Hawk pads
I'd agree with most your sentiments, rrthorne8. As much as I like the performance of the Hawk pad, I do have a couple sets of wheels which have now been delegated 'track only' wheels due to brake dust corrosion and my laziness to clean them regularly!
We'll see, I might give the cobalts a try sometime this year. Do the cobalts give you any better pad life than the other pads? I not worried about rotor life, since they will always crack before they get too thin. Actually, the wearing away of the surface cracks seems to help extend rotor life, I think.
We'll see, I might give the cobalts a try sometime this year. Do the cobalts give you any better pad life than the other pads? I not worried about rotor life, since they will always crack before they get too thin. Actually, the wearing away of the surface cracks seems to help extend rotor life, I think.
This is an interesting discussion. I've always ran Hawk HT10/Plus F/R (HPDE only) which seems to work good for my set up which is pretty much stock: Koni Yellow/s-tech, Dunlop Direzza
Need new pads this season and I'm not against trying something new.
Need new pads this season and I'm not against trying something new.
We have found the DTC-60 front and HT-10 rear to be an awesome combination on these cars. If the car is set up well and has a wing the DTC-60 in the rear is the best combination. The DTC-70 is a great compound, however it is significantly more expensive and I don't feel it is worth the extra expense on these cars. more suited for a heavier car. The DTC-60 seems to last a bit longer as well. The Blue is old technology and does not provide the performance that the DTC-60 does. The blue compound can fade and if run too hot does become abrasive on the rotor and creates a lot of dust from the rotor.
Thank you,
Jay Andrew-Owner
Andrew Racing
Thank you,
Jay Andrew-Owner
Andrew Racing
Hawk Blues have the worst dust I've ever encountered and they're *extremely* harsh on rotors when cold. I don't even think Hawk should be selling them anymore.
Hawk DTC-series pads are completely different and I've been an enthusiastic user of them on my S2000 racecar and Time Trial Mitsu Evo. The DTC60 dust is easy to wash off and they're easy on rotors. It can be driven on the street to and from the track.
Hawk DTC-series pads are completely different and I've been an enthusiastic user of them on my S2000 racecar and Time Trial Mitsu Evo. The DTC60 dust is easy to wash off and they're easy on rotors. It can be driven on the street to and from the track.
the Cobalt pads seem to last longer then the rest i have tried.
The DTC-70's came in last, operating temp window was too narrow, pads too cold on street and too hot on track is my guess.
DTC-60's came 3rd, good for autox temps.
carbotech 10's 2nd
cobalt 1st but not by much more then carbotech, however there bite and release seemed much better.
The DTC-70's came in last, operating temp window was too narrow, pads too cold on street and too hot on track is my guess.
DTC-60's came 3rd, good for autox temps.
carbotech 10's 2nd
cobalt 1st but not by much more then carbotech, however there bite and release seemed much better.
Last year I had the Hawk HPS' on my car. When we were at the 1st Blytheville NT, we couldn't get the car to whoa down hardly at all. We fussed with the braking issue for several events. To tell you how hard we were mashing on the braking pedal, we bent the pedal assembly.
We replaced booster, added SS lines, complete fluid flush, and it only nibbled at the issue. On the drive to the Toledo NT, I just picked up some OEM pads, and Mark installed them in paddock. I went to test 'em out and bed them in, I was so accustomed to the HPS' that I about ate the steering wheel when I pressed the brake pedal!! After I gained my composure, I giggled like a girl.
Unfortunately at the time, I did not know the assembly was bent, and I struggled not hitting the go fast peddle at the same time as the brakes. IMO, that and me turning the car off with my knee on the last element cost me a trophy at Toledo. Such as life!
Long story short... I will not be using the HPS' for autocross purposes.
-D
We replaced booster, added SS lines, complete fluid flush, and it only nibbled at the issue. On the drive to the Toledo NT, I just picked up some OEM pads, and Mark installed them in paddock. I went to test 'em out and bed them in, I was so accustomed to the HPS' that I about ate the steering wheel when I pressed the brake pedal!! After I gained my composure, I giggled like a girl.
Unfortunately at the time, I did not know the assembly was bent, and I struggled not hitting the go fast peddle at the same time as the brakes. IMO, that and me turning the car off with my knee on the last element cost me a trophy at Toledo. Such as life!Long story short... I will not be using the HPS' for autocross purposes.
-D
Kinda related but sorta off topic. I installed some yellow stuffs yesterday and had to take a substantial amount off the tabs to get em in the clips. More than just paint. That makes me mad.
We have found the DTC-60 front and HT-10 rear to be an awesome combination on these cars. If the car is set up well and has a wing the DTC-60 in the rear is the best combination. The DTC-70 is a great compound, however it is significantly more expensive and I don't feel it is worth the extra expense on these cars. more suited for a heavier car. The DTC-60 seems to last a bit longer as well. The Blue is old technology and does not provide the performance that the DTC-60 does. The blue compound can fade and if run too hot does become abrasive on the rotor and creates a lot of dust from the rotor.
Thank you,
Jay Andrew-Owner
Andrew Racing
Thank you,
Jay Andrew-Owner
Andrew Racing
Do you think that HP+ will be enough in the back with DTC60's in the front?
Running front ducts, no wing and RS3 tires.
Not tried the Hawk pads myself. but I can say Carbotech makes amazing brakes. The xp8 dusts a pretty good bit and can be noisy if not bedded right. They have GREAT cold bite on the street (sometimes too much and even activate the ABS). a huge plus is that the dust is very easy to get off with just dome detail spray and pretty sure it's not corrosive either. On the track they are amazing. I had no fade.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrcbr600
S2000 Racing and Competition
9
Jan 12, 2011 09:59 AM
LostMotion
Archived Member S2000 Classifieds and For Sale
2
Aug 16, 2008 01:18 PM






