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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #321  
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I take it custom chromoly lower control arms are out of the question due to rules?
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by Antonov
I take it custom chromoly lower control arms are out of the question due to rules?

Yep you got it. Cant change the control arm in any way, no drilling it, no welding it, no replacing it. I can do whatever I want to the "sway bar" though
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:52 PM
  #323  
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From: Emmett
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lol not sure what I was thinking there hahaha.
What about a regular damper in front instead of an inline? Not sure if that's possible but it might give you the clearance.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by macr88
lol not sure what I was thinking there hahaha.
What about a regular damper in front instead of an inline? Not sure if that's possible but it might give you the clearance.
Does ohlins sell a ttx remote? I didn't think they did
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 08:55 AM
  #325  
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It would be like the rear damper but they'd use a longer body and shaft.
Not sure if it would work but its another idea.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 12:08 PM
  #326  
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That's a good point, maybe they could do a piggyback like in the rear...I'll ask.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by IntegraR0064
OK so this is the general idea of what I'm trying to do. It's almost really good. It actually held up really well in normal "fairly spirited" street driving, with one blade set to full stiff and the other set to full soft. No evidence of any clearance issues or damage.

Overall view from front corner:



Closer front view:



Side Close up, left is front of the car




.
It would be very nice if you could press a pillow ball bearing into the hole that the link goes into on the A Arm. Then bolt the end of the blade directly through and to it thereby eliminating the heim link all together. Looks like the angle is different and the bar needs to be higher.
Is there a way to machine a housing that a bearing could be pressed into then attach one side to the A Arm link hole and the other side has the bearing that the end of the blade goes through?
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 12:49 PM
  #328  
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Well if I move it up it moves backward too. At ~2.5" above the sway bar mount hole it's directly above the hole, but with the bolt part going diagonally towards the shock which is the problem. If it were at sway bar mount hole height it'd be a bit in front of it, probably half way closer to it than it is now.

The thought crossed my mind to machine a ridiculously short endlink...basically a short bar with two spherical bearings pressed in. And mount it on the front side of the sway bar mount hole. Of course I'd give up adjustable preload, plus I really don't know how much articulation it needs...whether just a bearing that doesn't move to provide misalignment is enough, or if it actually needs a length of end link to articulate on. Anyone know if having an end link is actually necessary, or if theoretically mounting it in a bearing like markhs2 says would be enough if I could theoretically achieve it? I suspect it needs to articulate some.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 12:50 PM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by macr88
It would be like the rear damper but they'd use a longer body and shaft.
Not sure if it would work but its another idea.
After looking at this more I'm not sure there's room for a piggyback because of the steering. How much does it stick out from the shock body, and how tall is it?
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #330  
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Thinking further about my idea I'm not sure it would work.

The problem is that as the A arm articulates through it's range of motion it moves closer to and farther away from the sway arm as the A Arm moves from horizontal position through incline and decline. It would need articulation to make it through that movement.
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