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Took my '06 out to Sebring this weekend, first time I've ever had her out (though I've done several other events in other cars). Bone stock execept for some Hawk HP Plus pads on all 4 wheels.
........
2 days, ~4 tanks of gas, 2-4 rotors (depending on what the rears really end up looking like), a full set of front brake pads, half a set of rear brake pads, a set of front tires, some boiled brake fluid (yes the high temp variety - TYP 200), and two front calipers that probably need to be rebuilt (need to talk to Honda about that one...) later...
I might have been a little rought on her but totally worth it to make the 911s and Caymans really have to work it to stay in front of me - and to leave those that didn't well behind me.
She will now sit in the garage and wait for me to have the time and cash to replace what needs replacing.
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As an aside, if you have any experiance on the track, don't use Hawk HP Plus pads, spend the extra 50 bucks and get some carbotechs or something.
The rotors are definately shot and when I took the calipers off the O-ring surrounding the piston on both the fronts looks cooked.... The whole caliper is actually a different color that it was when I started from the heat.
Wow that surprises me. HP plus isnt the best choice up front, I run the HT10 on the front which has worked great for me, and my $35 rotors have lasted 3 events as well. I use ATE superblue as I did in my last car and I have never had a brake caliper issue in my 8 year old S2000 on track. I wonder what the culprit was with your car? I wouldnt want to start in on your driving since I wasnt there nor do I know you, but is it possible you were dragging the brakes? I'm sorry this had to happen to you your first time out in the S2000. Did you use new rotors?
Use ATE at least next time. What makes you think the rotors are bad (post pics)? What you see petrified on the caliper is the dust boot, the more important o-ring underneath is most likely just fine. A rebuild is a waste of time and money IMO if you plan on tracking again.
Originally Posted by tinkfist,Jul 28 2008, 04:40 PM
What you see petrified on the caliper is the dust boot, the more important o-ring underneath is most likely just fine. A rebuild is a waste of time and money IMO if you plan on tracking again.
Yup. I have not had the dust boots on my calipers for years.
Well, I just got a call back from Honda - took it in to get it looked over. They said the rotors, pads, and CALIPERS are totally shot and all needs to be replaced, front and rear. They are quoting me around $1800 plus tax. They say none of it is covered under warranty - which I expected for the pads and rotors - but the calipers?? (If it is just the dust boots then the caliper itself shouldn't need replacing)
I plan on getting it back from them, buying the parts and doing it myself. (alternatively maybe I'll just upgrade the brakes entirely - almost the same **ing price) Needless to say I'm pissed.
* as for brake fluid TYP 200 is ATE, basically the same as super blue but a different color.
* No I wasn't dragging my brakes, I was using them a lot but I've been on the track several times and know how to brake (no offense taken, I thought about the same thing).
* The rotors were not new but were minimally worn when I started the event.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Input? Pat on the back? All appreciated, thanks much.
Rule number 1: dealers know nothing about track cars.
Rotors cost under $100 each (and can be available for much less than that). Stock pads are pretty cheap, but should not be used at the track. Replacing the rotors and pads is one of the most simple DIY jobs possible. I go through 2+ sets of front rotors every year. (Had a rotor crack on Saturday, in fact, and was back on the track in about an hour.) I have had the same set of rear rotors on my car for at least four years now.
I recommend using a pressure bleeder (eg. Motive Products) to flush the fluid.
And I'm not buying the idea that you, somehow, have managed to destroy your calipers in a single track day when none of us ever have. It is impossible to see the o-ring unless you pop the piston out. And so what if the caliper changed color? Big deal. Mine did that years ago, and still work fine.
Your dealer is (apparently correctly) seeing you as a potential line item in his annual profit margin.