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Front Sway Bar

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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 04:40 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by CobraTi,Dec 10 2007, 03:58 PM
+1 on the Gendron bar. Not totally needed for on the street, but it has made a huge difference in how the car handles. Some people may not like it, but with how I have the bar set up, on my street tires, the car is very neutral in cornering, maybe even a hint of understeer (I dont normally vtec going around corners on the street, but I'm sure anyone could easily step the back end out if they really wanted). On stickier tires, that understeer more or less vanishes.

If you're not looking to track or autocross the car though, its a pretty big investment and I think the Cusco would be better. Never heard any complaints about it and thats what I would have bought if I didnt find the deal on the Gendron a few months ago.
agreed! It sounds like you want to do auto-x. If this is just casual like once or twice a year save the money and get the cuscos. If you want to get serious don't hesitate to get the Gendron. EXPECIALLY if you want to reduce the staggered to 225-245 or less. I was amazed at the difference just running these on street Like CobraTi said I experience mild understeer to neutral steer on the street with less stagger and neutral to slgith oversteer with less stagger on the track. Yes it is very pricey for one bar and its heavy but the handling difference is huge. The best I have seen the difference is in high speed sweepers, the confidence it instills alone is worth it. Before it would feel like the back end was always willing to rotate. plants and goes now, lift to rotate!
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 07:05 AM
  #12  
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I'm very happy with the Whiteline non adj front bar and 205/225 RE-01R setup on an AP1. Have quite an aggressive alignment for a street/autocross car though. -1.75F, -2.25R with 0 toe in the front and quite a bit of rear toe in.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 07:11 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 8kGoodENuff,Dec 10 2007, 08:01 PM
This is for Auto-X mainly.
I have the Saner bar with the custom 4th hole and am running a 245 Hoosier A6's on my AP1 and I get rear wheel lift exiting some of the tight turns. I was getting this rear wheel lift when I had 225 A6's up front for an Evo school, and this is on ashphalt with Koni OTS.

I've heard from another local guy with the Gendron bar set to full stiff and stock shocks running 245/275 V710's on an AP2 was still getting some rear wheel lift coming out of tight corners on the same surface.

A big factor of having a stiff front bar is to keep the car more flat to the road so the rear wheel does not lift as much cause once it is up in the air, the rear diff even with the LSD will act as an open diff.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 08:46 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by SumAznGuy,Dec 11 2007, 11:11 AM
I have the Saner bar with the custom 4th hole and am running a 245 Hoosier A6's on my AP1 and I get rear wheel lift exiting some of the tight turns. I was getting this rear wheel lift when I had 225 A6's up front for an Evo school, and this is on ashphalt with Koni OTS.

I've heard from another local guy with the Gendron bar set to full stiff and stock shocks running 245/275 V710's on an AP2 was still getting some rear wheel lift coming out of tight corners on the same surface.

A big factor of having a stiff front bar is to keep the car more flat to the road so the rear wheel does not lift as much cause once it is up in the air, the rear diff even with the LSD will act as an open diff.
well put my main debate now ifs wether to do 225-245s of 245s all around. An experience either way?
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:16 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by SumAznGuy,Dec 11 2007, 12:11 PM
I have the Saner bar with the custom 4th hole and am running a 245 Hoosier A6's on my AP1 and I get rear wheel lift exiting some of the tight turns. I was getting this rear wheel lift when I had 225 A6's up front for an Evo school, and this is on ashphalt with Koni OTS.

I've heard from another local guy with the Gendron bar set to full stiff and stock shocks running 245/275 V710's on an AP2 was still getting some rear wheel lift coming out of tight corners on the same surface.

A big factor of having a stiff front bar is to keep the car more flat to the road so the rear wheel does not lift as much cause once it is up in the air, the rear diff even with the LSD will act as an open diff.
I read that the Saner bars have a tendency to snap under load.

I think I'm settling for the Cusco Unit. Cheap and seems to get the job done.

Andre
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:36 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by dnace,Dec 11 2007, 01:46 PM
well put my main debate now ifs wether to do 225-245s of 245s all around. An experience either way?
I'm going with a 225/255 setup.

Andre
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 8kGoodENuff,Dec 11 2007, 10:16 AM
I read that the Saner bars have a tendency to snap under load.

I think I'm settling for the Cusco Unit. Cheap and seems to get the job done.

Andre
I never read that but then again I did not do that much research on them.
The Saner bar is a solid bar, so I am not sure where they would snap other then at the ends.
I know the early Comptech bars had issues with breaking though.

Since you are only running street tires the Cusco bar will be fine, but the minute you jump up to R-comps the Cusco bar is not enough.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 03:02 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by dnace,Dec 11 2007, 12:46 PM
well put my main debate now ifs wether to do 225-245s of 245s all around. An experience either way?
Last summer I ran a Pro Solo with a borrowed set of Hoosier 245s all around. I have the Comptech bar on full stiff and OEM shocks with 60k miles on them. Alignment was -1.6 deg. camber front, -2.1 deg. rear, 1/4" total toe-in on the rear. I found the car to be very easy to control although I had been expecting significant oversteer. Since the stagger of most 225/245 setups is only .5", it's not a huge deal to use 245 all the way around, especially since the effective contact patch on the front is apt to be a bit smaller anyways, due to the smaller wheel sucking in the sidewalls...

I'll be using 245s this year for sure.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 04:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jguerdat,Dec 12 2007, 07:02 AM
Last summer I ran a Pro Solo with a borrowed set of Hoosier 245s all around. I have the Comptech bar on full stiff and OEM shocks with 60k miles on them. Alignment was -1.6 deg. camber front, -2.1 deg. rear, 1/4" total toe-in on the rear. I found the car to be very easy to control although I had been expecting significant oversteer. Since the stagger of most 225/245 setups is only .5", it's not a huge deal to use 245 all the way around, especially since the effective contact patch on the front is apt to be a bit smaller anyways, due to the smaller wheel sucking in the sidewalls...

I'll be using 245s this year for sure.
well this is pretty much my exact setup and alignment. I just have the gendron. I think I may have to go with 245 all around and see how that works out.
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Old Dec 12, 2007 | 07:52 AM
  #20  
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Really good advice here. Was interested to hear about the rear lift even with the big bars. Given that this is with stock front springs and shocks, and what we have heard from the wing boys regarding the front end. Would we be better off going right to the CR or 08 front springs and an aftermarket bar?
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