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Help with track setup

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #1  
vstypicals's Avatar
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From: Porter Ranch, CA
Default Help with track setup

First of all, I'm a track noob. I've done a couple of track days at SOW, but that's it. I'm looking to improve my setup. The car was originally a street daily driven car, but I've decided to make it a 75% track, 25% street car.

At the last track day, I noticed a lot of body roll from the car and mushy brakes. I'm assuming the body roll is because of the soft spring rates of my PSS9 coilovers. I'm looking to replace the coilovers with either just springs or a new set of track coilovers, and upgrade my brake pads and lines.

Here is my current setup:

- 03 S2000
- Greddy Ti-C single exhaust, Berk HFC, K&N drop-in
- OEM hardtop
- PSS9 coilovers
- GTC-200 wing
- 17x9.0 +63 CE28
- 255/40/17 NT05
- Project MU b-force brake pads all-around
- ATE blue fluid
- Whiteline x-brace
- 00-01 front sway bar
- AP2 (07) rear sway bar
- Megan BSK
- 2.25 deg. camber all around, 0 toe front, 1/8" rear, bsk max toe in curve
- mild right height drop (i can't really tell you how low. maybe the picture will help)

I'm looking to do this, please advise:
- 2.5" risers for wing
- KW V3 coilovers or HKS hipermax or just stiffer springs w/ PSS9
- ss brake lines
- Project Mu 999 race pads (I can get this for cheap)
- baffled oil pan
- catch can

I'm not looking into any specific class. I'm just going to do regular, fun track days.. at least for now. Please advise.


Thanks,
Jeff

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #2  
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From: Fresno, CA
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What are the spring rates on the Bilsteins?

You probably want to step up to a more aggressive / more track oriented brake pad. I hear the Project Mu 999 is good and the old stand by (Carbotech XP10 or XP8) is hard to beat on street tires. That should solve your pedal issues (as long as your getting a proper bleed to begin with).

On a side note; I've heard rumors and speculation that the stock lines are in fact SS but just wrapped in rubber. I think this is partly due to the fact that they do so well with the stock system. However I cut open one of my '03 lines to investigate and i found that they are not SS braided. Its not a bad move to upgrade to SS lines but probably not totally necessary if your on a budget.

A baffled pan in my opinion is cheap insurance but there has never been any evidence that motors have failed with or with out one.

Catch can is a must. Just buy the $13 ebay one, it works well and you can get all the tubing form HD.


-Rob
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #3  
vstypicals's Avatar
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From: Porter Ranch, CA
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Originally Posted by rob.ok,Sep 21 2009, 03:38 PM
What are the spring rates on the Bilsteins?

You probably want to step up to a more aggressive / more track oriented brake pad. I hear the Project Mu 999 is good and the old stand by (Carbotech XP10 or XP8) is hard to beat on street tires. That should solve your pedal issues (as long as your getting a proper bleed to begin with).

On a side note; I've heard rumors and speculation that the stock lines are in fact SS but just wrapped in rubber. I think this is partly due to the fact that they do so well with the stock system. However I cut open one of my '03 lines to investigate and i found that they are not SS braided. Its not a bad move to upgrade to SS lines but probably not totally necessary if your on a budget.

A baffled pan in my opinion is cheap insurance but there has never been any evidence that motors have failed with or with out one.

Catch can is a must. Just buy the $13 ebay one, it works well and you can get all the tubing form HD.


-Rob
The spring rates on the Bilstein PSS9 are:
345lbs + 85lb helper front / 285lbs rear

Oops, yea I meant the PMu 999. I'll probably go with those since I can get them for dirt cheap, and I'll do some research on that Ebay catch can.

Thanks for the pointers.


- Jeff
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:18 PM
  #4  
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From: Marietta, Ga
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I have seen the oem brake line fittings separate at the track. I upgraded to stainless the week after!
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #5  
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From: Lexington, Ky
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MOAR camber, I run -2.5 front and -3 rear and my RE01R's have lasted two years. I have to brag on my T1R Bmax 52's, very streetable 12kg springs, if you want to eliminate body roll I'd look into at least the rear RCA's. I'm running CR sway bars. RCA's eliminated some body roll from my car with the T1R coilovers. I am thinking of going to 14kg Front and 16kg Rear springs if the RCA's didnt do the trick, next track day is in october for me so gonna be a while til I find out. Good Luck!
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 09:00 PM
  #6  
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had PSS9 and got rid of them after a track event. Dont bother changing the springs as Bilstein will tell you should not go up more that 20%.

Cobalt pads are ok, I am back to Carbotech.

Catch can for all AP1s. Dont hook up the distal end tubing to the intake, leave it open to air, otherwise it will act as vacuum and suck more oil into the can from the PVC.

I run -3 front and rear, but I run R comp.

And now you just need to do seat time and learn the car.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Turn-R-Us,Sep 21 2009, 11:00 PM
Catch can for all AP1s.
So is a catch can not necessary for AP2?
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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usually not. They have a different PVC which prevent the blow by.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #9  
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From: Emmett
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Originally Posted by WynnS123,Sep 22 2009, 07:35 AM
So is a catch can not necessary for AP2?
It still is although it's better than the AP1 the AP2's still needs it. I tried crank vents hoping that would help which it did but I still give out the smoke signals so I'm going to install a catch can.. I've had it so bad that the car lost power coming out of a corner and that stopped with the crank vents but the smoke continues..
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #10  
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From: Emmett
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Originally Posted by Turn-R-Us,Sep 21 2009, 10:00 PM
had PSS9 and got rid of them after a track event. Dont bother changing the springs as Bilstein will tell you should not go up more that 20%.

Cobalt pads are ok, I am back to Carbotech.

Catch can for all AP1s. Dont hook up the distal end tubing to the intake, leave it open to air, otherwise it will act as vacuum and suck more oil into the can from the PVC.

I run -3 front and rear, but I run R comp.

And now you just need to do seat time and learn the car.
What didn't you like about the Cobalts? I was going to try them out next from Carbotechs
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