Get either done since both are reasonable (though I would prefer -1.5 up front), then figure out what is causing the oversteer if it persists. You don't want to cover up another problem (whether mechanical or driver).

 

Ha, lol ya I definantly don't wanna cover anything.



Here is what I have planned within the next month that should COMPLETELY fix the problem: (in order)

1.) New tires
2.) New shock (but I don't know what kind)
3.) Fat sway bar
4.) More driving experience


I will obviously be getting more but this is what I have planned for the time being.

Also,
Why would you prefer that?

 

Cause right now my two cars have -3.1 and -4.1 front camber for the track. More negative front camber works well with RA1's on the track. Better tire wear too (on track).

 

S2K,

Don't know if my reply comes in too late but I hope it helps either way.

You mentioned you need new tires next. I'm wondering what kind of tires you're running. Without somewhat decent tires you'll get oversteer even if both front and rear tires are equally bad. What about tire pressures? With severe oversteer, are the outermost tread blocks that take the most beating? Or the innermost tread blocks? Or are there any left on the inside?

A '00-01 tends towards oversteer but you should not get ALOT. Driving skills definitely play a big role in reducing oversteer. I don't know your driving skill level so I don't know how much does it contribute to your severe oversteer. New shocks and big-front-bar will help reduce oversteer, but your word of "ALOT" sounds like you need to work on something else first.

Assuming stock suspension, you need as much -ve camber as possible up front (not to tame down oversteer but you'll get better overall performance). Get 1.5 or whatever the most and equal on both sides. Sacrifice castor if needed to get max equal camber. Massive castor can increase oversteer but of course you don't reduce it just to reduce oversteer.

Can you elaborate on what situation does the car oversteer? Lift-throttle? Power-on? Reducing rear camber will tame-down power-on oversteer but will make lift-throttle oversteer much worse. A good range is between 2.0 and 2.5 depending on whether you want to tame down power-on oversteer or lift-throttle oversteer, respectively. Check rear tire wear for indication.

 

The guy did .25

 

0.25 degrees != 0.25 inches

 

Since you are using "off brand" tires you need to check the ACTUAL WIDTH of the tires, not the rated width. Many brands are narrower than others at the same rated size.

The stock tires are WIDER than the rated width. I ran the BFG KDs and even tho I went up two sizes on my rear tires they were still 1/2" narrower than stock. Since the fronts were very close to stock width and the rears were much narrower I got terminal oversteer like you are getting.

 

Just went in the garage and measured...

Front:8" (205/55/16 is what they're rated)


Rear:8.75"-9", couldnt tell for sure (245/45/16 is what they're rated)

 

Ha ha lol, ok thank you

 

Not sure about the sidewall strength of those tires, but isn't that 32# for the front a little low? I thought the plan was to run the rears a little lower than the fronts for autocross.

As for the alignment, I'm sure you'll feel the difference. Just try to be smooth with your inputs- both hands and feet. "Smooth is fast," says one of our local autocross hot shoes.