On the first post you mention their weight compared to KW V3 and SRC. Do you know how much lighter these are than the OEM shocks? Or how much lighter your set up with springs is than the complete OEM coilover? Thanks.

 

I never weighed the OEM dampers but I do remember someone saying how much they weigh or what the difference was somewhere in this thread.

 

I'm still trying to figure out a novel sway bar mounting solution so I can use the Ankeny bar with these and then I'll order them if I'm satisfied that I got it...think I've got one but still need to make sure it's strong enough.

I am curious if anyone else ended up getting these and what they think. Still liking them Mac?

 

Why not just run high spring rates and less bar? You could sell or trade your bar to offset some cost and potentially have better performance, no?

 

You need a front sway bar, for autocross there's no way you'll make it without a front sway bar. You'd need like 1500-2000 lb/in springs otherwise. I could go to a sway bar with more clearance but I really like the Ankeny bar since it makes it easier to tinker mid-autocross. I think I'll get it figured out, and if I don't these Ohlins seem good but not so good that I'll give up other parts of my setup that I like.

 

You need a front sway bar, for autocross there's no way you'll make it without a front sway bar. You'd need like 1500-2000 lb/in springs otherwise. I could go to a sway bar with more clearance but I really like the Ankeny bar since it makes it easier to tinker mid-autocross. I think I'll get it figured out, and if I don't these Ohlins seem good but not so good that I'll give up other parts of my setup that I like.
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I'm telling yah Jon, just have Guy make you a set of 8300's.

 

How bad is the clearance issue with the Ankeny Bar and the Ohlins? Where does it rub?

Anyone have any photos?

Are there any clearance issues with the Ankeny Bar and other coilovers? KW etc..

Thanks

 

The Ankeny sway bar comes in at a steep angle from the center of the car outwards towards the shocks. It rubs on the shock body on the back inside corner of the body, at the height that the sway bar is mounted (endlink length above the control arm)

It's really bad with the ohlins...like literally you won't even be able to put it on because they'd have to take up the same space. I'm experimenting with attaching the bar under the control arm, which I think will work but that means I need a long spacer and I'm worried about it breaking from fatigue. Like I said I'm pretty confident I'll figure something out.

Even with my Penskes it's reeeeeaaally close mounted in the normal spot, and the ohlins are quite a bit bigger in diameter than most shocks.

Not sure how other brands compare to Penske in terms of body diameter. I'd guess they're all pretty similar. I could measure my Penskes again, basically if they're any bigger than that you might have issues.


Yeah that'll probably be my second choice if i can't get the ohlins to work...

 

The clearance issue is the same with the Gendron Bar as Sirbunz has shown with his pictures. He had to have his swaybar arms milled down and buy new endlinks to improve the clearance. The base of the shock body is what is too big and is a problem with most swaybars.

 

The clearance issue is the same with the Gendron Bar as Sirbunz has shown with his pictures. He had to have his swaybar arms milled down and buy new endlinks to improve the clearance. The base of the shock body is what is too big and is a problem with most swaybars.



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The endlinks he went to are the ones Gendron currently supplies, and I think new Gendron bars might actually work. The reason his didn't work was because it was an old Gendron design. I haven't tried test fitting my Gendron bar to compare clearance but it's definitely better than the Ankeny bar. Worst case it might still need a little milling, but that's not hard to do, unlike the Ankeny bar which you can't mill it down since it's a blade.