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Help with oversteer on negative cambered corners

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #1  
thanasis11's Avatar
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Default Help with oversteer on negative cambered corners

I have a problem with on throttle oversteer on low speed corner exits and turning into slightly negatively cambered turns. This also happens while driving on the street but to a much lesser extend since i dont drive like a nutcase on the streets.

Setup:
AP1- stock engine
Tein monoflex coilovers
17x9 6ULRs with 255/40/17 RS3 all around
apr gtc 200 wing
megan racing rear toe control arms

Alignment:
Front: 2 deg of negative camber
0 toe

rear 2.6 deg camber
Toe in the rear is set to 1/3rd of the toe in of UK alignment specs.

This behaviour started after i changed my alignment settings from UK spec to the current ones. I can blame the lack of rear toe in
but this has saved me alot of money on having to buy new tires every 8-10 months. I dont have a problem controlling the car but im definitely slower.

I could remove the rear sway to get some more rear grip but i really dont want to do that. Any thoughts?

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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From: Israel
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what's your Monoflex settings?
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 11:10 AM
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From: vero beach
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bigger front sway bar
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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What he said ^^^. Bigger front sway bar.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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Also can turn down the rear neg camber to -2.0 to flatten your contact patch if you're doing a lot of street driving.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #6  
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From: weston
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More rear tire in will not harm tires. Bigger bar and mire rear toe in and less rear camber are your answer. Your frt zero toe will cause more tire wear than rear toe in

Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by thanasis11
I have a problem with on throttle oversteer on low speed corner exits and turning into slightly negatively cambered turns. This also happens while driving on the street but to a much lesser extend since i dont drive like a nutcase on the streets.

Setup:
AP1- stock engine
Tein monoflex coilovers
17x9 6ULRs with 255/40/17 RS3 all around
apr gtc 200 wing
megan racing rear toe control arms

Alignment:
Front: 2 deg of negative camber
0 toe

rear 2.6 deg camber
Toe in the rear is set to 1/3rd of the toe in of UK alignment specs

This behaviour started after i changed my alignment settings from UK spec to the current ones. I can blame the lack of rear toe in
but this has saved me alot of money on having to buy new tires every 8-10 months. I dont have a problem controlling the car but im definitely slower.

I could remove the rear sway to get some more rear grip but i really dont want to do that. Any thoughts?
Just want to ask, what are your ride height settings?

I run about the same toe in as you do and don't have that issue
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:03 AM
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thanasis11's Avatar
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Monoflex settings are 10 clicks from hardest front, 12 clicks for rear.


Why would I want to mess with the front sway bar? The front end is fine. I dont want to remove grip from the front.


Ride height is set to about 1.5 fingers front gap, 2 fingers rear gap measured from tire to fender
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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Measure your ride height from the top of the fender to the center of the wheel.

Adding a larger front sway will stabilize the rear. The front sway will keep the front from rotating as much, therefore keeping the rear wheels planted instead of picking up the inside wheel on corners. Adding too much front bar can cause unwanted understeer, I recommend the Gendron since it's adjustible.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by thanasis11
Monoflex settings are 10 clicks from hardest front, 12 clicks for rear.


Why would I want to mess with the front sway bar? The front end is fine. I dont want to remove grip from the front.
I agree, it’s a band aid, removing grip up front to re balance the car is the thought, but your still REMOVING grip. Best option is to leave the front alone and INCREASE grip in the rear. There are several ways you can go about this. Id say adding more toe in back closer to the UK alignment you had would make good sense since you know this effected it, sometimes you have to make compromises in tire life to get the performance you want. A bit less camber in he rear, which was mentioned, or possibly a bit less tire pressure. Softening the rear can help as well, so if you’re running any pre load on the rear spring, you can lesson this. Lesson the damping in the rear can help. Replacing the rear sway bar. All those things can add traction, but at the sacrifice of some car control which again is the compromise, so I try to keep this in mind. Getting some wider tires out back and forego the non stagger set up, which is my favorite idea and one I employ.

There is no cookie cutter set up that works best, especially if your still utilizing factory sway bars, depending on the MY, they are all different weights and bias front to rear. As an example, someone with a 00-01 car like myself, it came with the stiffest rear sways out of the 00-09 set, and are stiffer then they are up front, so a non staggered set up on my car would be compromised for me, to have the balance I want, more rear tire is the easy solution.
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