1. Stock S2000 Rotors
2. Stocek
3. Stoptech Pads same compound front and rear
4. Brake Bias has too much rear brake IMO, although it may just be too much heat as I wasn't running a duct in the rear but I am now.
5. No, not up this point. There was not a noticeable improvement in braking for me, but that was not why I did the swap. I did the swap only to get a bigger pad. Bigger pad = less heat in the pad = longer life.


I did alot of things wrong with my setup. I started off by just ordering a set of rebuilt calipers from Rock Auto. Huge mistake, they turned out to be rebuilt china knock off calipers. They were cast out of a cheaper metal and after installing them just driving the car around my shop they started leaking the day before i was supposed to leave for my 24 hour race in Colorado. So I called honda and bought what I thought were brand new oem calipers. Wrong again, they were also rebuilt calipers, but look much much much higher quality then what I got from RockAuto. Since I already milled the brackets I left them on the car and just replaced the caliper. Huge mistake number 3. the shit calipers and brackets are made of some kind of shit material that flexes, under heavy brake pressure you can see the whole caliper move in a twisting motion. So this means to me 1 of 2 things are wrong. The machined surface is not parallel to the rotor causing the caliper to flex (pull its self straight) or the bracket is just a POS and is flexing alot. Either way, this is causing 2 issues that exacerbate a 3rd. The third is the known problem, larger caliper = larger void inside caliper = longer pedal inside car. My additional 2 problems are caliper flex, which means even more pedal, and then the flex is causing the pad to taper which then lengthens the pedal even further.

So, when I have time I am gonna to reset the head on my mill, and tighten up the bed so I know its dead nuts, then machine the caliper mounting brackets that came with the new calipers and install those with better pads and hope for the best.

Suggestions:

Only buy the calipers from Honda. They arent really that much more expensive then whats on Rock Auto.
Make sure a quality machine shop does the work to the bracket. Don't just let joe schmoe at dipcuss inc. do them for you


Otherwise I think the setup has promise.

 

Just to clarify, a big brake kit or Accord calipers won't "improve braking" because the stock system works well until they start to overheat. A big brake kit improves how long the brakes work like they should without boiling the brake fluid or smearing your expensive pads.

 

You should definitely double-check fitment of the Accord V6 caliper on the stock S2000 wheels if that's why you want to go this route. I've never tried to put my stock S2000 wheels on my 2003 Accord V6's front axle, but I did test-fit a set of 17x9 TRM C3s (62 offset) and they weren't even close to fitting over the Accord's caliper. That and the extra 6 pounds of unsprung weight were reasons I backed off my plan to install Accord calipers.

 

Yes, but what I meant by improvement was not performance, I was talking the feel.


Accord has a different hub. The Accord Rotor doesn't fit the S2000 because the height is different, so the wheel to caliper clearance is irrelevant in regards to s2k with accord caliper fitment

 

The accord caliper with brand new Carbotech pads DOES clear the AP2V1 wheels by about a credit card's thickness. I've run this configuration on the street for 100's of miles (I don't drive the car on the street much) with no problems because I have my track tires on a different set of wheels (OZ allegeritta). The OZ's have tons of clearance due to the different spoke design compared to AP2V1. I'm not sure if the different AP2 version wheels have different spoke designs between each other, but I can vouch for the AP2V1's clearing enough to drive on the street. I personally wouldn't track the car on AP2V1's with full pad. After the pad is worn slightly, there should be more clearance.

Edit: I also run 949 6ULR 17x9 +63 offset and they clear with tons of room as well....thought I'd mention that too.

 

I'm unclear about what and why you milled the calipers...I didn't mill anything to make mine fit.


My calipers are 2003 Accord V6 Coupe manual trans pieces.

 

They will work with out milling them, but if you run the pad down super low one could potentially come out because the bracket isn't perfectly centered over the rotor. It's like 4mm off.

My car is an endurance car, so there is a chance I could run out of pads before the end of the race, I'd prefer to have shit brakes at this point rather then lock up and a potential big crash.


If it's a track car. You gotta mill it, if it's a street car you can run it, but keep an extra eye on your pad width

 

Ah! I understand.

I run the Racing Brake setup that uses the wider NSX rotor ring and the specific hat to center that ring in the caliper.

If re-milling doesn't work for you or still has too much flex, you could always start over with new calipers and use a shim 1-1.5mm (16-20 gauge) thick between the hub face and brake rotor to center it in the caliper. This is the configuration I have as my back up when the Racing brake rotors fail - and mine are long in the tooth as it is. User pmptx uses shims to center the OEM s2000 rotor in his accord calipers, you may contact him to see how he likes it.