Adjustable endlinks or stock?
#1
Adjustable endlinks or stock?
I have a set of adjustable end links and was wondering if there is any point?
From what I know you install one endlinks and then adjust the other side so there is no preload on the link
But the question is if there is no load on the sway bar doesn't it move freely up or down?
So where would the baseline be and benifit of adjustable over stock
From what I know you install one endlinks and then adjust the other side so there is no preload on the link
But the question is if there is no load on the sway bar doesn't it move freely up or down?
So where would the baseline be and benifit of adjustable over stock
#4
So there is a point but it only becomes relevant if you have lowered your car, or wish to properly corner balance it.
Think of the swaybar as a torsion spring. Its job is to resist the left and right suspension from moving independently of each other (as would happen when the body leans one way or the other since one side would need to compress while the other unloads)
When both sides of the suspension move up and down evenly then the bar moves freely with them and nothing happens.
When the bar is set properly at zero preload then when the car moves in one direction or the other, and the body wants to lean, it will immediately provide resistance, equally in either direction.
When the bar has pre-load, that load has a bias. It is either loaded to the left or the right. When the bar is in this condition, if you wish to go in the direction it is loaded, before it will begin doing its job of resisting body roll, it must first allow the body to travel enough to release the pre-load applied in the direction you are turning, then begin to load the bar in the direction away (where the body leans) you are turning before it will do its job and provide resistance.
Lowering the car and changing numerous other things such as corner balancing can have the effect of adding pre-load to the sway bar. Simply sitting in the car with only the driver can do this if you want to be pedantic (This is how you race after all).
The goal of adjustable endlinks is two-fold, 1: remove preload so the bar is in a neutral state after you have setup everything else; and 2: If your suspension geometry had changed dramatically due to lowering, you can re-level the bar with adjustable links to prevent it from contacting things (I know in some extreme cases miatas can see this problem)
Think of the swaybar as a torsion spring. Its job is to resist the left and right suspension from moving independently of each other (as would happen when the body leans one way or the other since one side would need to compress while the other unloads)
When both sides of the suspension move up and down evenly then the bar moves freely with them and nothing happens.
When the bar is set properly at zero preload then when the car moves in one direction or the other, and the body wants to lean, it will immediately provide resistance, equally in either direction.
When the bar has pre-load, that load has a bias. It is either loaded to the left or the right. When the bar is in this condition, if you wish to go in the direction it is loaded, before it will begin doing its job of resisting body roll, it must first allow the body to travel enough to release the pre-load applied in the direction you are turning, then begin to load the bar in the direction away (where the body leans) you are turning before it will do its job and provide resistance.
Lowering the car and changing numerous other things such as corner balancing can have the effect of adding pre-load to the sway bar. Simply sitting in the car with only the driver can do this if you want to be pedantic (This is how you race after all).
The goal of adjustable endlinks is two-fold, 1: remove preload so the bar is in a neutral state after you have setup everything else; and 2: If your suspension geometry had changed dramatically due to lowering, you can re-level the bar with adjustable links to prevent it from contacting things (I know in some extreme cases miatas can see this problem)
#5
The reason why I ask is because one side is much higher than the other even though they are at the same height on the coil. I disconnected it and thought the height would change. It didn't. Trying to figure out the problem
#6
Hmm that is unusual. Was your car in any accidents? Can you quantify "Much higher"?
Are you certain that the coilovers are the same length? Not just visible threads but spring preload as well. With both wheels off the ground, measure the length of the shock body and if they are still the same, then measure it at rest. If they are close both times then something is definitely wrong, I.E. your car is bent, possibly from an accident, or the swaybar has been deformed, or something is out of place.
If they are the same or similar extended, but change at rest, chances are someone pre-loaded the coil spring on only one of your coilovers.
Are you certain that the coilovers are the same length? Not just visible threads but spring preload as well. With both wheels off the ground, measure the length of the shock body and if they are still the same, then measure it at rest. If they are close both times then something is definitely wrong, I.E. your car is bent, possibly from an accident, or the swaybar has been deformed, or something is out of place.
If they are the same or similar extended, but change at rest, chances are someone pre-loaded the coil spring on only one of your coilovers.
#7
Former Moderator
The last time I corner balanced my car I disconnected the sway bars and when finished I reconnected them and the front Comptech adjustable bar set on 3 of 5 only had about 5 lbs of preload. The rear didn't change anything. I'm 1 inch lower than stock so there's no binding with the stock end links.
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