Tests always outperform my brain...

 

http://tinypic.com/r/2yo92ti/8

http://tinypic.com/r/dng51g/8

Here is a pic of each tear in the boots. I don't see anyway the boots can contact something unless ballooned. The closest thing is the covers of the ebrake on the caliper. Even if it did contact Something I would think that the boot would be destroyed and not just have a small tear.

 

Are these autozone axles you guys are using the reman or the new? The new ones use thin shafts.

 

My right side boot tore apart on me while city driving. Some how the joint unaligned itself causing a loud grinding noise & immobilized my car. Replaced the diff just to realize i needed a new boot. Replaced axle wit re-manu from autozone. I granny shift so I'm also perplexed as to how these boots tear.

 

Bringing up old thread to get everyone’s opinion. In last year I torn 3 of outer driver boots. First one went last June. We put new OEM boot. 2 events later it went. We concluded something was with the axle-replaced with used but OEM axle from EBay. No issues for 5-6 events. This past weekend I tear the boot again.
Whats the current thinking on this topic? Heat?
I blame heat as I go through rear pads like crazy. Thinking to go to Urge rotors. Thanks S2Ki!

 

Its all that sand from NJMP. (Maybe)

Anyway, I try to clean my boots and have even used Shin-Etsu on them in the off season when I have time.

 

do you have any rear ducting, aleksey?

 

@freq that an interesting thought! Though I avoided any off-track adventures recently
@licelsior no ducting in the rear. I heard that with solid rotor it doesn’t help much?
Really debating to give a try to URGE rotors to see if it fixes the whole overheating/pad wear fiasco...

 

Is it melted or torn? I melted a boot when I burned up a wheel bearing. When I installed the new boot I over filled it with grease and it puked. I used the OEM metal ties to retain the boot to the axle. When it puked it didn't burst the boot. Measure the hub temperatures to see if its heat related. If you only have a boot problem on one side the side in question may be significantly hotter. FYI rear ducting saves the wheel bearings, pads, fluid, and wheel speed sensors not just the rotors.

 

Fast forwarding 1 year. I installed URGE rotors, also got a new suspension, and put brand new OEM axles. Destroyed the boot again on the new axle after 5 sessions at the NJMP track. Always the same drivers side. Could it be from some weird bearing overheating which doesn’t result in bearing destruction itself? Not sure what to do beyond changing the knuckle+bearing for brand new one but really can’t rationally explain why would that work. Any help would be much appreciated!