scareyourpassenger

I am trying to decide how to adjust the balance of the car without dumping lots of money into custom options. I realize I need to get more data to rear figure out the correct path (tire temps, more track/autocross time) but I figured I would post up in case someone has already learned the expensive way

I am currently running the kw v3s

Saner front bar. Only the first two adjustments will work since the kw remote reservoir gets in the way.

Non staggered 255/40/17 dunlop star specs

current alignment is -1.9 camber front with -2.1 rear ( I don't want to run too much camber so I can make these tires last on the street. -.1 degrees toe front and .1 degrees toe rear.

--So far I have tried the front bar full stiff and I am getting inlift with the rear bar connected. (oversteer)

--I tried full soft on the front bar and the rear disconnected and it understeered badly.

So far I am weighing these options to fix the issue:

1.Buying two stiffer spring at 1kg/mm more than the 9kg/mm that come on the v3 and running them in the rear with the rear bar disconnected or in the front with the front bar on the second hole and the rear hooked up.

2.Cheap free mod I am tempted to try but unsure what it will do. Reverse the orientation of the rear endlinks changing the leverage on the rear bar. I haven't seen anyone besides the original poster on this backing up the theory.

3.Finding an extra stock bar and flattening the arms leading to the endlinks to allow more flexibility.

4.Making a custom rear bar using the parts from speedway engineering.

5.Get a custom rear bar bent and made. I still need to determine how much less stiffness I need though.

macr88

What's the car do during steady state cornering? Does it over or understeer.

PedalFaster

Unless you're changing the length of the sway bar lever arm (and it sounds like you're not), this will have no effect except for possibly making your endlinks bind and eventually break.

Why not just take out some rear toe and/or camber?

cuonice

Personally, I would put the stock front sway bar back on. Or, perhaps, a CR front sway.

scareyourpassenger

I already changed the alignment quite a bit and it is clear it needs more that that to fix it.

It seems like changing the endlink position would do something since it is essentially changing the pickup point on the rear arm and moving it more inboard. It bolts to the same place but the force comes from the joint of the endlink not where it bolts up. I could be thinking about this wrong.

scareyourpassenger

I tried the stock bar and it was very loose and oversteered. I could try a cr bar without running the rear bar but running 515lb/in springs makes it a loose handling car which doesn't help allot when autocrossing.

cuonice

Perhaps a CR front bar, slightly more rear toe-in, and if its still too loose you could put a slightly higher spring rate up front? I don't think I would disconnect the rear bar in an autocross setting (unless it was raining... maybe).

scareyourpassenger

It seems like that would create more oversteer than what I have right now. The saner is a pretty beefy bar even when compared to the cr bar.

I love how much rear traction is available without the rear bar as I can put power down earlier.

scareyourpassenger

Thanks for the feedback so far everyone

SC_Highlander

I have a very similar situation with my car. I'm running 950lb springs all around, saner on medium, no rear bar, 255x4 R888's, and Koni DA yellows. I am making the following changes: increasing the front springs to 1200lb, swapping the saner for a CR front bar, and I've ordered parts to build a 5/8ths solid rear bar. Hopefully I get that done before our next event on 10/18.