Help with oversteer on negative cambered corners
ZDan hates rear toe-in so he will be reluctant to suggest the OP go back to a more normal S2000 toe setting. Other than that I agree with his handling analysis above.
I would suggest the OP go back to the toe-in he had before the problem arose. If there's still oversteer then consider a stiffer front sway bar.
Many of us believe the S2000 does handle better overall with the stock toe-in setting. For my AP1 that's 0.25 inch total rear toe-in. It's different for the AP2. I've tried less toe-in but me and my car are quicker on track with 0.20 to 0.25 inch total toe-in.
I would suggest the OP go back to the toe-in he had before the problem arose. If there's still oversteer then consider a stiffer front sway bar.
Many of us believe the S2000 does handle better overall with the stock toe-in setting. For my AP1 that's 0.25 inch total rear toe-in. It's different for the AP2. I've tried less toe-in but me and my car are quicker on track with 0.20 to 0.25 inch total toe-in.
You kept on inssiting that a stiffer front sway as "taking away front grip". That is not a complete characterization of what adding a stiffer front sway does. It will ADD REAR GRIP. Which is what the OP needs.
I'm not doing that, haven't done that!
ACK, no! Adding rear toe, now THAT is a Band-Aid, and a piss-poor one at that. Having the rears grind away against each other all the time is a HORRIBLE idea. It *can* in limited use give more "stability", but so can dragging an anchor from the back of the car.
MUCH better to balance the handling via other methods than to add a lot of drag-adding, wear-inducing rear toe-in.
Again, you suggest that modding one end doesn't affect the other. It *does*. A stiffer front sway will ADD grip to the rear. I'd also suggest more front camber as the outside front will be shouldering more of the cornering load. Ultimately, the best setup should have more front than rear camber.
Chrissakes don't just add a ton of rear toe-in. Ultimately, that's *throwing away grip* working the rears against each other to some degree, adding drag, and WASTING tire life.
Its very simple. As a base platform, stiffer rear sway and weaker front sway biases traction to the front making the car tail happy/loss of traction fist at the limit. Stiffer front sway and weaker rear holds the opposite true. Its proven in our very own car design between 00-01 ap1's and ap2's. You want to get into wheel lift and other variables to overcomplicate a simple issue, that’s your prerogative,
The best solution for the OP here as far as I see given his info is returning the rear toe more positive as it was previously,
MUCH better to balance the handling via other methods than to add a lot of drag-adding, wear-inducing rear toe-in.
I say let’s focus on the end of the car that is lacking first.
Chrissakes don't just add a ton of rear toe-in. Ultimately, that's *throwing away grip* working the rears against each other to some degree, adding drag, and WASTING tire life.
I do!
The only times either my S or my Z were near-undriveable handfuls on the track was when they had too much rear toe. On more than one occasion I've been at the track wondering wtf was wrong, only to find out later that the rear toe had either been incorrectly set too high by the alignment shop, or it had moved from lowish to highish over time.
For me, if a car *needs* a lot of rear toe to handle properly, it has other issues. The *optimal* setup should not require a ton of rear toe-in.
The only times either my S or my Z were near-undriveable handfuls on the track was when they had too much rear toe. On more than one occasion I've been at the track wondering wtf was wrong, only to find out later that the rear toe had either been incorrectly set too high by the alignment shop, or it had moved from lowish to highish over time.
For me, if a car *needs* a lot of rear toe to handle properly, it has other issues. The *optimal* setup should not require a ton of rear toe-in.
Just to play devils advocate - are you sure the alignment didn't make the car handle better and in doing so gave you more confidence - making you feel that you can power on in a corner early than you used to be able to? Just something to think about.
Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1357853016' post='22258959
ZDan hates rear toe-in
The only times either my S or my Z were near-undriveable handfuls on the track was when they had too much rear toe. On more than one occasion I've been at the track wondering wtf was wrong, only to find out later that the rear toe had either been incorrectly set too high by the alignment shop, or it had moved from lowish to highish over time.
For me, if a car *needs* a lot of rear toe to handle properly, it has other issues. The *optimal* setup should not require a ton of rear toe-in.
Concur totally
ZDan, could you give us a good description of your setup? Like ride height, springs, sway bars, shocks, shock settings and of course alignment settings to help us rear toe users figure out what we're doing wrong? Maybe I could pick up that 0.07 second I need for the Summit Point S2000 track record.
I thought the general consensus was that static toe in creates closer to zero dynamic toe. If you start at zero static toe in, you get dynamic toe out - which is what you don't want at high speeds on track. For reference, I run .2-.3 inch to total toe in (so very, very little), but I digress...
You have to have some positive rear toe on the s2000, because it sweeps negative as the suspension compresses, you can call that a band aid, but we didn’t design the car, its what we have to work with. Of course the stiffer your suspension the less wheel and toe movement, but then that has its compromises as well. I run what I feel is a good toe and that is on the low end of the spectom for stock. I would rather the tires "fight" a little bit in strait line and gain some predictability and stability in the turns as a consequence. I don’t like 0 toe sweeping to negative out back with 500whp.







dude Zdan with all due respect your way over complicating things.



