Sorry, I was not as clear as I should have been. This jack goes under the side jack points behind the front wheels and the side jack points in front of the rear wheels. It will raise the car high enough using either side point to get both wheels on one side off the ground.

 

I have that Harbor Freight 1.5 ton jack from the link and it is toast after ~2.5 years of use. Granted I was putting the car on stands at least a couple times a month to swap between track and street brakes in addition to regular maintenance, modifications, suspension adjustments, etc.

Most of the time, I would jack a whole side of the car up from the front side jack point behind the front wheel. Since the pivot points the jack is working with, the two wheels on the opposite side, are not the same distance to the jack, the jack pad does not move up in the same vertical plane. That stresses the hinges on the jack and the metal support bars that keep it all moving in the same vertical plane. Now if I raise the jack all the way with nothing on it and stand on the base of the jack to keep it from moving, I can move the jack pad quite easily ~4" to either side.

I've picked up the 2.5 Ton alu HF jack since then and it is much heavier and sturdier, but now my 2x6s are no longer high enough to reach the front center jack point. I need to raise the front about 3" with the bigger jack to access that front center point.

 

I have the long low-profile HR aluminum jack and it will reach both center points at stock height without rubbing. When lowered, I need to jack one side at a time to add 2x6s under all the wheels, then I can get the center points and get the car up.

I've also done the lazy way and just lifted one side at a time high enough to put stands on the frame rails of that side. It does mark up the rails, though. And I don't like putting that much stress on the jack or the frame to lift it so high from the front-side point.

 

Here is what I use. I also have a 2009 ZR1 that is almost impossible to get up in the air, but these work very well

http://www.raceramps.com/

 

I have the Omega 29203 floor jack. It does reach the front and rear central jacking points without boards.

Be warned! This is a big heavy jack. It is 42 inches long. The handle is 52 inches long. The jack weighs 121 lbs.

I starts off very low at 2.5 inches.

I bought the jack because I did not want the hassle of the boards.

Just roll it out of the garage. Slide it under the car and jack from the center point. Done. No hassle.

It also works well with my Track Miata, which is lower still.

 

I have been using the Harbor Freight 1.5 Ton Compact Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with Rapid Pump. I have used them for years. I last paid $59.99 on sale. One failed (would not lift) a couple years ago, but for the price, if it lasts 5+ years, its worth it.

 

I use the same. Had lifting issues after 3 years but all it needed was fresh fluid and a bleed. $3 and 5 minutes and it was working like new again.

Mike

 

+1 for Pittsburg Automotive Low Profile Floor Jack off the HF website. I am actually editing a "How to Properly Lift a Honda S2000 with a Floor Jack" video. Keep an eye out.

 

That's the jack I want to have in my garage someday. Right now I have 2 HF that do the job, so I can't justify purchasing a 3rd jack. One is the 1.5 ton aluminum that lifts up to about 17" and the other is a heavy one to remain in the garage only. Both are low but not low enough to reach the mid-front jacking point. I use the 2x4s for that.

 

Thanks for the feedback and info. I'll be cutting me some 2x6's I guess....,