Saner swaybar or something similar yields the best results. if you're going to use OEM get the MY00-01 bar, but even with that, you will still experience slight oversteer (know from experience). Depends on personal preference.

-2.2 fr and -2.7-8 is standard camber for most S2000 running that setting.

Im using -3 fr and -2.8 rear now though. If you want the understeer stick with what's recommended above if you have to.

Would help to know what settings you run your coils on as well (both rebound FR/R and compression)

 

I have 255 all around with stock 01 sways, Custom valved Koni's and 700#f 600#r springs which are very similar in rate to the HKS setup. The car is a little lose but I havent started messing with the dampening yet, With the front and rear shocks on almost full stiff (my rear' are a little softer than the fronts when at the same setting due to my valving). Even just lowering my rear tire pressure 2psi really settled the tail down. I am extremely confident I will be able to dial out my oversteer.

Alignment specs (Camber -1.8f -2.8r) (toe .1 total toe out front, .2 total toe in rear)

So obviously I could use more toe in to settle the tail more as well.

Disclaimer (I like my car a little loose, not extremely loose but I hate understeer)

 

+1

The CR front bar won't be enough IMO, go with a bigger Saner bar. If you track your car alot, maybe also consider swapping out the springs.

Semi off-topic:

I am going to start advocating that people buy PROBE-type tire pyrometers. A probe-type pyrometer is as important as a tire pressure gauge and can tell you about how your tires are going to wear, if you need to change your camber or toe, or help explain your handling characteristics.

With that in mind, go buy one and start learning how to use it.

 

Just a FYI.

Yesterday @ streets, my friend mark and I swapped cars for a session.

Mark's car: AP2
KW CS 628/628
Saner bar middle setting
Alignment: -2.3f, -2.6r (I think, but pretty close)

My car: AP2
KW CS 571/571
01 Front sway
Alignment: -3.5f/r

it was unanimous that Mark's car had a greater propensity to oversteer, though you wouldn't think so. Moral of the story. Get your alignment correct fore you go chasing your setup via sways and spring rate. I have a feeling that even -3.5 might not be enough camber for a relatively softly sprung setup. Tires and alignement are crucial. Maximize that, and then tune the balance to your liking, otherwise you will be chasing your setup for ever. As Billy suggested, best way to do that is with a pyrometer.

-Dino

 

Theres a pretty big difference between middle and stiff setting, that's pretty odd. Any more info?

I found -3 camber to be pretty much money for my tire wear and heat generation.

I wonder why Marks car is such a large disparity, what settings was he running on the CS?

 

Damper settings make a big difference but having an extra degree of rear camber more than mark is HUGE. I would say that much rear camber greatly increases rear grip and stability but would probably also increase tire wear on the street.

 

Surprisingly not too bad in terms of street wear, but I also tend to enjoy the occasional onramp here and there.

The difference between my car and mark's wasn't dramatic, but was noticeable. It can easily be fixed, I was merely trying to make a point about setup.

On a side note, the 628# felt great, I think I'll be changing mine pretty soon.

Also, both mark and I were running 255 on 9.5 wheel.

 

So can the KW V3's stock valving handle a 628# spring? If so, would it be favorable for me to change my factory springs (515# all around) to a 628# spring? I'm also running a nonstaggered 255 set up at the moment with a Saner bar on the middle hole. I'm currently running on street tires (Star Specs), but would like to jump up to NT-01's in 275/40/17. My 515# springs would probably be too soft for this setup.

The car is really well balanced at the moment and I'm reluctant to change anything, but I know I need stiffer springs to run r comps. If the V3's can handle a 628# spring then I may just go that route.

 

For the short answer, yes. They can handle those rates. Anything closer to 700 is a no.

 

I agree with all the HKS statements. My car is undrivable on any freeway with the horizontal expansion joints like the 5 freeway or the 91 here in socal.