Another Brake Pad question
If you're discovering fade issues with the DS2500 and still want to save money over the Carbotechs, take Eric's advise and look to using just dedicated DS3000s/rotors for the track and use stock pads/rotors on the street. Stock pads are really ~$30-50 bucks (I don't know retail pricing for stock pads, just estimating over wholesale) and should last upwards of 50k miles on the street, depending on driving style.
*Sorry, forgot to answer that.. I'm not using shims.
Here's a discounted brake rotor/brake pad package to consider:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/862...nted-packages/
Cheers,
-- Chris
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/862...nted-packages/
Cheers,
-- Chris
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I can live with noise but not with the fear of rear ending someone on my way to class. How cautious would I have to be street driving xp10/8 on a 50 degree morning? Or is noise the only real issue? The reason I’m being so questionable is that I am considering the PFC or racing brake 2-piece rotors and don’t want to waste money bedding them in with pads I can’t drive on in between the track. I could also see buying the package deal from SoS.
the SoS package deals are actually not a bad price at all for what you get. I am considering them!
Proper bedding instructions for AX-Series & XP-Series Compounds :
1. All new brake pads require a bedding process, start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.
2. After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.
3. Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes.
NOTE: The proper way to bed your brake pads and brake discs (rotors) is to bed them on the racetrack, NOT on the street (excluding the Bobcat 1521 compound).
Warning: Failure to properly bed in your pads could lead to friction material to chunk and break up resulting in poor pad performance and pad life. Improper bedding can also lead to overheating your pads and causing them to glaze over resulting in the car not being able to stop or slow properly.
I think there is some confusion here.
There are two types of bedding being talked about. Bedding pads requires breaking them into to the track type temperatures so the pads don't degass while braking. This should be done before the track day or better yet buy them bedded from carbotech. You get more meat on the pad this way.
The other is building the friction surface on the rotor to match the pad. This can be done at the track on your warmup laps.
There are two types of bedding being talked about. Bedding pads requires breaking them into to the track type temperatures so the pads don't degass while braking. This should be done before the track day or better yet buy them bedded from carbotech. You get more meat on the pad this way.
The other is building the friction surface on the rotor to match the pad. This can be done at the track on your warmup laps.
I see a lot of people saying they run the popular combination of xp10 front and xp8 rear pads. Are you changing pads before and after the going to the track? I know running pads that will supposedly pull street and track duty tend to not do well on the track. I put ferodo ds2500 on my car now in an attempt to find a happy medium but they still leave me with fade and frustration on the track.
My question is whether or not it would be a good idea to run xp8 front and rear or xp10 front xp8 rear for dd and track duty. Also I see that PFC 97 compound has an operating temp range from 167F – 2000F. Would that make it another option?
I do about 5 track days per year but don’t put too many miles on my car in between (just to and from class, grocery store, and occasional back road session). I am 19 years old so I don’t care about noise or excessive dust, I am just sick of fade at the track.
My question is whether or not it would be a good idea to run xp8 front and rear or xp10 front xp8 rear for dd and track duty. Also I see that PFC 97 compound has an operating temp range from 167F – 2000F. Would that make it another option?
I do about 5 track days per year but don’t put too many miles on my car in between (just to and from class, grocery store, and occasional back road session). I am 19 years old so I don’t care about noise or excessive dust, I am just sick of fade at the track.
Jim







