The clearance issue is the same with the Gendron Bar as Sirbunz has shown with his pictures. He had to have his swaybar arms milled down and buy new endlinks to improve the clearance. The base of the shock body is what is too big and is a problem with most swaybars.



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Take a look at the first photo. See the hole in the top of the control arm just behind the Sway Bar arm.

Why not put and eye bolt through that hole or an machined aluminum L bolted to the arm with a bolt through that hole. Then you put the Link on the opposite side of the arm. No more clearance issue.

You could even get fancy and bolt to the control arm an aluminum bar with matching multiple holes directly under and parallel to the Sway arm.

 

I doubt the steel in that area is strong enough to handle the loads a sway bar can generate. But it's an interesting idea.

 

The clearance issue is the same with the Gendron Bar as Sirbunz has shown with his pictures. He had to have his swaybar arms milled down and buy new endlinks to improve the clearance. The base of the shock body is what is too big and is a problem with most swaybars.



[/quote]

Take a look at the first photo. See the hole in the top of the control arm just behind the Sway Bar arm.

Why not put and eye bolt through that hole or an machined aluminum L bolted to the arm with a bolt through that hole. Then you put the Link on the opposite side of the arm. No more clearance issue.

You could even get fancy and bolt to the control arm an aluminum bar with matching multiple holes directly under and parallel to the Sway arm.
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Keep in mind the Gendron isn't really a problem (I don't think...and even if it is, it's not my problem ), it's the Ankeny bar, which mounts at the end of the sway bar arm, not to the side. So the sway bar arm length is fixed and can't be changed. And the arm itself contacts the bar, not the bolt/nut/end link. And that arm is a blade, and therefore is not something I can make custom length without spending a fortune on custom machining.

EDIT: I think I figured out what you were actually saying. Mount the sway bar to the lightening hole in the control arm instead of the sway bar mount. That thought had crossed my mind but again for the Ankeny bar it won't work since it's actually the arm that contacts, plus it's at a greater angle than even the gendron which is the problem, so unless I made a custom bar where I changed the angle of the blade coming out from the bar itself to be less to the outside of the car that wouldn't work since the blade is over by the shock so you'd have to put the endlink at a huge angle to get over there.. Rewelding the blade mount is an interesting idea but I don't think I'd do that because as cracknut said, I don't think that lightening hole is meant to take 1000 lbs of force. Plus it would change the motion ratio since it's further in so you'd actually need an even stiffer bar, which it definitely wouldn't take the force of. However I might be able to use that hole as a secondary mounting point to help strengthen what I'm already doing, so thanks for the idea...

Maybe I'll take some pictures this weekend of what I'm trying, like I said I think it'll work I just need to iron out the details of how to make it strong enough.

 

I see this picture a bit different as well. I like the suggestion, but think the location won't work. Putting hardware that far up the control arm might work, but it may also take a stronger swaybar (and hardware to accommodate) to provide the same resistance. Further out on the control (where the OEM links connect) are would be more direct and give the swaybar more control. Moving the endlink further in would have less control arm movement and give more leverage to the arm over the swaybar.

-Marc

 

The clearance issue is the same with the Gendron Bar as Sirbunz has shown with his pictures. He had to have his swaybar arms milled down and buy new endlinks to improve the clearance. The base of the shock body is what is too big and is a problem with most swaybars.



[/quote]

Take a look at the first photo. See the hole in the top of the control arm just behind the Sway Bar arm.

Why not put and eye bolt through that hole or an machined aluminum L bolted to the arm with a bolt through that hole. Then you put the Link on the opposite side of the arm. No more clearance issue.

You could even get fancy and bolt to the control arm an aluminum bar with matching multiple holes directly under and parallel to the Sway arm.
[/quote]

Maybe I'm dense but I'm not getting it. It sounds like you're saying to use a shorter sway bar arm than the Gendron (or drill new holes further up on the gendron), and move the endlink forwards by using an L bracket mounted to the sway bar mounting point on the control arm. Then the end of the L bracket would be the new sway bar mounting point. That would work but it would need a custom shorter sway bar arm and the bar itself would have to be made much softer to compensate for the shorter arm stiffening the rate.

If I'm misunderstanding what you're saying let me know.

Which isnt' a bad solution if you don't mind making custom sway bars, but keep in mind the Gendron isn't really a problem, it's the Ankeny bar, which mounts at the end of the sway bar arm, not to the side. So the sway bar arm length is fixed and can't be changed. And the arm itself contacts the bar, not the bolt/nut/end link. And that arm is a blade, and therefore is not something I can make custom length without spending a fortune on custom machining.

What I did is actually a variant of what I think you're saying, but it requires moving the mounting to under the sway bar to keep the arm length constant without hitting the arm on the bar. I'll take some pictures this weekend, both to show what i'm trying and also to show the problem.
[/quote]

You have misunderstood.
Lower Control arm = Lower A arm

Take a look at the first photo. See the hole in the top of the control arm (lower a arm) just behind or in board from the Sway Bar arm. This is the open hole you can see going through the top of the control arm .

You do nothing to the Sway Bar arm.

You attach the sway bar link to the opposite side of the sway bar arm from where it is in the picture. That is; the side opposite the Ohlin coilover. Then you do not use the existing tab on the control arm (A Arm) that the sway link is attached to in the picture.

Instead you attach the Sway link to:
* An eye bolt that you have put through the hole in the Control arm (lower A arm) I referenced above
* Or you can machine an aluminum L and then bolt it to the arm with a bolt through that hole in the A arm. Drill a hole in the aluminum L to which you attach the link.

* If you think the surrounding area to the hole is not strong enough and/or the location of the aluminum L is not optimal then bolt an aluminum/steel plate to the top of the A Arm that goes out to the far edges of the A arm then weld a tab on to the top of the plate in the optimal location for the link.

 

Crap, you got my post before I major edited it. Yeah I figured out what you were saying, check my post again.

The problem is that the sway bar arm is in a bad location and the shock body is too big and conflicts with that location - I understand your solution doesn't require moving the arm but if you don't move the arm it doesn't help much or at all.

With the Gendron arm, it's still right next to the shock and you still need a nut on the other side. You save a little space because the heim joint switches sides of the arm but you don't save much because you still need the nut on the side of the shock, and the arm is still really close. With the style of heim joint that has the bolt as part of the joint you probably don't save anything because its width is comparable to a nut.

With the Ankeny, you don't save anything by moving the mount - the arm still hits the shock. If the arm hits the shock, you have to move the arm.

Unless I'm still misunderstanding.

 

Just to reiterate what Sirbunz said, the lightening hole in the a-arm gives up a lot of leverage compared to the much more outboard stock end link mounting hole. You'd have to stiffen up your sway bar settings a lot to get the same leverage. With the amount of force at the lightening hole aluminum would not be strong enough. You'd have to beef up the area around the hole with steel. Bottom line is I don't think it would work.

 

What about shorter end links?
Can you cut the existing ones down a bit?

 

http://www.penskeshocks.com/files/TS...8inches%29.pdf

I'd love to find info about the bumpstops PSI uses like the info above.

 

Good idea but unfortunately can't go any shorter on the end links and have enough thread engagement between them