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The bushing round up

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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 03:22 PM
  #11  
sweetdill's Avatar
 
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Originally Posted by jr94513
Why do you say the hardrace rca has poor fitment? I have that on mine and fits fine.
People were having issues with the included hardware being inconsistent in size and hardness, The bolts don't have the same thick shoulder as the OEM ones so there is room for the RCA to shift. The castle nut is too short so that the cotter pin doesn't actually lock into the castle nut, and the castle nut is not the same size and thread pitch as OEM. In the end I had to purchase all new hardware for these to work.

When I installed mine the castle nut torqued down/bottomed out on the small shelf on the RCA's shaft instead of the LCA (basically the taper is not the right shape and penetrates the LCA too far), I had to add a washer with an I.D. larger than the shelf on the RCA's shaft to get the castle nut properly torqued to the LCA.

Some quotes from the 14 page thread about these RCA's:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/885...e+rca__st__250

Originally Posted by ITR
My hardrace flange bolts were also too short (~39mm) vs OEM (~37mm). You can see they do not fully thread the knuckle.


So after many hours of digging without success, I scoured the Honda parts bin and found this!

It is a 45mm flange bolt from Honda Civic Si engine mount (90165-SDA-A00 BOLT, FLANGE (12X45)). It does have "10" marking on top of bolt but not sure if it is zinc coated for rust prevention.

I guess you can also use the following (not confirmed)
90397-SNA-A00 BOLT, FLANGE (12X51) <--- this one is 51mm if you want it a little longer, almost sure these will fit fine too
90174-TK6-000 BOLT, FLANGE (12X45) <--- from Honda CR-Z engine mount
90174-TM5-000 BOLT, FLANGE (12X45) <--- from Honda CR-Z engine mount

Notice how they fit nicely!
Originally Posted by sweetdill
Originally Posted by f20kills' timestamp='1338566371' post='21746282
See if you can find a "taller" castle nut. I noticed that the J's one is taller compared to the other brands.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/885...t__p__21004069
Does anyone know the front Hardrace castle nut's size and thread pitch? It looks like M14 x 1.5mm TP, the nut would need to be 20mm tall
In the rear the Hardrace castle nut is the same size and thread pitch as OEM, so I just re-used my existing castle nuts to cure Hardrace's short nut syndrome,
but the front nut is a different thread pitch than OEM...


As far as sourcing other OEM bolts to mount the RCA to the knuckle, It would be nice to find a part number for bolts that have an enlarged shoulder like the original bolts do, see the shoulder on the one on the left? I found 60 mm OEM bolts that do and could work, but it would be nice to find some in 50mm.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 04:13 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by boyguan
the fronts with the shoulder have to be burned? i thought ive seen them just pressed out before?
I pressed mine out, no burning necessary.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 10:40 PM
  #13  
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I just got every bushing energy suspension makes for our car, entire front, rear, and diff set. Everything shipped for $300.00; can't beat that. If I run into issues with the compliance bushings, then I'll get the powerflex ones, but for the rest of them I don't see a reason to pay two, three or more times more than what energy suspension costs (plus they are made in the States). Prothane is also a good value for the money in my opinion, but they cover less points then energy suspension.
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Old Apr 15, 2015 | 10:44 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by sweetdill
Originally Posted by jr94513' timestamp='1429127143' post='23579063
Why do you say the hardrace rca has poor fitment? I have that on mine and fits fine.
People were having issues with the included hardware being inconsistent in size and hardness, The bolts don't have the same thick shoulder as the OEM ones so there is room for the RCA to shift. The castle nut is too short so that the cotter pin doesn't actually lock into the castle nut, and the castle nut is not the same size and thread pitch as OEM. In the end I had to purchase all new hardware for these to work.

When I installed mine the castle nut torqued down/bottomed out on the small shelf on the RCA's shaft instead of the LCA (basically the taper is not the right shape and penetrates the LCA too far), I had to add a washer with an I.D. larger than the shelf on the RCA's shaft to get the castle nut properly torqued to the LCA.
I thought they addressed all the issues with the newer kits they are sending out now
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 11:10 AM
  #15  
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That's correct, I have one of the new kits and had no issues with the castle nut or bolts. But I do recall that thread about the castle nut being too small...
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Old Apr 17, 2015 | 05:34 AM
  #16  
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I run the graphite ES bushing all around except for the front lower compliance which is powerflex. Zero bind and everything feels nice and tight with zero noise
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