ECU:
OEM - Tuned with Hondata Flashpro

SEATS:
OEM Seats

MISC:
OEM CR Lip
OEM CR Wing
Mr. Sideways Radiator
Megan Racing Differential bushings

ALIGNMENT:
Front: Camber -3.5°, Total Toe 0, Caster 6.1
Rear: Camber -2.5°, Total Toe-in 3/16th

HEIGHT/WEIGHT:
13" front, 12 7/8th rear (measured from hub center to fender)
Haven't corner weighted or had it on scales yet

To Do List for 2019:
Replace compliance and rest of A-Arm bushings, Stainless Steel brake lines, Drive better/faster

BoboTheMonkey

MODEL: 2005 Honda S2000

SUSPENSION:

• Koni/GC "coilovers" 500F/450R (got them super cheap)
• Karcepts 0.250 Front Sway Bar set at 4/4
• Stock Rear Sway Bar
• Energy Suspension Rear Diff Mounts
• SPC offset ball joints

WHEELS/TIRES:

• Enkei PF01 17x9 +60
• Bridgestone RE71R 255/40/17 Square

BRAKES:

• SOS brake rotors with OEM pads

ENGINE:

• K&N Fipk
• Ballade Sports Header
• Berk 70mm HFC
• Invidia Q300 single exit exhaust

ECU:

• Greddy Emanage Ultimate

SEATS:

• OEM with BYS rails

MISC:

• Koyo Radiator

ALIGNMENT:

• Front: Camber -2.8, Total Toe 0, Caster 6.0 (wanted more front camber, but couldn't get it due to the way the ball joints were pressed in.)
• Rear: Camber -3.1°, Total Toe 3/16" in

HEIGHT/WEIGHT:

• 14" all around measured from hub center to fender
• No idea on weight

To Do List for 2019:

• Don't have the Emanage installed yet and this will be the first season with this alignment. Unfortunately, I have the AP2V1, so the tuning side of things sucks. I hit the rev limiter a lot as is, so with more power, it'll be more of an issue. Will maybe fiddle with the front bar a bit more(loosen it up) or buy the karcepts rear bar for more adjustabilty. Set up isn't the greatest, but it seems pretty consistent and I am at the point that I can usually get all my last few runs within a quarter second or so of each other.

Fokker

Are the ball joints installed to add negative camber? They can be installed to add positive camber (as was done before I bought the car) and I had to flip them around to get to the -3.5° I have now.