I attended the Thunderhill s2000 event back at the end of June, my first track day and am planning on doing it a lot more as it was so much fun. I had R4S pads and Super blue installed on the car (my only modifications). I only did the Thursday session and wore-out the front pads (at least they are squeaking and a visible inspection indicates that there is very little left). I was told that I was very heavy on the breaking that day so it is probably the logical outcome of that.

QUESTIONS:
1) Can the front pads alone be changed (the backs seem fine)?
2) Can someone recommend a good place in the Bay Area (preferably on the penninsula) who will do a good job chaning out the break pads and not charge me a fortune (Anderson Honda charged $200 for just he labor to do the fronts and backs)?
3) How hard is it for me to do change the pads myself without messing things up? I know you guys talk about just changing them at the track - if that is the case, it really cannot take that much time? Can I do it with the emergency jack, socket wrench set and other simple tools, and the technicians manual for the s2000 or is this really a newbie trying to bite off more than he can chew?


BTW, Gilbert, thanks for lap you took me on - it was very helpful.

Thanks,
Elton

 

Hi Elton,
To answer your questions:

1) Yes, you can change just the front pads. There are many variables that affect front/rear pad wear, so keep an eye on both ends as things continue to wear. I'd have an extra set of rears on hand just in case.
2) See #3
3) Thankfully, Honda made it very quick and easy to change brake pads on the S2000. I recommend you change them yourself if you're tracking the car, as it gives you the opportunity to visually inspect each corner of your car. You can keep better tabs on how parts are wearing and spot any irregularities that the grunts at the dealer would probably miss.
After having done it a few times, you can do swap pads at all 4 corners by yourself in 20-30 minutes. I recommend having somebody experienced help you out the first time, especially if you don't feel you're too mechanically inclined.

The process goes something like this:
Jack up corner a bit to lighten load on wheel. Loosen lug nuts. Jack up corner fully. Remove lug nuts and wheel.
For the front:
Use 19mm and 12mm wrenches (turning towards each other in the loosening direction) to loosen the upper caliper bolt. Do the same to the lower bolt, and remove it completely. Pivot caliper up, remove pads. Swap backing plates/apply anti-squal (everyone has their own favorite things to do, I just slap 'em in) and put new pads in. Compress the caliper piston back into the bore - a C clamp, or one of the handy Quik-Grip clamps work well for this. I just push it in with the end of the lug wrench. Pivot caliper back down over new pads, and the rest is the reverse order of removal..
For the rears:
Similar steps, except you'll use 17mm and 12mm wrenches. The rear caliper doesn't pivot easily with all the parking brake junk, so it's easier to remove both caliper bolts and get it out of the way. The rear caliper piston needs to be "screwed" back into its bore. There's lots of ways to do this - I've seen square 3/8"drive ratchet ends work, or seen chisel-type things used. What I do is grab an old pad with a pair of vice grips and use the "ear" of the pad to rotate the piston. Hey, it works!

Somewhere there are published torque specs for the caliper bolts that you might want to adhere to the first few times you do this. Eventually you'll get the "feel" for it and may decide you don't need the torque wrench.

Have fun!

 

Elton,

There are lots of people in the Bay Area who change their brake pads and fluid by themselves. We have tech days from time to time or you can watch people at the track. If you need to change your pads before one of the tech days, just let me know and I can show you how to do it.

 

Jason- thanks for the guided tour on the brake pad change. I'll be trying it myself as well. Can you provided me a similar play by play on changing fluid? --alex

 

Jason, thanks a lot for the detailed guide. Very helpful.

Gilbert, thanks for the offer, I would love to at least watch someone do their pads before trying myself. Let me know the next time you/others are getting together to do it. I won't be making willow springs this Friday though I would loved to have gone. If you are going, have fun.

Elton

 

Fluid change is easiest when you've got a friend and a contrasting fluid; there's ATE Superblue (blue, of course), but everything else is clear/yellowish.

It helps to clear out most of the brake fluid reservoir with a turkey baster or something to get started. Be sure not to spill fluid on anything. It'll mess up your paint, and if it sits on your skin too long, it starts to kinda burn. Ask me how I know...

"The two-man method"
The order I normally hear is LF, RF, RR, LR. Jack up corner, remove wheel. Remove cap over brake bleeder nipple. Put the closed end of a 10mm wrench on the bleeder bolt. Put one end of properly-fitting a clear plastic tube over the bleeder nipple. The other end goes into whatever can/bottle you're using to collect fluid. Have your amigo pump the pedal ~3 times and hold pressure on the brakes. Open the bleeder valve, observe fluid flowing. When it stops, close the valve. Your amigo can then release the brake pedal, and pump and hold the pedal again. Repeat this process until you see pure fresh fluid coming through the tube. Be sure to check the fluid level in the reservoir semi-often so as not to pump air into the system.

When you're done the pedal should be very firm. If there is any sponginess, there's probably air in the lines; even very tiny bubbles can can mushiness. Keep bleeding till they're all gone.

Good luck!

 

Brake bleeding is also in the FAQ:
https://www.s2ki.com/article/articleview/8/1/33/