Building up a CRX for next year, need help with set-up
09-25-2001, 07:23 PM
#11
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ITR Racer
[B]This is what i would do with a limited budget:
Coilovers : Koni adjustables with Eibach ERS, good reliable and fast.
[B]This is what i would do with a limited budget:
Coilovers : Koni adjustables with Eibach ERS, good reliable and fast.
09-29-2001, 02:50 PM
#14
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Sev,
If you go with the CRX and want to stay in budget, some things to consider are:
Spring rates - 400-500 lbs/in front and 700-1000 lbs/in rear. Believe me. I started with 780/560 and I'm changing to 500/560. That should be fine for my skills and also I roadrace, so I don't want the car so loose as I would in slower auto-x situations.
Sway bars - disconnect and remove the front, stiffest possible in the rear. I have a cheap ST bar that has three different positions for a modicum of adjustability.
Shocks - stick with Konis mainly because they are well known, reasonably priced and even rebuildable. The double adjustables are nice, but since you're just starting, the rebound only models will work. If you want to spend a bit more $$$ and make life easier, just buy threaded body shocks to begin with instead of trying to mix and match spring collars, etc.
In terms of engines, depends on your rules. Here in the U.S. you must retain the stock engine and you aren't allowed to far into the head. However, induction side is free and the top guys run ITBs and aftermarket engine management (Electromotive TecII usually). You could start with a good Zdyne or Hondata setup though and then add the other stuff later. Simple bumping timing, opening up the intake and adding a header will get you a good 12-15 hp though. My car bone stock made 103 to the wheels (vs. 108 rated at the crank!).
Oh yeah, get a good LSD. Quaiffe is great, but OPM in Atlanta makes a cheaper, but very effective conversion. I have one in my garage I could sell you (I have a Quaiffe now). Camber adjusters for the front are useful too. I use Ingalls.
UL
If you go with the CRX and want to stay in budget, some things to consider are:
Spring rates - 400-500 lbs/in front and 700-1000 lbs/in rear. Believe me. I started with 780/560 and I'm changing to 500/560. That should be fine for my skills and also I roadrace, so I don't want the car so loose as I would in slower auto-x situations.
Sway bars - disconnect and remove the front, stiffest possible in the rear. I have a cheap ST bar that has three different positions for a modicum of adjustability.
Shocks - stick with Konis mainly because they are well known, reasonably priced and even rebuildable. The double adjustables are nice, but since you're just starting, the rebound only models will work. If you want to spend a bit more $$$ and make life easier, just buy threaded body shocks to begin with instead of trying to mix and match spring collars, etc.
In terms of engines, depends on your rules. Here in the U.S. you must retain the stock engine and you aren't allowed to far into the head. However, induction side is free and the top guys run ITBs and aftermarket engine management (Electromotive TecII usually). You could start with a good Zdyne or Hondata setup though and then add the other stuff later. Simple bumping timing, opening up the intake and adding a header will get you a good 12-15 hp though. My car bone stock made 103 to the wheels (vs. 108 rated at the crank!).
Oh yeah, get a good LSD. Quaiffe is great, but OPM in Atlanta makes a cheaper, but very effective conversion. I have one in my garage I could sell you (I have a Quaiffe now). Camber adjusters for the front are useful too. I use Ingalls.
UL
09-30-2001, 06:24 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Sev,
If you go with the CRX and want to stay in budget, some things to consider are:
Spring rates - 400-500 lbs/in front and 700-1000 lbs/in rear.
[B]Sev,
If you go with the CRX and want to stay in budget, some things to consider are:
Spring rates - 400-500 lbs/in front and 700-1000 lbs/in rear.
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