Is there a 2020 thread? I looking to convert my daily 2005 s2k into a STR lite, basically do the suspension right and leave everything else stock. I’m hoping I’ll autox more if I don’t have to load the truck & trailer.

so far this thread has been very helpful.

I am guessing most people have not changed much. With STR totally dominated by the ND, there are not a lot of new super serious autox builds and I think most of what has been done is "the thing to do". I have autox'd mine a few times this season when the codrive car (ND) is not avaialble. But have not changed my setup at all. I use the S2k for Track Night in America events mostly now and am toying with the idea of an SCCA TT build.

I can still put down one of the few fastest raw times (not including FMods and Karts) locally in my S2k, but not as fast as I can run in the ND of course.

If I were changing anything, I would probably go with Karcepts front and rear bars. I currently have Moddiction front and stock rear. Has worked ok but if I were changing, I really like the Karcepts for both the amount of adjustability and moreso the ease of adjustability. Way better endlink connection setup that truly only requires one wrench and one hand to adjust!

Way more blingy shocks would also be nice, but I have my TcKline setup working pretty well for me and thus do not feel a need to change right now. If the car became more of a true competition car again (maybe for TT) I would consider looking for some used Penske's, MCS or Motons maybe.

For a good suspension setup that does not totally kill the wallet (Relative to some choices) I think going with the MCS setup from Karcepts, some Karcepts bars and some 17x9's with 255's is your best bet. The Karcepts tune is really nice if you have an AP1, but if just going suspension I would look that route for new parts. You also may find a number of folks with their used setups for sale too these days.

The used parts from people converting their S2K's back into collector's pieces are coming around... I can vouch for that lol. I'm not doing anything new or ground-breaking with my STR/TT set up either. Just seeing what other people are running and getting a feel for what works.

If so they can DM me since I need some stuff for my AP1
-edit-
Found some! Thank you

Since this year was blown, I've not concerned myself with setting up for autox anymore. I've been doing more track events and considering modifications around that. HPDE stuff at the moment to further improve (I have a tendency to want to take autox lines around a course, not the fast way) and moving into W2W next year.

17x9 tsw 255 ao52’s

S2000 Settings
FRONT
* Camber: -3.5 degrees
* Toe: 0 degrees
13” from hub to fender

REAR
* Camber: -3.0 degrees
* Toe: slightly in
13.25” hub to fender

Penske Shocks
Rear sway bar is Karcepts.

Front bar is 1 of 2 custom made by a guy that helped me setup the car. Some know him well as he was a big contributor early on with setting up S2000s for STR. His names Jake Dawson (aka nmrado on forums).

700lbs front
600lbs rear

While it's not nationally competitive it's still fun

2003 Honda S2000
OEM Hardtop with soft top removed

Suspension
- Ride Height its 13" front and 13.15" rear
- Fortune Auto 510 THM valving - Swift 12k front and 10k rear springs - Aluminum Bodies
- Karcepts front .250" Sway Bar on 3/4 hole out of 6/6.
- Rear 06 MX5 sway bar currently 03+05 bars also in storage.
- Baero Offset UCA arm bushings
- UCA Arms reinforced by welds

Engine:
- E-Manage + Karcepts Tune (tweaked too)
- EVS HFC- HKS Single Exhaust
- Gutted Stock Airbox + K&N filter
- Rain H8r Baffle Mod
- TSB Intake Retainers (AP2)
- RoadRunner Fuel Baffle Plate

Misc:
- Ingalls ETD
- LHT Brake Brace
- Stainless Lines
- DIY Oil Filter Stopper
- CG Lock
- Custom rear brake ducts (shop vac mod)
- 3D Printed front Brake Ducts on LCA

Alignment:
car is still driven on the street a lot
-2.8 Camber Front -2.6 Camber Rear
- 0 Toe front and 1/8 toe in total for the rear

Wheels:
Kosei K8R 17x9 +16 16.3 lbs​ (Racer)
- 255 Bridgestone RE71Rs (Closeout)
TRM C3's 17.5 lbs (Track / MM4M)
- 245 Hankooks RS4 squared
AP2v1 Powdercoated Highland Bronze (Daily)
- Conti Extreme Contact Sport
- 225/45R17 Front / 255/40R17 Rear

Future:
- AP2 OE Bumper with BaysonR CR Lip
- Berk 70mm HFC (when this one goes)
- PLM or Unicorn Header
- Fluidampr
- Possibly a less droney exhaust
- 9LR Rear Wing for track days (spare trunk)

I managed to win STR locally and PAX for vehicles at my first event. Car didn't have the Karcepts bar or the MX5 rear bar and wanted to snap steer a bit. The ND2 and AP2 guys ran 2.5 seconds slower than me when I ran the RS4s. Granted I had a Co-driver so they actually got heat for once.
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It would be interesting to see what it weighed though.

Question to you and anyone else running 255 A052's. Are they rubbing and do you have your fenders rolled? I noticed they're .4" wider in tread width than the Rival S's on my car now. I have a very similar setup to you in terms of ride height and alignment.

With the correct offset and camber 255’s should fit with or without a roll.

I paid to have mine rolled and they aren’t even close. I have 3.5 degrees of camber with higher offset wheels though. I’m sure I could fit the 10’s and wider tires if I wanted to change classes.

So I want to lower my rear ride height a 1/4”. I know if I divide the he coil over thread pitch by the motion ratio, that will tell me how many turns.

anyone have a cheat sheet? Maybe 2 turns down equals 1/4?

Anyone make fine adjustments and have a suggestion for how many turns will equal 1/4”?