Camber adjustment question
This is a rather large pic, but shows the wear. In the pic, you are looking at the bottom side of the left arm.
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These were installed in March 2009 on a car that is trailered to autocross events (about 15-18 per year). It does not get street driven and does not get track driven. Total miles on the car since install are less than 500, but I don't know the exact number.
All these options are confusing. What are the pros/cons of doing this via upper balljoint, lower balljoint, offset bushings, aftermarket control arms, etc?
So it sounds like the SPC and Hardrace/J's option accomplish the same thing: Ability to run more camber.
But it sounds like the hardrace/J's option for the front will be more reliable and not slip as much. Albeit more pricey.
But it sounds like the hardrace/J's option for the front will be more reliable and not slip as much. Albeit more pricey.
I melted the rubber boots off my first set of SPC ball joints so I replaced them after I put the brake dust shields back on to mount the brake vent hoses. I had to press the right front ball joint in and out several times to get the slot angle just right. When I went to torque the big top nut the whole ball joint turned in the upper a-arm hole. All of the in-and-out (
) must have opened up the hole. I put the ball joint back into the right position and spot welded the ball joint to the a-arm. That was about 3 years ago and I haven't had any issues with it. If the upper ball joints need to be replaced I'll just go with new factory upper a-arms and add camber adjusters to the lower a-arm.
Even though I have been running SPC adjustable upper ball joints for 5 years I would have to recommend going with one of the lower a-arm camber adjusters like the Hard Race or J's over the SPC ball joints. Several people have had issues like stripping the big top nut, movement in the slot, and spinning in the mounting hole.
) must have opened up the hole. I put the ball joint back into the right position and spot welded the ball joint to the a-arm. That was about 3 years ago and I haven't had any issues with it. If the upper ball joints need to be replaced I'll just go with new factory upper a-arms and add camber adjusters to the lower a-arm.Even though I have been running SPC adjustable upper ball joints for 5 years I would have to recommend going with one of the lower a-arm camber adjusters like the Hard Race or J's over the SPC ball joints. Several people have had issues like stripping the big top nut, movement in the slot, and spinning in the mounting hole.
Originally Posted by psychoazn' timestamp='1328521195' post='21387248
Get the J's/Hardrace in the front. Does it cost more? Yes. Does it give you peace of mind? Yes.
N1 Concepts will sell you the S1/S2, which eliminates the RCA plate.
N1 Concepts will sell you the S1/S2, which eliminates the RCA plate.
All these options are confusing. What are the pros/cons of doing this via upper balljoint, lower balljoint, offset bushings, aftermarket control arms, etc?
S2 = -3 camber
SPC pulls in the top of the tire
Offset lower ball joints push out the bottom of the tire (wider track width)
I have done it in the past, and often do on my LeMons car since its a PITA to trailer it to the alignment shop every time I fix something, but I let my chassis guy do the S2K since hes a few doors from my office.
It seems like the Hardrace joint is similar to the J's S1. If I need the additional camber of the J's S2, does that mean I have to spend the $$$ on the J's item?
Also, does anyone sell a front RCA plate that uses the stock ball joint? That would make the SPC kit a more attractive option.
Also, does anyone sell a front RCA plate that uses the stock ball joint? That would make the SPC kit a more attractive option.










