jbird0007

This has probably been discussed extensively, but most of the info I'm finding is in regards to B-stock and STR specific racing, which doesn't really apply here.

EDIT: the clubs I run with only have a "Racing Tire" and "street tire" class, so I can make a lot of changes that, in other clubs (scca), would bump me out of STR or B-stock.

I have a nearly stock MY'00, save for Tein S-tech Springs and full exhaust. Got a "UK Spec" alignment last fall, which If I recall was -1.5F camber, -2R camber, zero front toe, 0.5 1/8" Toe in total in rear (all done at a reputable, s2ki recommended track shop). Stock ap1 wheels on Direzza ZII's.

I have about 2 years Autox experience (about 15+ events?) and looking to improve my times. I usually put down a few good runs at the start of the day, and then just get the same time over and over for the rest of the day; only improving about 2 or 3 seconds from my first run. I know my driving skill needs improvement, but I'm also looking for setup changes. Namely tire pressures and swaybars, and more if anyone suggests.

Right now Im considering (just from what I've read on this forum) is either removing the rear swaybar entirely, OR swapping it out for a Miata swaybar. Preferably a change I can make within 2 weeks. I've autocrossed quite a few times and never really made any set-up changes except for new tires and experimenting a little with tire pressures. I'm really worried I'm not getting the full performance out of this car, because I'm not improving much and still lagging ~1-2 seconds behind other s2k's at the track and ~5 seconds behind miatas

Thanks!!!

baZurk

You can tinker with your alignment as well. Please let me know if you can see the graphs below.

iamxpl

first thing is first.

Sway bar. you most def need one. thats the one mod most will agree with. since i dont know what the limitations are on modifications allowance in the club you run with, this would be a good choice since this will be legal for RTR ( road tire rwd stock class ) for SCCA. and disconnect the rear sway if you want. a saner bar is good piece to start with as its not too expensive. this will help you with the oversteer that the s2k is known for. after that its all about driving. def take a school. im in my first season of autocross and ive done about 13 events along with an evo school phase 1. it has improved me dramatically.

although you springs might be hurting you more than doing you any good. i would just mess around with tire pressure and alignment setting.

cheers! see my sig line for my thread.

jbird0007

For clarification, the class I run in will basically allow ANY and all mods as long as Im on street tires.

Just making sure I understand you correctly, you're saying I should get an UPGRADED front swaybar, and possibly disconnect the rear? Or are you saying I definitely should have a rear swaybar.

CKit

Turbo.

Or else just get one of the local hotshoes to either drive your car with you as a passenger to find the missing seconds or ride along to help you identify where you are losing the time.

Upgraded front and leaving the rear alone may pick you up a chunk of time. If you improve the roll (remember swaybars are also called "anti-roll" bars) then you can slalom quicker and pick up 0.5+ seconds per slalom. Disconnecting the rear can be done if you make up your roll resistance with spring rate, but otherwise I would try and bring the front up to speed first before slowing down the rear.

jguerdat

If you're improving by 2-3 seconds over the course of the day, you need seat time and/or the Evo schools (or similar) before many, if any, mods. If you were improving by .5 second or so, I'd suggest mods.

iamxpl

should have been more clear, but Ckit explained it in a much better way. get a bigger front bar, adjustable if possible. the saner bar is a popular choice due to its competitive price and should be plenty for a street tire class. i went over the top and got a gendron since i got it for a great price.

Conedodger

I agree with Jeff. If you are improving by seconds, you are not getting the full performance out of the driver. An Evo school would be money well spent. Or, as CKit mentioned, get a fast local driver to co-drive for a few events.

jbird0007

I agree with Jeff. If you are improving by seconds, you are not getting the full performance out of the driver. An Evo school would be money well spent. Or, as CKit mentioned, get a fast local driver to co-drive for a few events.
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I should rephrase. I'm improving by 2-3 seconds from my first, learning-the-course run, to my final run. Usually the second half of the day (4-5 runs) are all within a few tenths of a second.

I've tried co-drivers many times, I usually ask this guy MR who almost always gets FTD, he rode along in my car and had no input other than I had great car control and to just "be smooth and go faster" (he drives a NC MX5 and is ridiculously fast)

Conedodger

I guess the next question is what is the car doing? baZurk's chart will help lead you down the right path.

I've been running an AP1 on Eibach Pro Kit springs and sway bars, on street tires. I recently disconnected the rear bar (takes 5 minutes to disconnect one end link, something you can try between runs.) and set the alignment to -2deg F, -2.5deg R camber and 0 F, .25 R toe-in. This cured some serious oversteer issues. For tire pressures, I run 35F, 33R cold. The car is handling pretty well and is locally competitive. I've recently gone to BFG Rivals, 245 square on 9" rims. I will be adding a Saner front bar and probably putting the OEM rear bar back on.

I would still consider driver improvement though. I autocrossed for more than 10 years before taking an Evo school. Phase Two was an eye opener. I nearly won an SCCA National Tour immediately after completing Phase Two. It has been 22 years, 10 in an S2000, and I'm still learning.