Comptech Bar Arrives...
#1
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Well, the bar has arrived... looks good, other than the lack of paint! I'll try to get some flexible spraypaint to cover it tonight. I won't install it until this weekend, as I want to do the shocks at the same time. I'll measure the difference in arm lengths vs. the stock bar when I get the install going.
Initial impressions: This is a big bar... it looks like the front swaybar from my F-150 tow vehicle! If this doesn't tame the tail, nothing will! I am beginning to get scared it will make the car push like a pig, but we'll have to see. I think we can still make the car neutral, especially in transitions. Let's also hope this bar lets us put the power down!
Full report to come! Only 2 weeks until we are in Florida testing, and I'll give a day by day report as to our progress. Plenty of pics this weekend of the suspension install as well.
Let's get this season started!
Initial impressions: This is a big bar... it looks like the front swaybar from my F-150 tow vehicle! If this doesn't tame the tail, nothing will! I am beginning to get scared it will make the car push like a pig, but we'll have to see. I think we can still make the car neutral, especially in transitions. Let's also hope this bar lets us put the power down!
Full report to come! Only 2 weeks until we are in Florida testing, and I'll give a day by day report as to our progress. Plenty of pics this weekend of the suspension install as well.
Let's get this season started!
#3
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This may not fit your schedule, but it would be interesting and useful to mount the bar and test first, then mount the shocks, so you can separate the effects.
I can't think of anything common to the two jobs except jacking the front of the car and removing the wheels, so not a lot of wasted effort doing two steps.
Be sure to be prepared to separate the ball joint on the front suspension to get the shock out.
Gregg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jason Saini
[B]
... as I want to do the shocks at the same time.
I can't think of anything common to the two jobs except jacking the front of the car and removing the wheels, so not a lot of wasted effort doing two steps.
Be sure to be prepared to separate the ball joint on the front suspension to get the shock out.
Gregg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jason Saini
[B]
... as I want to do the shocks at the same time.
#4
Originally posted by Gregg Lee
I can't think of anything common to the two jobs except jacking the front of the car and removing the wheels, so not a lot of wasted effort doing two steps.
Be sure to be prepared to separate the ball joint on the front suspension to get the shock out.
Gregg
I can't think of anything common to the two jobs except jacking the front of the car and removing the wheels, so not a lot of wasted effort doing two steps.
Be sure to be prepared to separate the ball joint on the front suspension to get the shock out.
Gregg
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Clever. I hadn't noticed the bolts since the heads are facing down. Odd that the Honda procedure calls for separating the ball joint, which sounds like a lot more trouble.
Any particular problem with reassembly?
Any particular problem with reassembly?
Originally posted by RandyP
When I took the front shock out, I took out the two bolts that connect the ball joint to the knuckle rather than separate the ball joint[/B]
When I took the front shock out, I took out the two bolts that connect the ball joint to the knuckle rather than separate the ball joint[/B]
#6
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Well, painted the bar last night... and got the stock bar off the car to compare. It does seem like the arms are slightly shorter, about 1/2" shorter than stock. I can see how installation becomes a challenge. It might help to loosen the lower control arm mount to get more play in the link to get it started in the new bar... I'll get some pictures tonight and post them.
I found some flex-primer at Home Depot under the brand name "Bond-Aid" which was marketed for rubber bumpers. It should add enough flex to keep the paint from cracking. Then I just put some Latex spray paint over that, and the bar looks great.
Bar is noticeably heavier than stock, but I have no scale... did anyone else weigh theirs?
I found some flex-primer at Home Depot under the brand name "Bond-Aid" which was marketed for rubber bumpers. It should add enough flex to keep the paint from cracking. Then I just put some Latex spray paint over that, and the bar looks great.
Bar is noticeably heavier than stock, but I have no scale... did anyone else weigh theirs?
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BTW thanks to Greg Stevens, Meat and soloiiracer for helping me get the shocks off and the stock swaybar off... And all it took was one case of Corona and 1/2 a lime!
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#8
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I missed free beer???? Yikes- I would have driven down from Minneapolis for that! Well maybe not for Corona...
Thx Greg & Meat for helping to strip the Mistress of her shocks
I can't wait to test all the new bits out in Florida- 14 days and counting... We will have lotsa pix & info for you all. I'll get that bar weighed this weekend when I'm back in Chi-town (if someone doesn't beat me to it).
Thx Greg & Meat for helping to strip the Mistress of her shocks
I can't wait to test all the new bits out in Florida- 14 days and counting... We will have lotsa pix & info for you all. I'll get that bar weighed this weekend when I'm back in Chi-town (if someone doesn't beat me to it).
#9
No problem with the help guys (and Juliann).
For those replacing the shocks, the driver-side rear looks like a beyatch to get to the bolts on top, but it's not too bad once you get the right tools for the job.
Also, when removing the front shocks/springs pull them towards the rear of the car when lowering them out - much easier.
Another thing - do not let greg loose under the car with a screwdriver - all sorts of fasteners will be removed for no reason.
Finally, when working in an unheated garage during January in Chicago, make sure you buy a space heater that actually works!
For those replacing the shocks, the driver-side rear looks like a beyatch to get to the bolts on top, but it's not too bad once you get the right tools for the job.
Also, when removing the front shocks/springs pull them towards the rear of the car when lowering them out - much easier.
Another thing - do not let greg loose under the car with a screwdriver - all sorts of fasteners will be removed for no reason.
Finally, when working in an unheated garage during January in Chicago, make sure you buy a space heater that actually works!
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