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Camber adjustment question

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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Default Camber adjustment question

So I have come to the firm conclusion I need more camber front and rear than the stock adjustment will allow for; the real question is how do I go about it. I am looking for personal experience that would point me to or away from one of these paths.

Option 1: SPC camber joints front and rear. These seem decent enough, will get me the adjustment I need and are also the least expensive option

Option 2: SPC in the rear, and hardrace / Js lower offset joints in the front. This solution is nearly 50% more money and since the car isn't lowered I am not in need of any roll center adjustment, so is there a reason to spend the extra money for this option?

Option 3???? perhaps there is something out there that is just awesome I am unaware of.


I currently intend to finish this year out staying in S2K Challenge stock class, so I'm not after any solutions that will move me to a different class.


Thanks in advance for any help

-Ryan
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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I ran SPC joints in the front for 2 seasons with about 4.5 deg camber and left the rear alone at the 3.whatever it was.
I would be surprised if you needed more than the stock max was in the rear.

The other option is to run aftermarket upper control arms with adjustable camber like the old TC Design ones that I run now.

J's racing??? overrated in my opinion

On the SPC Joints I kinda had to set the camber then crank the crap out of them cause they would move. They even started to strip but I cant remember what I did to fix that.
if you could get them "Bottomed" out ie max camber and have it in the spec your looking for that would help.

Originally Posted by anorexicpoodle
So I have come to the firm conclusion I need more camber front and rear than the stock adjustment will allow for; the real question is how do I go about it. I am looking for personal experience that would point me to or away from one of these paths.

Option 1: SPC camber joints front and rear. These seem decent enough, will get me the adjustment I need and are also the least expensive option

Option 2: SPC in the rear, and hardrace / Js lower offset joints in the front. This solution is nearly 50% more money and since the car isn't lowered I am not in need of any roll center adjustment, so is there a reason to spend the extra money for this option?

Option 3???? perhaps there is something out there that is just awesome I am unaware of.


I currently intend to finish this year out staying in S2K Challenge stock class, so I'm not after any solutions that will move me to a different class.


Thanks in advance for any help

-Ryan
Reply
Old Feb 4, 2012 | 05:11 PM
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Right now ive got it maxed out at -1.8 front and -2 rear since the car is stock height, and I was looking to get -3 all around (at least until I drive it there and want to change something), which is why I'm looking for a solution for all 4 corners.

My intention was to max the SPC's out and then dial it back using the stock adjustment points, since the -1.5 the SPC's bring will get me very close to the spec I'm looking for.

At the price of the SPC pieces, I don't actually mind replacing them every few years as a wear item if they strip out.



Originally Posted by crash
I ran SPC joints in the front for 2 seasons with about 4.5 deg camber and left the rear alone at the 3.whatever it was.
I would be surprised if you needed more than the stock max was in the rear.

The other option is to run aftermarket upper control arms with adjustable camber like the old TC Design ones that I run now.

J's racing??? overrated in my opinion

On the SPC Joints I kinda had to set the camber then crank the crap out of them cause they would move. They even started to strip but I cant remember what I did to fix that.
if you could get them "Bottomed" out ie max camber and have it in the spec your looking for that would help.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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I would just do that until your ready to step up to a full setup.
maxing the SPC's out like you said will make it very easy to setup.

For my car I run 4.5 front and 3.5-4 rear.
sometimes its more or less but that seems good
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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Personally, I'd go hardrace on the fronts and SPC's in the rear. I have had my SPC's slip on me a couple of times. Its nearly impossible to torque them to the 125lb without rounding the top nut. You can play with the plates to get them to sort of lock but you won't be able to max them out that way. I was able to get plenty of rear camber with them on stock suspension.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I pulled the trigger on the SPC's, of course we will see if I regret this or not later, and If so ill be back for a set of hardrace balljoints. I guess if the SPC's slipping is that big of a concern, I could probably just weld them into the full negative position which is likely where they are going to get set.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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I discovered today that my spc's have worn the mounting hole. I tried to press in a stock balljoint and I could push it in and out by hand. I'm thinking that the spc joint's bottom plate may have been rocking back and forth in the mounting hole, slowly eroding it. I can feel a distinct ridge where the bottom plate ended.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SC_Highlander
I discovered today that my spc's have worn the mounting hole. I tried to press in a stock balljoint and I could push it in and out by hand. I'm thinking that the spc joint's bottom plate may have been rocking back and forth in the mounting hole, slowly eroding it. I can feel a distinct ridge where the bottom plate ended.
If you have it available, could you post an image of the damage?
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 11:02 PM
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That is interesting Highlander.
I have my old arms with the joints in them somewhere I should go take a look.
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 12:39 AM
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Get the J's/Hardrace in the front. Does it cost more? Yes. Does it give you peace of mind? Yes.

N1 Concepts will sell you the S1/S2, which eliminates the RCA plate.
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