2006+ S2000 Brake Ducts (Front)
05-01-2016, 09:18 PM
#2
I like it.
I can't do that because that area in front of my condenser is filled with a monster heat exchanger, its hoses and an oil cooler but it's nicely done.
You may have tire rub on the ducting though. I had to make a retainer sleeve and mount it to the sway bar bracket to hold the duct down and away from the tire.
I can't do that because that area in front of my condenser is filled with a monster heat exchanger, its hoses and an oil cooler but it's nicely done.
You may have tire rub on the ducting though. I had to make a retainer sleeve and mount it to the sway bar bracket to hold the duct down and away from the tire.
05-02-2016, 06:23 AM
#4
Interesting location, I especially like the dust sheild hole to only feed air into the rotor hat to avoid over cooling the inboard rotor face. My concern is with using NACA ducts in this location as they are generally somewhat picky as to where and how they are positioned. Generally you want to position them in a spot with very fast moving, low pressure air with a small boundary layer. This generally means places like on top of a hood, in an undertray, etc. the air in the radiator shroud is going to be very slow, high pressure and turbulent. I don't think the ducts will be operating very efficiently, for brake cooling it will likely be enough but not as much as it could be. It is definitely a nice clean & stealthy install. I'm getting ready to do ducts on my car and might do a similarish install
05-02-2016, 01:06 PM
#6
Interesting location, I especially like the dust sheild hole to only feed air into the rotor hat to avoid over cooling the inboard rotor face. My concern is with using NACA ducts in this location as they are generally somewhat picky as to where and how they are positioned. Generally you want to position them in a spot with very fast moving, low pressure air with a small boundary layer. This generally means places like on top of a hood, in an undertray, etc. the air in the radiator shroud is going to be very slow, high pressure and turbulent. I don't think the ducts will be operating very efficiently, for brake cooling it will likely be enough but not as much as it could be. It is definitely a nice clean & stealthy install. I'm getting ready to do ducts on my car and might do a similarish install
Given the NACA duct's "likes" I wonder if it would actually work just as well or better mounted to the horizontal plastic undertray just ahead of each wheel (or into a splitter if you had one). That could also release pressure from where it builds under the front of the car ahead of each tire, reducing lift and drag.
05-02-2016, 01:08 PM
#7
Originally Posted by gregrocks' timestamp='1462199011' post='23954568
Interesting location, I especially like the dust sheild hole to only feed air into the rotor hat to avoid over cooling the inboard rotor face. My concern is with using NACA ducts in this location as they are generally somewhat picky as to where and how they are positioned. Generally you want to position them in a spot with very fast moving, low pressure air with a small boundary layer. This generally means places like on top of a hood, in an undertray, etc. the air in the radiator shroud is going to be very slow, high pressure and turbulent. I don't think the ducts will be operating very efficiently, for brake cooling it will likely be enough but not as much as it could be. It is definitely a nice clean & stealthy install. I'm getting ready to do ducts on my car and might do a similarish install
Given the NACA duct's "likes" I wonder if it would actually work just as well or better mounted to the horizontal plastic undertray just ahead of each wheel (or into a splitter if you had one). That could also release pressure from where it builds under the front of the car ahead of each tire, reducing lift and drag.
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05-02-2016, 02:19 PM
#8
Registered User
Flexible ducts (like typical dryer ducts that look like these) have horrible air flow due to all the turbulence. Smoother interior will help, but these are no doubt better than none.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
05-02-2016, 08:36 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
I like that silicone coupler bracket idea! I'll have to try to remember that for when I need it. I checked tires at full lock (though full suspension droop) and they don't rub (225s). But in highsight, I would've gotten some longer hose and moved the hook point higher in the chassis. The higher you go, the more tire clearance you have. And you can go almost 2-3" higher than what I did. Just manage abrasion at the front under the headlight support and it could work with 255s.
These NACA ducts are not really being used for their original purpose which is to channel air into a housing with minimal drag. Ain't nobody got time fo' dat. What we have here is a simple yet savage brute forcing of air that occurs at the front of the car at speed. Besides the front radiator opening and the base of the windshield there is no other greater area of air pressure. These NACA ducts just provided me with a low profile way to tap into this high pressure box that Honda has created in the front bumper. These ducts also have a nice angled exit towards the fender but I doubt it matters much. I probably could've used the same aluminum aircraft flanges I used on the dust shields but that wouldn't have gotten me as much street cred on the internets. I even added some stickers for extra cooling power. lol
Yeah, this is cheap flexible hose. It was less than $50 for enough to do fronts and rears. It has helped a lot. I had driven on my worn (~3mm left) XP10s through last fall and winter on the street and rarely got a chance to transfer any pad material back onto the rotors after mild street driving took it off. So, for last week's HPDE, I had installed a new set of XP10s and thought I would try to bed them in at the track. At the end of 2 cold and wet sessions where I drove fairly hard, only the outer half of both front and rear rotors really show much evidence of pad transfer, lol. Yeah, these things kept the brakes really cool. Probably too cool for the conditions!
Here is a video of one of the sessions so you know I wasn't going easy on the brakes. https://youtu.be/Q-HPC389YVI
And yes, I thought long and hard about whether to mount it facing the underside of the car to help reduce lift. But I decided to reduce drag instead. The car needs all the help it can get when it gets into a battle royale with the air in Episodes IV, V, and VI of Shift Wars... lol. Plus, I believe the rad opening will feed a LOT more air to the hoses than front facing ducts further away from the centerline of the car. But there's no reason to fight about it. We can just install a y pipe and run both!
Dare me to throw a MAF sensor in the hose? hahahaha. Again, ain't nobody got time fo' dat. I just ran a shop vac in blower mode and felt a 'ton' of air come out from behind the rotor. Though, it didn't come out of the vanes as nicely as I had hoped. maybe it's different when the air pump is running, aka wheels turning. Or I may need to work on my air nozzle. Ideally, I'd get the fancy ones that basically seal the rotor center to the duct, but I am not, as they say, a baller.
Another added benefit is that these can be installed without taking the front bumper off. This also allows easier front bumper removal for the hardcore track guys.
These NACA ducts are not really being used for their original purpose which is to channel air into a housing with minimal drag. Ain't nobody got time fo' dat. What we have here is a simple yet savage brute forcing of air that occurs at the front of the car at speed. Besides the front radiator opening and the base of the windshield there is no other greater area of air pressure. These NACA ducts just provided me with a low profile way to tap into this high pressure box that Honda has created in the front bumper. These ducts also have a nice angled exit towards the fender but I doubt it matters much. I probably could've used the same aluminum aircraft flanges I used on the dust shields but that wouldn't have gotten me as much street cred on the internets. I even added some stickers for extra cooling power. lol
Yeah, this is cheap flexible hose. It was less than $50 for enough to do fronts and rears. It has helped a lot. I had driven on my worn (~3mm left) XP10s through last fall and winter on the street and rarely got a chance to transfer any pad material back onto the rotors after mild street driving took it off. So, for last week's HPDE, I had installed a new set of XP10s and thought I would try to bed them in at the track. At the end of 2 cold and wet sessions where I drove fairly hard, only the outer half of both front and rear rotors really show much evidence of pad transfer, lol. Yeah, these things kept the brakes really cool. Probably too cool for the conditions!
Here is a video of one of the sessions so you know I wasn't going easy on the brakes. https://youtu.be/Q-HPC389YVI
And yes, I thought long and hard about whether to mount it facing the underside of the car to help reduce lift. But I decided to reduce drag instead. The car needs all the help it can get when it gets into a battle royale with the air in Episodes IV, V, and VI of Shift Wars... lol. Plus, I believe the rad opening will feed a LOT more air to the hoses than front facing ducts further away from the centerline of the car. But there's no reason to fight about it. We can just install a y pipe and run both!
Dare me to throw a MAF sensor in the hose? hahahaha. Again, ain't nobody got time fo' dat. I just ran a shop vac in blower mode and felt a 'ton' of air come out from behind the rotor. Though, it didn't come out of the vanes as nicely as I had hoped. maybe it's different when the air pump is running, aka wheels turning. Or I may need to work on my air nozzle. Ideally, I'd get the fancy ones that basically seal the rotor center to the duct, but I am not, as they say, a baller.
Another added benefit is that these can be installed without taking the front bumper off. This also allows easier front bumper removal for the hardcore track guys.
05-02-2016, 09:06 PM
#10
Given the NACA duct's "likes" I wonder if it would actually work just as well or better mounted to the horizontal plastic undertray just ahead of each wheel (or into a splitter if you had one). That could also release pressure from where it builds under the front of the car ahead of each tire, reducing lift and drag.
