I wanted to pass along some info on brake cooling that I acquired at my most recent track day on may 16,2003. I am running the stock brakes with Earls SS lines ,Porterfield R4 pads ,and ATE fluid with 3" brake ducting routed from the fake grills in the front bumper. I ran five hard sessions during the day and experienced no fade at all. I also applied some temp paint to the edges of all of my rotors to checks the temps. The front rotors never went over 630 degrees. The rear rotors have no cooling and they did go over 630 degrees. I don't know how hot the rears got but I will add cooling to them before my next track day. I applaud your efforts but wanted to point out that the best brakes in the world will still need some sort of cooling. I would also like to thank everyone on the board for posting the info needed to install the brake ducting. It has helped overcome the only real weakness this car has for the track.

 

I agree with Hotrod and despite the Wilwood setup fade on the track is as inevitable as race-pad squeal on the street. Perhaps fade is a little delayed vs. stock, but nonetheless it convinced me that all aftermarket kits will fade no matter what--that is, unless enough air is being properly routed to the rotors. (The 30lb weight loss from the front end is welcome, though!)

With that said, Dave is running ducts and though I haven't seen him on the track in person, his lap times are ungodly fast....for us average mortals ducting may solve fade issues, but a look at his lap times will explain why he's got to go one step further.

 

thats not true. IMO A properly designed system shouldn't fade, especially in a 30 minute session.

There's lots to be considered when designing a kit. For example dave and I running 245 slicks on the front are going to require a lot more force to stop than a 205 street tire.

It's the tires that stop the car.

 

Well about two years ago, UL ran some tests on my car with temp paint and we were able to get the rotors up past 1000F (stock pads, rotors, fluid with brake ducting on the front). Maybe you weren't driving hard enough.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by pll
[B]

Well about two years ago, UL ran some tests on my car with temp paint and we were able to get the rotors up past 1000F (stock pads, rotors, fluid with brake ducting on the front).

 

Oops! I left out the fact that I am using stock wheels & S02's for rubber. With the setup described above my limiting factor is now the tires. I understand that this thread is directed at a much higher level of performance than what I am after. Just wanted to share some info and success I had achieved based on the great info from this board. Thanks again.

 

hehe. Well, for the record, UL caused the rotors to break the 1000F mark.

 

Yeah, when pll drove, he only hit 650F. :-)

Dave, Bravo on the effort and sharing your findings. If you ever decide to pursue water misting, I have a water injection system I'm taking off my CRX (selling the car). It'll push 200 psi through a very small nozzle for fine atomization. I also have several nozzles capable of delivering anywhere from 150-300 cc/min of flow. You're welcome to experiment with it.

UL

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
[B]thats not true.