F24 stroker kit for race use
Originally Posted by DavidNJ' timestamp='1437611612' post='23689686
[quote name='wadzii' timestamp='1437606020' post='23689605']
With bigger cams vtc doesn't make that much difference
With bigger cams vtc doesn't make that much difference
Are your experiences different?
[/quote]
How big did you go? In another post you mention Drag Cartel 003s where they list as Intake: 13.8 mm Lift / 254 Duration @ .050 Exhaust :13.2 mm Lift/ 250 Duration @ .050. The Honda has a stiffer valvetrain than a pushrod V8 which I'm more familiar with, but oval track asphalt short track engines are typically in the 250°-260° range which is very similar (typically lobes are offered in 3° or 4° increments). LSAs are typically in the 104°-108° range but that can be dynamically adjusted in the K24.
Did these work well with 25° of adjustment or did the 35° help?
Originally Posted by Mrsideways' timestamp='1437674086' post='23690525
[quote name='DavidNJ' timestamp='1437611612' post='23689686']
[quote name='wadzii' timestamp='1437606020' post='23689605']
With bigger cams vtc doesn't make that much difference
[quote name='wadzii' timestamp='1437606020' post='23689605']
With bigger cams vtc doesn't make that much difference
Are your experiences different?
[/quote]
How big did you go? In another post you mention Drag Cartel 003s where they list as Intake: 13.8 mm Lift / 254 Duration @ .050 Exhaust :13.2 mm Lift/ 250 Duration @ .050. The Honda has a stiffer valvetrain than a pushrod V8 which I'm more familiar with, but oval track asphalt short track engines are typically in the 250°-260° range which is very similar (typically lobes are offered in 3° or 4° increments). LSAs are typically in the 104°-108° range but that can be dynamically adjusted in the K24.
Did these work well with 25° of adjustment or did the 35° help?
[/quote]
If I wrote 3's it was a mistake. They are Drag Cartel 4's.
Holy hell. So let's recap:
There is one confirmed case of an F24 being reliable with regular track usage. (F20kills)
Tom Tang used an F24, had problems, and has since built another one.
Literally everything else in this topic is either bullshit, or valuable information that does not directly answer OP's question but could be redirected in another thread.
Did I miss anything?
Edit: Make no mistake, I only post because I am considering making a similar jump, I live in the same general area as the OP, and run the same tracks, and have the same eventual goals as OP.
There is one confirmed case of an F24 being reliable with regular track usage. (F20kills)
Tom Tang used an F24, had problems, and has since built another one.
Literally everything else in this topic is either bullshit, or valuable information that does not directly answer OP's question but could be redirected in another thread.
Did I miss anything?
Edit: Make no mistake, I only post because I am considering making a similar jump, I live in the same general area as the OP, and run the same tracks, and have the same eventual goals as OP.
I don't care. I don't. I don't want to know about K24s in Lotus Exiges. I don't want to know about a K-series motor in an S2000. I opened this topic hoping to find someone (anyone) who used an F24 stroker kit in a track or race car, and what their experiences were. Instead, you have tried your absolute best to take this thread and derail it into oblivion. Seriously.
If I wanted to know anything about putting a K24 in an S2000 (I really don't, at the moment), I'll ask Mrsideways, who's built, broke, built, broke, and built again his K24-powered car enough times to honestly make him more of a subject matter expert on the topic than you'll probably ever be.
Again, does anyone besides those aforementioned owners and drivers have any track or race experience with an F24 stroker kit, whether from inlinepro, wadzii?
If I wanted to know anything about putting a K24 in an S2000 (I really don't, at the moment), I'll ask Mrsideways, who's built, broke, built, broke, and built again his K24-powered car enough times to honestly make him more of a subject matter expert on the topic than you'll probably ever be.
Again, does anyone besides those aforementioned owners and drivers have any track or race experience with an F24 stroker kit, whether from inlinepro, wadzii?
Whats funny is hes either retired, or super young kid going off what he reads on the internet lol....I really dont think he reads everyones posts 100%. He goes off WaaAAAaayy out in left field in all his threads.
My 2.4 is still running fine. New dyno tune 8/4 at Evasive to get some better numbers with my 3.5" intake. Keeping the rev limit to 7800 RPM and shift about 7500 a lot at track. I want this motor to last so well see. Eats ZERO oil so far and have been driving it on the street a lot this summer...which I never do lol
My 2.4 is still running fine. New dyno tune 8/4 at Evasive to get some better numbers with my 3.5" intake. Keeping the rev limit to 7800 RPM and shift about 7500 a lot at track. I want this motor to last so well see. Eats ZERO oil so far and have been driving it on the street a lot this summer...which I never do lol
Okay, I read through this thread and it's really not so bad. It seems like David had valid questions and concerns regarding the K series. Please refrain from name calling and personal attacks. That is worse than going OT. More power is expensive and not so reliable. There's no easy / cheap / super durable solution.
Agree that a J-swap would be sweet.
Agree that a J-swap would be sweet.
Whats funny is hes either retired, or super young kid going off what he reads on the internet lol....I really dont think he reads everyones posts 100%. He goes off WaaAAAaayy out in left field in all his threads.
My 2.4 is still running fine. New dyno tune 8/4 at Evasive to get some better numbers with my 3.5" intake. Keeping the rev limit to 7800 RPM and shift about 7500 a lot at track. I want this motor to last so well see. Eats ZERO oil so far and have been driving it on the street a lot this summer...which I never do lol
My 2.4 is still running fine. New dyno tune 8/4 at Evasive to get some better numbers with my 3.5" intake. Keeping the rev limit to 7800 RPM and shift about 7500 a lot at track. I want this motor to last so well see. Eats ZERO oil so far and have been driving it on the street a lot this summer...which I never do lol
What tranny do you have in the car? AP1 or AP2. would the gearing be too short with an AP2 at 7500?
Coming from being a guy who's put a K in an S2000. There's lots of Hype on the internet on these motors making BIG power numbers. Andy Holis spent $$$$$ on his K24 CRX. He blew up a lot of motors and was on at least engine 3 or 4 before he broke the 300whp mark reliably. Sure you can build one to go make a drag strip pass at 10,000 rpm and make 350-400whp. But to make one that will last it's a lot of trial and error. Even the companies pointed out on here that sell these short blocks and long block K24's. If you go to their build thread on K20a.org you'll see that their first build with all the "right" parts yielded 250whp and a high 13 drag pass. Look at the money and time I've spent on mine and it's still not where it "CAN" be.
Fact, the F series head flows more air
Fact, the K24 Block is taller giving you a better rod ratio
Fact, you have a higher percentage of HP loss from FWD to RWD so the K motors making big numbers in FWD's will look more like S2000 numbers in an S2000
Fact, iVtec gives you more control over cam timing to gain more mid-range torque, but you have to size your cams and your valve pockets in the pistons correctly to take advantage of it.
Everything else in this thread is speculation. If I could have talked the SCCA into allowing the K24 crank in the F22 block that's what I would have done. But I would have limited it 7500 rpm or so to keep the piston speed similar to the F22 piston speed.
Fact, the F series head flows more air
Fact, the K24 Block is taller giving you a better rod ratio
Fact, you have a higher percentage of HP loss from FWD to RWD so the K motors making big numbers in FWD's will look more like S2000 numbers in an S2000
Fact, iVtec gives you more control over cam timing to gain more mid-range torque, but you have to size your cams and your valve pockets in the pistons correctly to take advantage of it.
Everything else in this thread is speculation. If I could have talked the SCCA into allowing the K24 crank in the F22 block that's what I would have done. But I would have limited it 7500 rpm or so to keep the piston speed similar to the F22 piston speed.
Okay, I read through this thread and it's really not so bad. It seems like David had valid questions and concerns regarding the K series. Please refrain from name calling and personal attacks. That is worse than going OT. More power is expensive and not so reliable. There's no easy / cheap / super durable solution.
Agree that a J-swap would be sweet.
Agree that a J-swap would be sweet.

Originally Posted by f20kills' timestamp='1437750311' post='23691498
Whats funny is hes either retired, or super young kid going off what he reads on the internet lol....I really dont think he reads everyones posts 100%. He goes off WaaAAAaayy out in left field in all his threads.
My 2.4 is still running fine. New dyno tune 8/4 at Evasive to get some better numbers with my 3.5" intake. Keeping the rev limit to 7800 RPM and shift about 7500 a lot at track. I want this motor to last so well see. Eats ZERO oil so far and have been driving it on the street a lot this summer...which I never do lol
My 2.4 is still running fine. New dyno tune 8/4 at Evasive to get some better numbers with my 3.5" intake. Keeping the rev limit to 7800 RPM and shift about 7500 a lot at track. I want this motor to last so well see. Eats ZERO oil so far and have been driving it on the street a lot this summer...which I never do lol
What tranny do you have in the car? AP1 or AP2. would the gearing be too short with an AP2 at 7500?
I have the AP1. My gearing @7500-7800 revlimit is similar to AP2 2.2 gearing....so I dont lose any top speed in each gear at that rev limit.








