I just added vents thru the faux ducts using 2.5" ducting. I'd stick a couple pix in, but something's wrong and I can't get to my albums. Just took the car to Thunderhill yesterday and I was very curious how well they would work. It was a warm one (103 deg) so a good day for a test. Bottom line, after a 30-minute session, ending with a cool-down lap, the rear rotors were at ~ 450 deg, and the fronts were at ~ 250 deg. I didn't do a before and after, but I know the fronts used to run hotter than the rears. So they definitely work. Now, maybe I need to vent the rears.

Only glitch, I didn't have full clearance. If I turned fully, I got rubbing. On the track it's not an issue, but in the paddock I had to keep reminding myself not to turn too sharp. Looking back at other pix, I see I didn't route the ducts exactly as shown, but it's close.

For reference, I'm running 17 x 235 RA-1's on the standard CE28N Volks rims (17x7.5 +50).

I'll follow up with the photos soon.

 

Here are the photos. (Turns out my membership had expired.)





You can see the rub point in the second photo. Need to get it down and under the upper arm, I guess.

 

With stock wheels, tire size, and suspension, it is possible to route 3" ducting so that it doesn't rub. 2.5" should be easier. YMMV if your car is not stock.

 

Yes, exactly. It needs to be under the upper arm, not next to it.

 

Is Go Fast Lab or someone going to sell a good kit that works well with race tire widths? If there was a reliable kit source, I could submit to the SCCA to get it allowed for T2, and they have already told me it would be approved as long as the kit was well done (i.e. don't have to worry about it causing problems or debris during a race). It would have to be from a business and not just JoeSmo selling them out of the back of his garage.

 

Yeah, mine were in the same place before I figured out they rub. However, if you push them even more toward the back so the cutout can only be a half circly, you can squish the line enough so it doesn't rub but allows enough air flow. I saw an install like this that worked ok.

I just need to get my hands on some extra inner fender well covers b/c mine are full of holes from experimenting

 

Hah! I can relate to that.

I just re-routed mine a little and added a third zip tie to keep the vent below the upper A-arm and the A-arm bracket (visible in the very top center of this picture). Added some duct tape to protect the rubbing point, just in case this doesn't completely fix it.



Stuart

 

So how many feet of tubings is needed for the fronts?

It seems 2.5" tubing will work?

 

I used 3.5 ft per side. You might squeak by with 3 ft.

 

And yes, the 2.5" tubing seems to work just fine. It was 103 deg F at my last track day, and I was getting on the brakes pretty hard. As I mentioned, the rotors were at ~220F in the paddock after the sessions. I'm very happy with that.