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Yeah, he called yesterday. He's working on something with a Mocal pump (self priming, pump cooling fan, 300 deg capacity) and a Setrab cooler. Those are the same pieces that I was looking into so I think that's a good place to start. I'm sure the pump is made by someone else as everyone seems to have the same specs but with their label on it. The question is what size cooler is needed and will we need a fan on it since it's under the car. The good thing is Setrab has prepackaged fanpacks already so it's just a matter of testing at this point. http://www.setrabusa.com/Fanpacks.html
Also they are in Ohio so that might help if we need to run over there.
I don't know if some type of thermostat can be worked into the system or not.
I'm going with Goodridge lines & fittings just because we have a long working relationship with them and they have top quality stuff.
There should be enough room in the lines to throw a Goodridge Stabuli (or JiffyTite if it needs to be larger than the range Stabuli is available in) self sealing quick disconnect in there to make swapping out coolers (for testing and later in case they get damaged).
The main question point for me now is can/should we use the drain & fill plugs for this system or are we going to need to weld bungs to the casing. Remember the bottom of the diff is the main rear jack point so if there is a line running out of it... you'll be SOL for a rear jack point.
Also since it's for a SCCA package we need to test it and make sure it gives us the proper amount of cooling.
Does anybody have pictures of a diff cooler setup in a S2000?
What temperatures do you get with a clutch type LSD in the stock differential cover?
Will a high capacity cover e.g. like a "EVS Tuning High Capacity Differential Cover" really bring down the temperature or will it only delay the process?
I used a marine self prime fuel pump with a 19 row cooler along with a 2.5 qt capacity sump I fabricated myself. I can make most anything if I have time and resources... car has novi1200 with a vmount setup and a 30 row oil cooler for the engine all oils only get 210-220f. I've not done anything to the trans. My flatbottom starts at the transmission it feeds into a diffuser. Before I built the sump cooler setup I was seeing Temps go into the 250+f range to the point you have to stop driving it hard. I have a Tomei lsd with apr bolts on the caps and a js racing pinion collar. I have a puddymod stage4 but it's back for a checkup so this is the spare. I'll be making another sump with a broken diff I have. Well I'll be using the aluminum back as I pushed the threads out of the driver side main cap . If anyone wants a sump I can do it will need the type of exhaust with pics using a machine ruler for exact clearance.mine is close.the sump can be made smaller as well. I will say having a sump is the best way to run a cooler as it let's you get a good prime on the oil pickup. Stock capsity is on the small size. I run the cooler with the lines up so it always has a prime on the system. I use a mocal temp sensor/trigger to run the pump when it sees 190f and Jiffy-tite Series Quick-Connect fittings to add my oil and with the cooler full the whole system is about 3.5 qts . Had a buddy over the other day when I was Changing my oil jet bolts and he said I'm driving an imsa endurance racecar on the street.. By they where all bad/ spring failures and on an f22c with the 4 hole units had low idle pressure 15 psi now I have 35psi and 100psi above 3k rpm. Anyway if you have any questions let me know.
Last edited by s2k manic; Oct 6, 2021 at 07:46 PM.
