B Street Advice/Prep
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I have a 2006 that I have been autocrossing for about a year in BS and I have been using the following set up.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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I have a 2006 that I have been autocrossing for about a year in BS and I have been using the following set up.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
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Originally Posted by viccath5' timestamp='1437502116' post='23687994
interesting thread.
my setup for B street. RE-71Rs, 245/255. Gendron, 2 3/8 hollow on 3rd to softest, 0 toe and -2 camber on the front and 1/16 toe in and -2.2 camber on the rear. Re-valved Konis, usually 1/4 turn from full hard on front and 1/2 from full in rear but on rougher surfaces I add 1/4 turn from full hard. I really like the sway bar setting and the alignment but not so sure about the shocks. I haven't found any adjustment that really works much better than anything else. Not really sold on the Konis. Maybe I should go back to OEM for comparison.
I get a bit of under steer in the middle of sweepers but turns in good.
Would like to be able to get on throttle sooner coming out of sweepers. Might need to take away a bit of rear camber so I can induce a bit of oversteer. Any suggestions?
my setup for B street. RE-71Rs, 245/255. Gendron, 2 3/8 hollow on 3rd to softest, 0 toe and -2 camber on the front and 1/16 toe in and -2.2 camber on the rear. Re-valved Konis, usually 1/4 turn from full hard on front and 1/2 from full in rear but on rougher surfaces I add 1/4 turn from full hard. I really like the sway bar setting and the alignment but not so sure about the shocks. I haven't found any adjustment that really works much better than anything else. Not really sold on the Konis. Maybe I should go back to OEM for comparison.
I get a bit of under steer in the middle of sweepers but turns in good.
Would like to be able to get on throttle sooner coming out of sweepers. Might need to take away a bit of rear camber so I can induce a bit of oversteer. Any suggestions?
Have you tried softening the front damper rebound setting (the only setting you have on Konis)? Do it in a very large increment to test, as small changes on a damper are not always easy to feel at first. So try something a bit more dramatic and see how it works.
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I have a 2006 that I have been autocrossing for about a year in BS and I have been using the following set up.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
I cant imagine you lifting a tire with that bar, or even the stiffest Gendron most likely. I dont know any serious autocrossers that run anything less stiff than a Moddiction\Saner bar for very long. I have also never seen one lift a front tire in a BS setup even with the Gendron on full stiff. Maybe others have, but not I.
You mention you are lifting an inside REAR tire? I have never seen that on an S2000. Are you sure you didnt mean front? If lifting the inside rear, your diff is then open and I can imagine the car behaves horribly. And if you are lifting or near lifting the inside rear, you are nowhere close to lifting the inside front. You dont have enough grip to be lifting both inside wheels at once, so any lift would be mostly due to weight transfer and bar setups, which will typically lift one or the other, but not both.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: AZ
Originally Posted by engifineer
I cant imagine you lifting a tire with that bar, or even the stiffest Gendron most likely. I dont know any serious autocrossers that run anything less stiff than a Moddiction\Saner bar for very long. I have also never seen one lift a front tire in a BS setup even with the Gendron on full stiff. Maybe others have, but not I. You mention you are lifting an inside REAR tire? I have never seen that on an S2000. Are you sure you didnt mean front? If lifting the inside rear, your diff is then open and I can imagine the car behaves horribly. And if you are lifting or near lifting the inside rear, you are nowhere close to lifting the inside front. You dont have enough grip to be lifting both inside wheels at once, so any lift would be mostly due to weight transfer and bar setups, which will typically lift one or the other, but not both.
He posted inside front tire in his post.
I've lifted an inside front with a saner on full stiff and CR shocks/springs, 04' rear bar & typical stock height alignment.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: AZ
Originally Posted by viccath5
interesting thread. my setup for B street. RE-71Rs, 245/255. Gendron, 2 3/8 hollow on 3rd to softest, 0 toe and -2 camber on the front and 1/16 toe in and -2.2 camber on the rear. Re-valved Konis, usually 1/4 turn from full hard on front and 1/2 from full in rear but on rougher surfaces I add 1/4 turn from full hard. I really like the sway bar setting and the alignment but not so sure about the shocks. I haven't found any adjustment that really works much better than anything else. Not really sold on the Konis. Maybe I should go back to OEM for comparison. I get a bit of under steer in the middle of sweepers but turns in good. Would like to be able to get on throttle sooner coming out of sweepers. Might need to take away a bit of rear camber so I can induce a bit of oversteer. Any suggestions?
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From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by viccath5
interesting thread. my setup for B street. RE-71Rs, 245/255. Gendron, 2 3/8 hollow on 3rd to softest, 0 toe and -2 camber on the front and 1/16 toe in and -2.2 camber on the rear. Re-valved Konis, usually 1/4 turn from full hard on front and 1/2 from full in rear but on rougher surfaces I add 1/4 turn from full hard. I really like the sway bar setting and the alignment but not so sure about the shocks. I haven't found any adjustment that really works much better than anything else. Not really sold on the Konis. Maybe I should go back to OEM for comparison. I get a bit of under steer in the middle of sweepers but turns in good. Would like to be able to get on throttle sooner coming out of sweepers. Might need to take away a bit of rear camber so I can induce a bit of oversteer. Any suggestions?
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Originally Posted by robinson' timestamp='1437518788' post='23688334
Originally Posted by viccath5
interesting thread. my setup for B street. RE-71Rs, 245/255. Gendron, 2 3/8 hollow on 3rd to softest, 0 toe and -2 camber on the front and 1/16 toe in and -2.2 camber on the rear. Re-valved Konis, usually 1/4 turn from full hard on front and 1/2 from full in rear but on rougher surfaces I add 1/4 turn from full hard. I really like the sway bar setting and the alignment but not so sure about the shocks. I haven't found any adjustment that really works much better than anything else. Not really sold on the Konis. Maybe I should go back to OEM for comparison. I get a bit of under steer in the middle of sweepers but turns in good. Would like to be able to get on throttle sooner coming out of sweepers. Might need to take away a bit of rear camber so I can induce a bit of oversteer. Any suggestions?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: AZ
Originally Posted by Fokker
Car has an '07 stock according to profile and assumption of BStreet rules.
I think this is an often forgotten item to list and think about.