Help properly setting up rear bump steer kit
Hello all! I recently picked up a T1-r rear bump steer kit and before i install it I need some opinions on the spacers that come with it. My car is lowered about 1.5" - 1.75" in the rear. How should the spacers be arranged? What should i be shooting for? i.e.(should the bar be level to the ground or what?)
I've tried searching with not too much luck. Thanks.
I've tried searching with not too much luck. Thanks.
I will have to tackle this issue within the next couple of weeks, once I get my car back together. I've never done this myself, but from what I understand, it's going to be a trial and error process in order to get it correct. Others may have "hints" as to where to start (concerning the placement of the spacers), but I think in order to get it right, you're going to have to make adjustments, as every car and every setup is different.
The process as I understand it would go something like this:
1. Install the toe-arm (with the spacers positioned neutrally, or your "best guess")
2. Do a standard alignment
3. Remove the spring from your coilover, and reinstall (or compress the spring so that you can move the suspension freely)
4. Compress the suspension a measured distance and record the toe change at this point
5. Adjust the toe-arm spacers
6. Repeat step 4 - 5 as neccessary, compressing the suspension the same distance every time
7. Choose the spacer configuration that showed the smallest change in toe under compression
8. Reinstall your spring (or uncompress it) and then set your final alignment.
If anybody has any better methods or wants to correct me, I'd love to hear them, as I said I'm going to have to do this as well.
The process as I understand it would go something like this:
1. Install the toe-arm (with the spacers positioned neutrally, or your "best guess")
2. Do a standard alignment
3. Remove the spring from your coilover, and reinstall (or compress the spring so that you can move the suspension freely)
4. Compress the suspension a measured distance and record the toe change at this point
5. Adjust the toe-arm spacers
6. Repeat step 4 - 5 as neccessary, compressing the suspension the same distance every time
7. Choose the spacer configuration that showed the smallest change in toe under compression
8. Reinstall your spring (or uncompress it) and then set your final alignment.
If anybody has any better methods or wants to correct me, I'd love to hear them, as I said I'm going to have to do this as well.
Originally Posted by JstnRyan,Feb 28 2009, 12:48 AM
The process as I understand it would go something like this:
1. Install the toe-arm (with the spacers positioned neutrally, or your "best guess")
2. Do a standard alignment
3. Remove the spring from your coilover, and reinstall (or compress the spring so that you can move the suspension freely)
4. Compress the suspension a measured distance and record the toe change at this point
5. Adjust the toe-arm spacers
6. Repeat step 4 - 5 as neccessary, compressing the suspension the same distance every time
7. Choose the spacer configuration that showed the smallest change in toe under compression
8. Reinstall your spring (or uncompress it) and then set your final alignment.
1. Install the toe-arm (with the spacers positioned neutrally, or your "best guess")
2. Do a standard alignment
3. Remove the spring from your coilover, and reinstall (or compress the spring so that you can move the suspension freely)
4. Compress the suspension a measured distance and record the toe change at this point
5. Adjust the toe-arm spacers
6. Repeat step 4 - 5 as neccessary, compressing the suspension the same distance every time
7. Choose the spacer configuration that showed the smallest change in toe under compression
8. Reinstall your spring (or uncompress it) and then set your final alignment.
How would one go about checking the toe when compressing and releasing the shock? On an alignment machine?
Yes, the entire procedure should be done while the car is on the alignment machine, however if you do your own alignments, those other methods (string, laser, etc..) should work as well.
I did read one webpage somewhere that also offered winching your car to the floor, and having people sit on your bumper as alternative ways of compressing your suspension.
I did read one webpage somewhere that also offered winching your car to the floor, and having people sit on your bumper as alternative ways of compressing your suspension.
You'll find that if you lower the stock car that much and adjust nothing else, all the wheels will toe out a fair amount.
So the car is tuned to toe out under bump on all corners.
The oem toe arm sits about 2-3 degress down at the wheel end.
So the car is tuned to toe out under bump on all corners.
The oem toe arm sits about 2-3 degress down at the wheel end.
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