Has anyone adjusted their camber on their own?
04-13-2004, 04:36 AM
#12
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Thanks Ken,
Actually this is the second shop that has told me that they can't get the camber and caster that I want.
I know the camber was there before because ever since they aligned it the last time, the rear end slips out with little effort. I thought it was my tires, but the rears still have plenty of tread left, so my only thought is that the camber is only half of what it used to be.
I guess I should have left well enough alone.
Actually this is the second shop that has told me that they can't get the camber and caster that I want.
I know the camber was there before because ever since they aligned it the last time, the rear end slips out with little effort. I thought it was my tires, but the rears still have plenty of tread left, so my only thought is that the camber is only half of what it used to be.
I guess I should have left well enough alone.
04-13-2004, 07:33 AM
#13
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Regarding several questions:
The rear is probably less difficult when working in the normal alignment range. It's still an inconvenient system.
Cars may vary, but I have never heard of one that could not get at least 2 degrees in the back.
Because we are aligning at the limit of adjustment, you probably have to choose between camber and toe. On whichever side is the limit for equal settings, the rear arm is set essentially as far out as you can get it. Moving the front arm out increases negative camber, but reduces toe.
With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, I recommend you suggest this procedure to the tech.
Set the rear arm adjustment all the way out.
Set the toe to spec with the front adjuster.
If there is too much camber, then you are lucky and can adjust where you want it.
If you want more camber, then you will have to give up some toe to get it.
Be sure to check both sides before doing final tweaks. One or the other will probably come out less. Most people will choose to limit the other to match (important with toe, not so much with camber).
Gregg
The rear is probably less difficult when working in the normal alignment range. It's still an inconvenient system.
Cars may vary, but I have never heard of one that could not get at least 2 degrees in the back.
Because we are aligning at the limit of adjustment, you probably have to choose between camber and toe. On whichever side is the limit for equal settings, the rear arm is set essentially as far out as you can get it. Moving the front arm out increases negative camber, but reduces toe.
With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, I recommend you suggest this procedure to the tech.
Set the rear arm adjustment all the way out.
Set the toe to spec with the front adjuster.
If there is too much camber, then you are lucky and can adjust where you want it.
If you want more camber, then you will have to give up some toe to get it.
Be sure to check both sides before doing final tweaks. One or the other will probably come out less. Most people will choose to limit the other to match (important with toe, not so much with camber).
Gregg
04-13-2004, 07:41 AM
#14
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Caster comment suggests you are talking about the front, but then you describe rear slipping out and rear camber. Clarify?
Insufficient rear toe in, or worse toe out, can cause rear to slide out easily and unpredictably.
Gregg
. [QUOTE]Originally posted by PENROD
Thanks Ken,
Actually this is the second shop that has told me that they can't get the camber and caster that I want.
I know the camber was there before because ever since they aligned it the last time, the rear end slips out with little effort.
Insufficient rear toe in, or worse toe out, can cause rear to slide out easily and unpredictably.
Gregg
. [QUOTE]Originally posted by PENROD
Thanks Ken,
Actually this is the second shop that has told me that they can't get the camber and caster that I want.
I know the camber was there before because ever since they aligned it the last time, the rear end slips out with little effort.
04-13-2004, 07:43 AM
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Yeah, they explained the same thing to me and got another .1 degree or so, but still couldn't get it to -2.0 minimum. I know I had it set at -2.2 previously and I haven't wrecked it or altered the suspension in any way.
I'll just keep shopping around.
I'll just keep shopping around.
04-13-2004, 07:58 AM
#16
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I'm well out also. I go to a town of about 15,000, 25 miles away for most stuff that I can't do. Fortunately I have found that it's too far out for anyone to depend on getting to a city, so the town is self sufficient on services, and small enough that word gets around fast about poor work.
There is usually at least one guy in town that does what I'm after, and is usually good at it.
Tend to be less formal as well. The manager at the alignment place had other stuff to do, and no one was in line behind me, so he let me fiddle on my own, once he saw I was competent.
I do have to go 60 miles or so for a Honda or Mazda dealer, but I can get parts from internet order that aren't at Autozone or Walmart.
Gregg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RED MX5
I guess I need to get out and see if I can convince one of the owners to rent me some time on the machine during off hours.
There is usually at least one guy in town that does what I'm after, and is usually good at it.
Tend to be less formal as well. The manager at the alignment place had other stuff to do, and no one was in line behind me, so he let me fiddle on my own, once he saw I was competent.
I do have to go 60 miles or so for a Honda or Mazda dealer, but I can get parts from internet order that aren't at Autozone or Walmart.
Gregg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RED MX5
I guess I need to get out and see if I can convince one of the owners to rent me some time on the machine during off hours.
04-13-2004, 08:06 AM
#17
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All I can think of is carefully check all the components for damage or wear. This could require loosening removing mounting bolts. A pothole or rock hit might go unnoticed. A bushing or ball joint could be loose or worn.
I once saw a post on cracks in the frame near arm mounts, though I think that was in front.
Gregg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by PENROD
Yeah, they explained the same thing to me and got another .1 degree or so, but still couldn't get it to -2.0 minimum.
I once saw a post on cracks in the frame near arm mounts, though I think that was in front.
Gregg
[QUOTE]Originally posted by PENROD
Yeah, they explained the same thing to me and got another .1 degree or so, but still couldn't get it to -2.0 minimum.
04-13-2004, 09:43 AM
#20
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Oh yeah I should add we occasionally "string" my car to make sure we haven't introduced and thrust.
Stringing requires putting the car centered in a string box so you can measure the toe of each wheel instead of just toe.
Stringing requires putting the car centered in a string box so you can measure the toe of each wheel instead of just toe.