Help with track setup
First of all, I'm a track noob. I've done a couple of track days at SOW, but that's it. I'm looking to improve my setup. The car was originally a street daily driven car, but I've decided to make it a 75% track, 25% street car.
At the last track day, I noticed a lot of body roll from the car and mushy brakes. I'm assuming the body roll is because of the soft spring rates of my PSS9 coilovers. I'm looking to replace the coilovers with either just springs or a new set of track coilovers, and upgrade my brake pads and lines.
Here is my current setup:
- 03 S2000
- Greddy Ti-C single exhaust, Berk HFC, K&N drop-in
- OEM hardtop
- PSS9 coilovers
- GTC-200 wing
- 17x9.0 +63 CE28
- 255/40/17 NT05
- Project MU b-force brake pads all-around
- ATE blue fluid
- Whiteline x-brace
- 00-01 front sway bar
- AP2 (07) rear sway bar
- Megan BSK
- 2.25 deg. camber all around, 0 toe front, 1/8" rear, bsk max toe in curve
- mild right height drop (i can't really tell you how low. maybe the picture will help)
I'm looking to do this, please advise:
- 2.5" risers for wing
- KW V3 coilovers or HKS hipermax or just stiffer springs w/ PSS9
- ss brake lines
- Project Mu 999 race pads (I can get this for cheap)
- baffled oil pan
- catch can
I'm not looking into any specific class. I'm just going to do regular, fun track days.. at least for now. Please advise.
Thanks,
Jeff
At the last track day, I noticed a lot of body roll from the car and mushy brakes. I'm assuming the body roll is because of the soft spring rates of my PSS9 coilovers. I'm looking to replace the coilovers with either just springs or a new set of track coilovers, and upgrade my brake pads and lines.
Here is my current setup:
- 03 S2000
- Greddy Ti-C single exhaust, Berk HFC, K&N drop-in
- OEM hardtop
- PSS9 coilovers
- GTC-200 wing
- 17x9.0 +63 CE28
- 255/40/17 NT05
- Project MU b-force brake pads all-around
- ATE blue fluid
- Whiteline x-brace
- 00-01 front sway bar
- AP2 (07) rear sway bar
- Megan BSK
- 2.25 deg. camber all around, 0 toe front, 1/8" rear, bsk max toe in curve
- mild right height drop (i can't really tell you how low. maybe the picture will help)
I'm looking to do this, please advise:
- 2.5" risers for wing
- KW V3 coilovers or HKS hipermax or just stiffer springs w/ PSS9
- ss brake lines
- Project Mu 999 race pads (I can get this for cheap)
- baffled oil pan
- catch can
I'm not looking into any specific class. I'm just going to do regular, fun track days.. at least for now. Please advise.
Thanks,
Jeff
What are the spring rates on the Bilsteins?
You probably want to step up to a more aggressive / more track oriented brake pad. I hear the Project Mu 999 is good and the old stand by (Carbotech XP10 or XP8) is hard to beat on street tires. That should solve your pedal issues (as long as your getting a proper bleed to begin with).
On a side note; I've heard rumors and speculation that the stock lines are in fact SS but just wrapped in rubber. I think this is partly due to the fact that they do so well with the stock system. However I cut open one of my '03 lines to investigate and i found that they are not SS braided. Its not a bad move to upgrade to SS lines but probably not totally necessary if your on a budget.
A baffled pan in my opinion is cheap insurance but there has never been any evidence that motors have failed with or with out one.
Catch can is a must. Just buy the $13 ebay one, it works well and you can get all the tubing form HD.
-Rob
You probably want to step up to a more aggressive / more track oriented brake pad. I hear the Project Mu 999 is good and the old stand by (Carbotech XP10 or XP8) is hard to beat on street tires. That should solve your pedal issues (as long as your getting a proper bleed to begin with).
On a side note; I've heard rumors and speculation that the stock lines are in fact SS but just wrapped in rubber. I think this is partly due to the fact that they do so well with the stock system. However I cut open one of my '03 lines to investigate and i found that they are not SS braided. Its not a bad move to upgrade to SS lines but probably not totally necessary if your on a budget.
A baffled pan in my opinion is cheap insurance but there has never been any evidence that motors have failed with or with out one.
Catch can is a must. Just buy the $13 ebay one, it works well and you can get all the tubing form HD.
-Rob
Originally Posted by rob.ok,Sep 21 2009, 03:38 PM
What are the spring rates on the Bilsteins?
You probably want to step up to a more aggressive / more track oriented brake pad. I hear the Project Mu 999 is good and the old stand by (Carbotech XP10 or XP8) is hard to beat on street tires. That should solve your pedal issues (as long as your getting a proper bleed to begin with).
On a side note; I've heard rumors and speculation that the stock lines are in fact SS but just wrapped in rubber. I think this is partly due to the fact that they do so well with the stock system. However I cut open one of my '03 lines to investigate and i found that they are not SS braided. Its not a bad move to upgrade to SS lines but probably not totally necessary if your on a budget.
A baffled pan in my opinion is cheap insurance but there has never been any evidence that motors have failed with or with out one.
Catch can is a must. Just buy the $13 ebay one, it works well and you can get all the tubing form HD.
-Rob
You probably want to step up to a more aggressive / more track oriented brake pad. I hear the Project Mu 999 is good and the old stand by (Carbotech XP10 or XP8) is hard to beat on street tires. That should solve your pedal issues (as long as your getting a proper bleed to begin with).
On a side note; I've heard rumors and speculation that the stock lines are in fact SS but just wrapped in rubber. I think this is partly due to the fact that they do so well with the stock system. However I cut open one of my '03 lines to investigate and i found that they are not SS braided. Its not a bad move to upgrade to SS lines but probably not totally necessary if your on a budget.
A baffled pan in my opinion is cheap insurance but there has never been any evidence that motors have failed with or with out one.
Catch can is a must. Just buy the $13 ebay one, it works well and you can get all the tubing form HD.
-Rob
345lbs + 85lb helper front / 285lbs rear
Oops, yea I meant the PMu 999. I'll probably go with those since I can get them for dirt cheap, and I'll do some research on that Ebay catch can.

Thanks for the pointers.
- Jeff
MOAR camber, I run -2.5 front and -3 rear and my RE01R's have lasted two years. I have to brag on my T1R Bmax 52's, very streetable 12kg springs, if you want to eliminate body roll I'd look into at least the rear RCA's. I'm running CR sway bars. RCA's eliminated some body roll from my car with the T1R coilovers. I am thinking of going to 14kg Front and 16kg Rear springs if the RCA's didnt do the trick, next track day is in october for me so gonna be a while til I find out. Good Luck!
had PSS9 and got rid of them after a track event. Dont bother changing the springs as Bilstein will tell you should not go up more that 20%.
Cobalt pads are ok, I am back to Carbotech.
Catch can for all AP1s. Dont hook up the distal end tubing to the intake, leave it open to air, otherwise it will act as vacuum and suck more oil into the can from the PVC.
I run -3 front and rear, but I run R comp.
And now you just need to do seat time and learn the car.
Cobalt pads are ok, I am back to Carbotech.
Catch can for all AP1s. Dont hook up the distal end tubing to the intake, leave it open to air, otherwise it will act as vacuum and suck more oil into the can from the PVC.
I run -3 front and rear, but I run R comp.
And now you just need to do seat time and learn the car.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by WynnS123,Sep 22 2009, 07:35 AM
So is a catch can not necessary for AP2?
Originally Posted by Turn-R-Us,Sep 21 2009, 10:00 PM
had PSS9 and got rid of them after a track event. Dont bother changing the springs as Bilstein will tell you should not go up more that 20%.
Cobalt pads are ok, I am back to Carbotech.
Catch can for all AP1s. Dont hook up the distal end tubing to the intake, leave it open to air, otherwise it will act as vacuum and suck more oil into the can from the PVC.
I run -3 front and rear, but I run R comp.
And now you just need to do seat time and learn the car.
Cobalt pads are ok, I am back to Carbotech.
Catch can for all AP1s. Dont hook up the distal end tubing to the intake, leave it open to air, otherwise it will act as vacuum and suck more oil into the can from the PVC.
I run -3 front and rear, but I run R comp.
And now you just need to do seat time and learn the car.



