Driving method on HPDE event
hmm thanks guys appreciate the feedback.
well since i'm so near to track day... will the stock pads sold in autozone work or should i be better off goin to the dealership for a set of pads?
fresh brake fluids eh , mine is quite clear though ..... should i follow the rule of thumb to bleed the brakes from the one furthest from the MC and all the way to the front? i dont have a fsm
well since i'm so near to track day... will the stock pads sold in autozone work or should i be better off goin to the dealership for a set of pads?
fresh brake fluids eh , mine is quite clear though ..... should i follow the rule of thumb to bleed the brakes from the one furthest from the MC and all the way to the front? i dont have a fsm
Check your oil level, especially if your car is an oil burner. Bring an extra bottle with you.
If you want to get to get a backup set of pads, get OEM pads. OEM's are pretty good at will not go greasy when they overheat, they just wear faster. Cheap aftermarket pads and street/track pads might give you a scare when they get "track hot". Found that out from personal experience. Later on consider getting real race pads for track days.
Most well run HPDE's I've gone to require the brake fluid be less than 1 year old. If you're going to bleed you might as well get some good high temp fluid. Bleed LF, RF, RR and lastly LR.
Don't have to worry about engine overheating. Never seen anything over 3 bars during 1/2 hour sessions of hot laps. If you're on street tires, they'll overheat first.
If you want to get to get a backup set of pads, get OEM pads. OEM's are pretty good at will not go greasy when they overheat, they just wear faster. Cheap aftermarket pads and street/track pads might give you a scare when they get "track hot". Found that out from personal experience. Later on consider getting real race pads for track days.
Most well run HPDE's I've gone to require the brake fluid be less than 1 year old. If you're going to bleed you might as well get some good high temp fluid. Bleed LF, RF, RR and lastly LR.
Don't have to worry about engine overheating. Never seen anything over 3 bars during 1/2 hour sessions of hot laps. If you're on street tires, they'll overheat first.
shoot , where can i buy OEM pads? from honda only?
how do they chek the fluid is less than 1 year old?
and other than not pushing the limit there is no way to prevent the street tires from overheating right? ( can i use waterspray to cool it down?)
sorry for so many newbie question cause i just want dont want to get any surprises as this is my pride and joy =)
btw i have the dreaded decel clutch buzz , but how do i distinguish if it is my differential sounding bad instead?
thanks a lot guys...
how do they chek the fluid is less than 1 year old?
and other than not pushing the limit there is no way to prevent the street tires from overheating right? ( can i use waterspray to cool it down?)
sorry for so many newbie question cause i just want dont want to get any surprises as this is my pride and joy =)
btw i have the dreaded decel clutch buzz , but how do i distinguish if it is my differential sounding bad instead?
thanks a lot guys...
Originally Posted by J's_Racer,May 22 2007, 10:08 PM
shoot , where can i buy OEM pads? from honda only?
how do they chek the fluid is less than 1 year old?
and other than not pushing the limit there is no way to prevent the street tires from overheating right? ( can i use waterspray to cool it down?)
sorry for so many newbie question cause i just want dont want to get any surprises as this is my pride and joy =)
btw i have the dreaded decel clutch buzz , but how do i distinguish if it is my differential sounding bad instead?
thanks a lot guys...
how do they chek the fluid is less than 1 year old?
and other than not pushing the limit there is no way to prevent the street tires from overheating right? ( can i use waterspray to cool it down?)
sorry for so many newbie question cause i just want dont want to get any surprises as this is my pride and joy =)
btw i have the dreaded decel clutch buzz , but how do i distinguish if it is my differential sounding bad instead?
thanks a lot guys...
same for engine oil... if its been over 3000 miles, go to the track on a fresh oil change... make sure you have no coolant leaks and your coolant is topped up...
you have to isolate the clutch buzz... clutch buzz is only when you let off the gas... wheras usually, diff problems are heard under power (when your on the gas)... or you'll feel vibrations from the rear... or when you push in the clutch and coast to a slow roll... once in a while, turn off the radio/AC/etc and just listen to the rear while your driving normally... if your even vaguley mechanically inclined, youll catch a sound that shouldnt be there... if not, have someone else drive it occasionally...
OEM pads is not the only option, but it is a safe option for a newbie. I personally don't have any experience with any other non-race pads that would be good for the track. If you are looking online there are a bunch of places that sell discount OEM Honda parts. The first one is hardtopguy, which also has ATE brake fluid.
http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/home.php?cat=100
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...ry5=FRONT+BRAKE
http://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000-03.html
Don't bother with the water spray. If you know enough to stop to spray the water in the first place, you can just wait around and let the tires cool down by themselves. If you are running street tires, the general rule of thumb is to increase the air pressure a few lbs to prevent the sidewalls from folding over. After your first session check to see that your not scraping the sidewalls (it probably won't be a problem first time out). Take a little time to check the wear, if there are chunks coming off the tires your running them too hard. If you are chunking the tires you should be able to feel the tires loose traction while you're lapping (again unless you're really aggressive, probably won't be a problem).
Also, when you do stop after a session, do not engage the parking brake. Clamping hot pads on hot rotors is not good.
http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/home.php?cat=100
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...ry5=FRONT+BRAKE
http://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000-03.html
Don't bother with the water spray. If you know enough to stop to spray the water in the first place, you can just wait around and let the tires cool down by themselves. If you are running street tires, the general rule of thumb is to increase the air pressure a few lbs to prevent the sidewalls from folding over. After your first session check to see that your not scraping the sidewalls (it probably won't be a problem first time out). Take a little time to check the wear, if there are chunks coming off the tires your running them too hard. If you are chunking the tires you should be able to feel the tires loose traction while you're lapping (again unless you're really aggressive, probably won't be a problem).
Also, when you do stop after a session, do not engage the parking brake. Clamping hot pads on hot rotors is not good.




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